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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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It depends on your ability and tools, and your hardware/electronics store, also how much of a hurry you are in. Really only takes a safety pin or a paper clip to coax the pins out of the connector, then a source of the right pins (if they change from 1 plug to another), some patience to get them soldered or crimped on correctly if needed, and a pinout for the connectors to make sure everything gets put into the right spot.
 

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Post a picture of what your current distributor plugs look like, and we can help figure it out.

Possibly you are dealing with a pre-modified harness.
 

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Considering the wiring looks janky already (spade connectors), I would recommend finding the distributor harness online, whether it be OEM cut off several inches, or a conversion harness, and re-wire it into place.

It is very important the shielded ignition wires stay shielded.

So many random issues can be solved down the road, or even totally prevented, if teh wiring stays in good condition.


Solder the shielding together, you can use CCA cheapo speaker wiring as the "shielding" bridge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Considering the wiring looks janky already (spade connectors), I would recommend finding the distributor harness online, whether it be OEM cut off several inches, or a conversion harness, and re-wire it into place.

It is very important the shielded ignition wires stay shielded.

So many random issues can be solved down the road, or even totally prevented, if teh wiring stays in good condition.


Solder the shielding together, you can use CCA cheapo speaker wiring as the "shielding" bridge.
I agree on the janky-ness of the wiring done. The previous owners didn't know what they were doing. I do feel pretty confident in being able to properly rewire them. It wouldn't be to hard to de-pin the plugs/ wire from the obd1 harness and put then into the ond0 harness would it? Just gotta make sure they go into the correct place in the ecu correct?
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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That is the route I would go, replace that part of the harness all the way to the fenderwell connector.
 

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I am always a big supporter of depinning and repinning as needed.

Just do your due diligence and inspect the wiring first, as these are indeed old harness's
 

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If you add to the wiring, you could run the OBD2A d16y7 96-98 harness and ecu, which gives you diagnostics, but requires adding a second O2 and having a working evap and purge system.


Best to keep with the P06

a P74 from a nonvtec B18 integra 92-95 would run it, but would run rich. Even in closed loop after warming up, it would run a little rich, and possibly throw codes for having to yank fuel out.


Or just find any OBD1 ecu as a spare, chip it, find a base map, get a friend who is good with computers (aka comfortable and able to learn) and have him/her learn how to tweak the tune in micro adjustments to keep things smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
If you add to the wiring, you could run the OBD2A d16y7 96-98 harness and ecu, which gives you diagnostics, but requires adding a second O2 and having a working evap and purge system.


Best to keep with the P06

a P74 from a nonvtec B18 integra 92-95 would run it, but would run rich. Even in closed loop after warming up, it would run a little rich, and possibly throw codes for having to yank fuel out.


Or just find any OBD1 ecu as a spare, chip it, find a base map, get a friend who is good with computers (aka comfortable and able to learn) and have him/her learn how to tweak the tune in micro adjustments to keep things smooth.
Much easier to just stick with the p06.

Also, does anyone have a need for the ecu's I have. Because I clearly don't. Yall are more than welcome to them. I'll even ship them if need be
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Wouldn't the pm6 he already has run it with no resistor box, since he has the obd1 injectors? Has the cabin harness been converted to obd1 yet? Have you found a p06 yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Wouldn't the pm6 he already has run it with no resistor box, since he has the obd1 injectors? Has the cabin harness been converted to obd1 yet? Have you found a p06 yet?
I have not converted the cabin harness, still obd0. Was hoping to just run a jumper harness from obd0 to 1 for the ecu. I have found a p06 just waiting for it to arrive
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
So spark at all at the distributer. Took the cap and rotor off and checked the two connectors in the distributor and the negative bolt does not flash on and off when cranking

Also, that was with the pm5 ecu not the p06
 

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The pm5 is for the dpfi that you switched from, the pm6 is the mpfi ecu, try that one and see what happens, also the ignitor in the dist is one of the top causes for no spark on a Honda, competing with shot out coils, but if ground side of coil has no flash its generally the ignitor aka ICM( ignition control module). Is the engine light illuminating for 3 secs at key on now? That indicates fuel pump prime and operation of evil main relay that feeds +12v power to your sensors, injectors, ignition ect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
The pm5 is for the dpfi that you switched from, the pm6 is the mpfi ecu, try that one and see what happens, also the ignitor in the dist is one of the top causes for no spark on a Honda, competing with shot out coils, but if ground side of coil has no flash its generally the ignitor aka ICM( ignition control module). Is the engine light illuminating for 3 secs at key on now? That indicates fuel pump prime and operation of evil main relay that feeds +12v power to your sensors, injectors, ignition ect.
The only light on in the dash is the battery light. I was using the pm6 just typed the wrong one.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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If the orange engine light does not illuminate for 3 secs at key on there is an issue with your efi main relay, the ecu is not supplying 12v power to injectors, sensors, ignition components. It's just under the dash against driver side kick panel, has a brown(usually) connector going into it, bolted on with a single 10mm hex head bolt. It controls fuel pump prime and running, and 12v power to sensors, injectors and dist.

A common problem i run into sometimes is the thermostat ground being loose or disconnected, others include the ground wire to the ecu that activates the fuel pump side of the circuit worn out, and the power from underhood fuse block not seeing a full 12v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Say I wanted to rip all the wiring out of the car. Both engine and cabin harness and replace it with one from another car or online. What would be the easiest option. Grab another obd0 and change the injectors and dizzy or find an obd1 and adapt to that? At this point we don't know what the previous owner has cut/spliced and what wasn't
 

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Do able, but probably unnecessary, its likely one fuse or one plug unplugged somewhere, or again your efi main relay could be bad. There is a way to jumper them and delete with rocker switches and a momentary button for pump prime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
If the orange engine light does not illuminate for 3 secs at key on there is an issue with your efi main relay, the ecu is not supplying 12v power to injectors, sensors, ignition components. It's just under the dash against driver side kick panel, has a brown(usually) connector going into it, bolted on with a single 10mm hex head bolt. It controls fuel pump prime and running, and 12v power to sensors, injectors and dist.

A common problem i run into sometimes is the thermostat ground being loose or disconnected, others include the ground wire to the ecu that activates the fuel pump side of the circuit worn out, and the power from underhood fuse block not seeing a full 12v.
I'm assuming this is the main relay since it says 12v main relay
 

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