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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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:poop:

Spent the remainder of the weekend pulling the fuel tank out and rinsing it out. It's carby (so no in tank fuel pump), I'm going to pillage a DA tank that i've got laying around and try and hybrid a solution. Kinda nervous to take an angle grinder to a fuel tank, how many times would you guys rinse it out and how long would you leave it air dry for? Haha.

Maybe next pic i post wont have any eyebrows.
I've used a few can of brake clean before to spray fresh solvent down in there to absorb the old gasoline, drain what you can of the liquid, then place an old computer fan over the hole blowing (brushless, so no sparky) and let the breeze evaporate and push any fumes out the filler neck.

Let that run for a few hours, then grind and cut away!
 

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Since you're going to run the head unit speaker outputs to an amp of some kind, you could probably throw a switch between the speaker circuit up near the deck/head unit, to give you the ability to choose what feeds the amp.

Switch one way, and the factory head unit would feed the amp input... switch the other way, and you could have some kind of Bluetooth device that already has a small preamp built in to feed the amp.

Nice thing with Bluetooth stuff, is that volume control can be handled remotely, so your volume buttons on your phone could manage the output level to the amp, which would give you volume control :)

Then when you're not using Bluetooth, flip a switch and the factory head unit feeds the amp again.
 

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Couldn't believe, got bed ridden by a stomach bug on Friday arvo, pretty much ruined my whole weekend.

Managed to keep food down long enough to figure out that the front discs are close to being outside of spec limits (17.4mm measured against 17mm spec limit) - so i'll have to buy new discs.



Also figured i'd punch the fuel pump hanger hole in the fuel tank with any luck it'd put me out of my misery:





Survived another round though so resprayed my booster which the paint was lifting off because of a leaky master:



Also stared fabbing a fuel filter bracket for the firewall but ended up going back to bed. Zzz
Feel better dude, we need more civic porn from the southern hemisphere :)
 

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I did think about tapping and plugging it, but i'm not really sure what its purpose is. I thought maybe it served as some kind of fail safe, maybe if the line pressure is too high it allows brake fluid to bleed off so fluid doesn't bypass elsewhere (like the internal seals in the master?) I'm not really sure.

Maybe i'll dig a little deeper. Bloody hell.
If someone told me not to open a valve, id open it wondering what they were hiding lol

Depending on the OE, rebuilding proportioning valves is a proper service item.... maybe honda says not to do it for safety reasons? Maybe the corrosive nature of brake fluid on the steel spring and other pieces when it leaks, is reason enough that they dont want it refurbished? All speculation, but its probably this:

  • Honda: "The average ricer has a hard time keeping engines running right. Make notes all over the service manuals to keep their damn hands out of the brake hydraulics!"

Im sure you've done your due diligence and inspection on the valve and innards. If it looks straightforward on disassembly, it probably is. Refreshing the seals probably isnt a bad idea if everything else looks clean :)

Excuse me while i go disassemble my old prop valve out of curiosity...
 

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wtf, i did pull it apart and made a whole post about it but it appears to have been deleted. @slo_eg8 any idea where it's gone? I don't feel like typing it up again.

Was probably the most informative post id ever written lol
A whole post? Is this not it?

Automotive tire Musical instrument Font Circle Metal



If it is, then its in this thread, one page back lol.

If you made something else more in depth, ive personally not seen it. Not to sound stalkerish, but when you post stuff, i pay attention lol.
 

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Can you buy a new one?

Because your TXV has an equalizing line, there is no good way to really test it outside of a functioning system.

The equalizer line feeds vapor refrigerant pressure to the underside of the diaphragm. The bulb contains an external self contained refrigerant charge, which is used as a signal to feed pressure to the top.

Changes to the bulb temp influence the diaphragm direction, and the orifice metering size.

This is why the bulb must be placed upstream from the equalizing line fitting attachment on the evaporator.

The pressures above and below the diaphragm need to be pretty equal, with only small temp changes at the bulb being what ultimately controls the orifice size change.

But the equalizing line is also indirectly connected to the TXV outlet liquid line side, and so because these are technically connected, it is a bad idea to use water to flow through the TXV for testing.

No good way to really test em outside of a functioning, closed and properly charged system unfortunately :(

Usually what happens, is the bulb loses its charge over time, and TXV fails in fully open, which means liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator is not subject to an optimal pressure drop, resulting in ineffective cooling even though the evaporator might be flooded and evaporation is actually taking place.

The pressure/temperature relationship of refrigerants is a special one, and the TXV controls the optimal pressure drop of liquid entering the evaporator :)

A specific pressure drop AND a good supply of liquid refrigerant to flood the evaporator are both needed for good heat exchange to take place during evaporation from a liquid to a gas.
 

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Thanks for the break down! I can buy LHD ones for cheap, the only difference is the equalizing line comes out of the opposite side of the housing (the parts are mirrored). But i think i could clear a couple of fins where it would foul and it'd otherwise fit fine. It looks like the bulb and equalizer lines both need to be bent into place anyway.

View attachment 139030
That's what I would do in your situation :) I wouldn't want a 32+ year old TXV in there haha. Just be gentle with the bends on the TXV tubes, taking care to support the tubing length for any tight radius bends, and you should be OK.

Can't tell you how many times I've moved a 10+ year old TXV bulb SO gently out of the way just to reposition it or something, and heard "TSSSSSS....". The copper will corrode the most near solder joints and will be weakest there. But you should have no problems with a new one getting it to shape where you need it.

You could even bend the aluminum evaporator piping a tiny bit outward away from the coils. Just reinstall the old TXV, tighten the fittings a bit, and ever so gently pull it up and away from the coils to give yourself some more clearance for the equalization line, then with a bit of fins pushed out of the way with a screwdriver, you should be able to clearance enough for the LHD TXV :)
 

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I've got another set of injectors that i know where working good that i can throw on, but i was wondering can i just jump the injector by connecting it straight to 12v to see if it fires/clicks?
Yes! Just make sure you pulse either power or ground to the injector, rapidly so you can really hear the pintle click and get em exercised.

Dont hold solid power/ground on it for extended periods, it can overheat the coil when no fuel is flowing through it.
 

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That roadtrip me and my mate did to pick up the motor has scarred me. That was legit the hottest i've ever been in a vehicle, you just cant escape the sun with this much glass 😂
Had me dying laughing!

Tell me that wouldn't be the most badass chicken/meats rotisserie cooker, a wagon converted to cook foods.... all that glass to show off the slowly rotating meats.... mmmmm
 
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