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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Crazy idea popped into my head a minute ago:

If I was to go with the street legal in california edelbrock kit, and pick up say some forged pistons with the stock CR, along with eagle rods, do you guys think that with a second map programmed into the edelbrock piggyback system and more boost I could squeeze 300hp out?

Stock cam mind you.
My crazy idea is that I could pass the bar and all that fun stuff with the stock (for the turbo system) map and then when its fun time I could switch back to the other?
 

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I don't think the Edelbrock piggyback system is that tunable. You can, but I believe you have to have a "Missing Link" which aren't readily anymore. Turbod16.com used to have a ton of information about this. If it was possible, I would say it would be a great idea. I have considered this for my build as well.

On another note, I believe Eagle rods result in really low CR, depending on piston choice. Unless you get some sort of custom length rod (FJT rods, RC Autoworks, etc...)
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
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way better to run the usual hondata,ectune,neptune deal then a piggyback trust me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yeah but could you get the aftermarket ECU to pass smog? Also, what about running a y8 head on a y7 block?
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
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yeah but could you get the aftermarket ECU to pass smog? Also, what about running a y8 head on a y7 block?
yeah i dont know who told you its impossible. i have 2 friends that passed with hondata installed.
 

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I don't think the Edelbrock piggyback system is that tunable. You can, but I believe you have to have a "Missing Link" which aren't readily anymore. Turbod16.com used to have a ton of information about this. If it was possible, I would say it would be a great idea. I have considered this for my build as well.

On another note, I believe Eagle rods result in really low CR, depending on piston choice. Unless you get some sort of custom length rod (FJT rods, RC Autoworks, etc...)
He said he want stock cr forged piston with eagle rods eagle rods are the same length as stock .. .... you should build the motor slap on the kit using the recomended psi then bar it throw away the piggy back them get a real tune and crank the boost up
 

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Don't you need to run the Edlebrock piggyback to visually pass smog? Might not need to be totally hooked up/running and you can probably pass using a Hondata tune.

But I wouldn't bother with a forged bottom end with small GT28R. LS Rods + Stock Pistons + Good Tune = cheap/works.
 

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Finding bushings and getting them machined is a pain better to buy brand new eagles for at least vitara and custum legnth rod combo
 

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what yr? 96 and up will fail the obd2 scan of your using a different ecu so piggyback only for emission.
Also the piggyback that comes with the edelbrock isnt tuneable. I would use aem fic to tune and it will pass the obd2 scan check, the 50 state legal kit will pass the looks, and your tune will pass the sniffer.
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
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Finding bushings and getting them machined is a pain better to buy brand new eagles for at least vitara and custum legnth rod combo
what there not accessible from crower no more?. plus almost every machine shop i been to can do it. still think its the best bang for the buck plus over 300hp on the street to me is silly esp if its your daily. i mean depending on your resources then i totally understand why they might not be practical to you. just doesn't mean it would be practical for someone else is all im saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
He said he want stock cr forged piston with eagle rods eagle rods are the same length as stock .. .... you should build the motor slap on the kit using the recomended psi then bar it throw away the piggy back them get a real tune and crank the boost up
We have a winner.
Now the only concern I have is this:
I have a Y7.
Do you think that it would still be possible to make this thing work?
I went from wanting to build a drag car to something that would just be fun and have some get up in go in it. From what I have gathered, around 250hp=low 13 high 12 price range, reliable, good on gas, maintains traction so handling wont be like walking on ice with bowling shoes.

Would having a Y7 affect me much?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
As for the guts, I have a set of Vitaras on golden eagle rods. I'm going to get the vitara's coated with ceramic, put back into the engine and some how get the thing to run at the stock CR.

Do you think that a stage 1 cam (even though their kinda crappy) would help my cause a little?
 

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I had always heard that you have to run a stock ECU to get the engine BAR'd. Meaning, no piggy-backs or stand-alones of any sort.

This is the whole reason why the USDM P30 is such a hot commodity for people looking to BAR their B16's.

Of course, like anything BAR related...it all comes down to your individual REF. Some seem to be more lenient than others.
 

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dude i answered these same questions for you this morning. "time attack" build right> im about 99.9% sure they tell you what Ive told you to do already.


buy the kit pass ref/bar with the complete edelbrock kit. then after thats said and done build up on that kit to make it better and throw in your built motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Dude I haven't got the space or time for an extra motor, that is out of the question.

The worry is this: would that kit work on a y7 with out causing me an issue when I do have to go through those bastards?
And how much would that affect how much power I make ?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
dude i answered these same questions for you this morning. "time attack" build right> im about 99.9% sure they tell you what Ive told you to do already.


buy the kit pass ref/bar with the complete edelbrock kit. then after thats said and done build up on that kit to make it better and throw in your built motor.
I was fishing around the forums to see what I can find out.
But I think running a Y7, the best bet for me might just be to buy a DD, be happy with the quick little D I build, and call it a day.
 

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In CA, you could never mix and match heads and blocks and pass visual.... even though physically the y7 block is the same as a y8. However, you can interchange complete motors that were originally sold in the same year chassis without requiring to get it ref-ed. It sounds like you have a 96-00 civic. If so, yes you could build the block and keep the same compression and pass smog. The kit is only smog legal for Y8's not Y7's. So in your case you would have to get a complete Y8 long block and a Y8 ECU then install the edelbrock kit. You would have to get the sticker that has the CARB number.

The original LINKS piggy back controller on the edelbrock was tunable, but for 300 hp, you would require bigger secondary injectors. I heard at some point edelbrock started using a different piggyback. The kit comes with 19 lbs/hr secondary injectors. You'd have to get atleast 39 lbs/hr and retune the piggyback. I'm sure you've read and heard it before, using a piggyback is not the best way to run a turbo, but in CA to "pretend" to be CARB legal, that is the only way you can go(on OBD2 Cars that is). It sounds like kpro is another option, but I havent researched it enough to even suggest it.

Oh yeah and for 300 HP you will be pushing the GT28R to its limits and not in the efficiency range, so an upgrade to the GT28RS or GR2871R (which is not smog legal for our motors but they will never know) would be needed as well as the manual boost controller(which again makes it no longer smog legal, but if you do it right they will not be able to see it). Keep in mind the two turbos listed above can be purchased as direct bolt ons, but are very pricy when it comes to a normal D-series turbo build.
 
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