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d16z6 intake manifold destroys the d16y5. The OUTSIDE of the Y5 intake looks like a Y8, but that is where the simularities end. The Y5 is basically an OBD2 version of the d15b7 intake on the inside. Low end torque is the main design goal, which it does very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
94 d16z6 would be my pick. then when the y5 thats in the crx now goes you get vtec, good for an extra 17-20 hp. It also has the best intake manifold of the bunch, which will bolt up to your current y5 motor, along with the distributor to run multipoint injection. only issue is you will need a vtec ecu to run the z6 motor, or you can have your pm7 or 6 chipped and upgraded to run vtec. The extra wiring for vtec is 3 wires to add from the ecu connector to the passenger fender well connector in the engine bay.
So I have the y7 motor at the moment in the crx. I cant go to vtec because I have to stay within racing rules (they don't allow vtec or dohc in the class I'll be running) but I can run a different manifold as long as it isn't aftermarket and is "stock" I'm not looking to motor swap as of now but just to get the current y7 motor up and running for this race season that starts next month. The 93 has the b7 motor which if I remember correctly someone said to use that intake, swap to an obd1 and use a ecu p06 correct? Which I can hopefully grab all that from the 93 if thats all still intact there. Also, should u grab the distributor and harness from that 93? Will I have to do a little re-wiring to make it work going from a dpfi intake to a mpfi intake along with the ecu and distributor changing?
 

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the P06 that runs the d15b7 in factory trim will run the Y7 pretty well, you just need to make sure all your sensors are working properly and injectors are very clean, else you can run it a bit lean and hurt the engine.

Get a Denso primary O2 that matches the factory spec of the d15b7 car for best results. It is uber important to have a properly functioning O2 sensor in these cars, and they are VERY sensitive to clean good flowing injectors (spray versus dripping old clogged ones)


The d16z6 intake manifold is a great match to a Y7 running with b7 brains.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
the P06 that runs the d15b7 in factory trim will run the Y7 pretty well, you just need to make sure all your sensors are working properly and injectors are very clean, else you can run it a bit lean and hurt the engine.

Get a Denso primary O2 that matches the factory spec of the d15b7 car for best results. It is uber important to have a properly functioning O2 sensor in these cars, and they are VERY sensitive to clean good flowing injectors (spray versus dripping old clogged ones)


The d16z6 intake manifold is a great match to a Y7 running with b7 brains.
D16z6 intake (X)
P06 ecu (X)
Do I need to change anything else? Distributor? Anything?

P06 ecu
 

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P06 (d15b7) distributor should fit the d16y7 head no problem.

You will just need to make sure things are in correct timing using a timing gun and jumping the service 2wire plug together
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
P06 (d15b7) distributor should fit the d16y7 head no problem.

You will just need to make sure things are in correct timing using a timing gun and jumping the service 2wire plug together
I love it. Thank you guys for your help. Fingers crossed its running by the weekend🤞
 

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yes.
 

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You can certainly go to OBD1, but if you were using the d15b2's system with its 2 fuel injectors and reversed TPS, you are REQUIRED to convert the wiring FIRST to MPFI using the EX/SI componants underhood, THEN you can convert to OBD1.


The OBD1 conversions all assume you are already MPFI based on the civic ex and crx/civic SI d16a6 models.
 

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THere are SOME kits out there that lay this all out as a single step, so I think looking around is important before buying anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Update:: I pulled the intake, distributor and main engine wiring harness out of a '94 that had a D16z6 engine. I have yet to find a P06 ecu in the junk yard. I'm gonna try a few more tomorrow, if not I'll have to bite the bullet and order one.
 

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Were there no nonvtec 92-95 cars in your junkyard? usually the dx/lx civics out number the ex cars in any junkyard I have been to.
 

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Also, did you pull the strut tower harness out with the engine harness? tthe harness needs to get inside the car somehow, and extending all those wires its going to be a pain in the butt
 

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intake runner, air temp sensor

black valve with vent, purge valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
intake runner, air temp sensor

black valve with vent, purge valve
Thank you

So, I have the injectors wired into the harness. I replaced a couple broken odds an ends. I have one wire running from the passenger side (yellow w/red stripe) that ends in the middle of the intake. Then I have a wire (yellow w/green stripe) that is coming from the driver side and ends in the same area. They were already cut and I have no idea what they are. I am missing the map sensor plug in this harness.

So, I have the injectors wired into the harness. I replaced a couple broken odds an ends. I have one wire running from the passenger side (yellow w/red stripe) that ends in the middle of the intake. Then I have a wire (yellow w/green stripe) that is coming from the driver side and ends in the same area. They were already cut and I have no idea what they are. I am missing the map sensor plug in this harness.
Also, I just found a black wire cut in the same area
 

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12v power, but what for, no idea.

I advise you to check the ecu pinout for your harness, and look at wire colors. Honda usually does a pretty good job of maintaining wire colors throughout the entire harness, aka, if it is yellow with red stripe at the ecu, it generally is all the way to the end plug.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Is it hard to rewire the distributor plugs or is it easier to just buy the jumper harness for the distributor and not have to worry about it?
 
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