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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally decided to give the wagon it's own thread.

Anyway, i flew interstate to pick this up a few months back now off a mechanic who told me it had a blown motor. It's one of the tidiest original wagons i've seen in Australia. They're super rare here, and only came in one trim spec (the RTX - 4wd twin carb, manual only and all came with manual mirrors/steering/windows but an electric sunroof) and were only sold between 88 and 89. Some pics from my 10/10 stunner combo of a friend who went to look at it for me before i flew down:







When me and my mate arrived, the thing damn fired right up. I checked over it and the oil level was really high, but apart from that everything else looked really well serviced. So we took off heading back north on our 12 hour drive home.



We made it about 15 minutes in before it started pumping bulk oil smoke out the back. Not a good start, haha. So i pulled into a local parts shop and did a kerbside oil change, I was banking on the culprit being the oil level causing it to burn:



Luckily it ran mint after that, and it was literally smooth sailing for the remaining 11hrs and 45mins haha.





I haven't bought licence plates for it yet, but i'm thinking EEP055 to match the theme i've got going with my other ED/EF's haha. It's a shame that i'll lose the originally issued licence plate because it's registered interstate.
 

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89 EF 4wd sedan
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've lived with the wago for a few months now and got to know it's flaws and figure out what my goals are with it. I've decided i want to spec it similarly to a RTI trim (same spec as my white sedan) which means EFI, 1.6L and electric everything. The factory carb setup is suffering from the typical cold start issues that are starting to plague ED's over here, and it really needs the extra displacement of the 1.6 (currently 1.5) to get it moving.

So i've started hoarding parts and will dive into the conversion in the coming weeks/months. So far i found a set of CRX alloys for it, which were actually a factory option for the wagon, and i think they look mint:



Over the christmas break me and my mate road tripped back down interstate to pick up a motor from a Concerto that another mate was wrecking (pictured here in his shed... only pic i have of it lol):



These come with a d16z3 which is basically a D16a6 but with a unique head casting that has provisions for a mechanical fuel pump which is left unmachined (because they're EFI). They're good for 88kw/120hp, which i think is a little higher rated compared to the US d16's because they came with a high flowing 4-2-1 header. Trouble is, my wagon has the 4-1 header which would mean it would be rated the same as the US's D16a6 108hp, because Concertos high flow header does not clear the RT transfer case. Luck was on my side however, as an RT specific 4-2-1 factory header popped up on Yahoo auction japan which shifts the 2-1 assymetrically to one side to clear the gearbox and boost power by +12hp.

I borrowed a trailer and we hit the road, of course it felt poetic to take the wagon on the adventure to pick up it's new heart:



Before we left i checked over the coolant lines, the timing belt and water pump and everything looked mint. Despite being nearly 40°C it did the 7 hour trip down without a hiccup. I parked it up next to another mates ED sedan that he bought for 100 bucks haha:



Wasn't long after that we pulled all the bits out of the Concerto:



Having a hoist certainly makes short work of things. It's a shame these Concerto's are mostly used as parts cars here, they're actually quite well built compared to the ED. Far more solid feeling, and unique. Anyway, loaded UP:



Tell you what, loaded up with 2 people on board and a boot full of parts, this little 1.5 was working HARD hahaha.





Also there is SO MUCH GLASS in these little things, you can literally not escape from the sun. I brought along a bunch of rags to use while we were ripping the motor out, and we ended up wearing the rags because they were long sleeves and protected our arms from the sun lol. AC + tint is going to be a must when this thing gets back on the road.



Anyhow, watch this space as i start cleaning up the motor and getting the bits together to swap her in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Started the tear down to inspect what kind of condition she's in, tidy it up and push fresh seals through it. The motor had been sitting for a few years, and the oil that came out of it was pretty rank, but i poured some fresh oil through it a few times and its draining fine and ran clear eventually. I'll be pulling the sump to swap the pickup/sump for an RT4WD unit to clear the new 4-2-1 header i've got on the way so i'll know the pickup will be clean.

I can see it's got an aftermarket head gasket on it, but i think i'm just going to get it running and see how it goes before i pump too much money into pulling / rebuilding the head. I was told it ran fine, but the car it was in was just a parts car so the new owner wasn't really paying a whole lot of attention to the condition before it started getting pulled apart.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So i've been hoarding parts and getting ready for this swap:



Hopefully get stuck into it soon, but in the meantime i picked up this EF steering wheel:






Obviously it had seen better days, but i took it in to get the leather repaired (not wrapped) and i was flawed at how good of a job they did:





Stoked with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Spent a day ripping in this weekend, I wanted to get the manual steering rack out to swap it with the track POS next weekend (track POS currently has power steering). I'll also pickup the engine hoist while im at my mates place too to yank her out.







Hopefully start freshening up the motor through the week if i cbf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finished off the motor last weekend. I decided not to go full ham on the resto as i'm not really sure what the condition of the motor is like, and i'm also keen to get it driving again. If it turns to be solid then i might get the valve cover re powdercoated and the intake bead blasted etc.

For now though, just fresh seals:







I also came across something new to me. In Australia, all our 1.6L ED's were either DOHC or 1.5L SOHC, this 1.6 SOHC motor is a bit of a rarity and really, the first time i've gotten to work on one from this era. When i was doing the timing belt i could not for the life of me get the cam gear timing marks to sit flat against the head, it was either half a tooth off one way or half a tooth off the other. Checked the USDM CRX workshop manual - nothing listed there:





Dusted off a Concerto workshop manual (the car this came from) and realised that the SOHC 1.6's have a different timing mark at around 7oclock on the cam gear that aligns with the back timing cover. (obscured in the photo above by the mount post). Are all you guise d16a6s the same?

137886
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just imagine the headache of a block with the stamp so worn its illegible, a d15 back plate and a y7 head with an unmarked knock off cam gear, customer complaint "low power"🤬😱
No thanks!

Todays efforts, power steering pump overhaul:

 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
:poop:

Spent the remainder of the weekend pulling the fuel tank out and rinsing it out. It's carby (so no in tank fuel pump), I'm going to pillage a DA tank that i've got laying around and try and hybrid a solution. Kinda nervous to take an angle grinder to a fuel tank, how many times would you guys rinse it out and how long would you leave it air dry for? Haha.

Maybe next pic i post wont have any eyebrows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks for the tips. I'll probably let it sit in the sun with all the holes opened up for a week or so just to be double safe after rinsing with soapy water. I love reading forum posts about welding to fuel tanks, it's 50% "She'll be right, i welded on a fuel tank that was still half full - no worries do it all the time", and 50% "I rinsed it out 100x and it blew up and i died".

It's not ideal, but farout.. The alternative is to find someone who would ship a tank from the US.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
When i was pulling the booster/master, i noticed the master had leaked and lifted the paint under the booster:



Luckily it was all pretty surface:





I had to dig out the OEM body sealant to get underneath it and treat the metal, so i primed the exposed/treated steel and reapplied body sealer to keep water out of that crevice.





There's a mask line on the frame rail and under the booster that i probably should've tried harder to avoid, but i don't think it'll be noticeable once everything's back in.

Started gutting the doors to prepare for the power mirror/power window conversion, pulled the door cards off and noticed they still have that OEM dust shield in place... Killed me having to take them off haha:

 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So I bought some wagon power mirrors, originally i was going to use a spare set of sedan power mirrors i had to convert the manual wagon mirrors. But i realised that in order to get it working, i'd need to use the sedan mirror caps which were in trash condition and i couldn't be bothered getting them painted.

So the new power mirrors rocked up, i bought a black set thinking that i'd be able to bolt them straight on. Turns out they weren't black because they were unpainted plastic like my ones, they were actually painted black. (new left, original right)



in the light it had a metallic fleck through it



Lame. So instead of bolting them on, i ended up swapping the power internals into my manual mirrors:



Another weird thing i've never noticed before, but the imported mirrors had proper convex glass, and the local mirrors had flat glass. Makes a HUGE difference in eliminating blind spots. Always wondered why the local ED's had 'shit mirrors'. This would be why (imported left/ local right):



Also converted a set of sedan power window regulators to fit the wagon:



Cleaned them up and gave them a fresh greasing and they run great.

Lastly i found some OEM speaker buckets for the front doors to suit a 16cm speaker up from the factory 12cm (4" to 6")

 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
So much time wasted doing dumb shit this weekend. For some reason the rear trans bracket on the RT civics always seizes in the trans, so i had to clean them up and antiseize them before reinstalling:







A mate came around and helped me wrangle the trans back onto the motor, only for me to forget that the flywheel inspection plate has to be attached to the motor before the two halves get put together... So took them back apart, installed the inspection plate and put them back together again and dropped it in:



Slowly attaching mounts/intermediate shaft, shift linkages etc:



I thought i'd do something fun and mock up the airbox, only to find the carby chassis doesn't have a hole in the chassis rail for the resonator chamber... As you can see i've circled the problem



Me seeing other people on facebook doing mods to their OEM granny spec ED's



Me being a hypocrite and cutting up my own car







Anyway... I'm waiting on a wiring diagram to arrive for the concerto harness i'm running before i can do much else, the Concerto harness has massive door plugs that don't fit into the wagon doors, so i need to repin the wagon connectors onto them, but i need to know what all the wires do first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Looking for some input and opinions plz on some car audio ideas. Any audio buffs in here?

I bought this OEM stereo to get it back to an original look, bought it unknown condition and bench tested it yesterday and everything works:



So my system idea is this. OEM head unit, running to a 4 channel amp with high level inputs, and then to 4 x speakers (OEM only has two speakers). Haven't decided on brands or power outputs yet.

BUT. I thought i'd be able to plug in a bluetooth dongle into the back of this head unit into the DIN connector where the CD player input would usually go. However now that i'm actually thinking about it, i don't know if that's going to work. The head unit doesn't have an AUX/CD button to switch to, so i'm assuming it must automatically switch to CD input when the connected CD player is switched on, which makes it tricky for me to switch input from radio to bluetooth/aux input... I don't want to use a bluetooth casette tape or a bluetooth to FM frequency device. The quality on both are pretty average. Anyone played around with this stuff before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
That's the type of device i'm looking at but that's for newer head units with a harness plug connecting the head unit to the CD player, this uses a DIN connector which i haven't been able to find yet. Maybe i'll buy one of those for my EK though haha.

138039


You remove the block off cap to the left for CD player/equalizer and there's a din connector underneath (looks something like this but i can't remember the pin count):

138040


Since you're going to run the head unit speaker outputs to an amp of some kind, you could probably throw a switch between the speaker circuit up near the deck/head unit, to give you the ability to choose what feeds the amp.

Switch one way, and the factory head unit would feed the amp input... switch the other way, and you could have some kind of Bluetooth device that already has a small preamp built in to feed the amp.

Nice thing with Bluetooth stuff, is that volume control can be handled remotely, so your volume buttons on your phone could manage the output level to the amp, which would give you volume control :)

Then when you're not using Bluetooth, flip a switch and the factory head unit feeds the amp again.
That's an idea!

I received my wiring diagrams a couple of days back too, so went through and worked out the pinouts for swapping the door plugs on the concerto cabin harness with the wagon plugs:



EDIT:

Just found this:


Fark 137£ +35 shipping ... It'd wanna work
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Slowly making my way through the harness changes i need to make. Swapped the door plugs over and jumped the auto harness neutral safety. Still have to add the reverse light wiring and swap a couple more plugs over...zzz



Checkout how thick the Concerto loom (bottom) is compared to the wagon loom (above it) lol.
 
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