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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm new to this website and just looking for some answers for my OBD0 to OBD1 conversion I just did. Before I converted the car over to OBD1, the car ran perfect. But now, since I converted it over, I am getting ecu code 9, which is for the crank position sensor. I bought the distributor from King Distributor brand new. I have the directions to convert OBD0 to OBD1 and I've tried different wiring configurations and I still get the same code 9. I also checked the car with a timing light and I was just wondering what mark lines up with the timing belt cover. There is a 3 slit mark and a single slit mark on the crank pulley. The only one that lines up with the crank pulley is the three slit mark. I cannot get the single slit mark to line up which I believe is the right mark. Do you think that may be the reason my engine light is coming on? Or do you think there is another reason behind it? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you.
 

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first of all what are you running. in what type car? these things help us help you . code 9 is your crank position sensor. basically your timing is off or your sensor is bad. some times wired up backwards can cause a code 9
 

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and the single white one is TDC the three with red in them are most likely lining up with the indicator on the timing belt cover . it will be an arrow to the left of tdc pointing at the pulley at an angle. that point should hit the red line in the center of the three. but from what you are describing .....you mechanical timing is off. i would just pull the belt and line that shit up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry, it's a 91 honda civic with dohc zc. What exactly did you mean in the previous post? So, should I line the single slit up with the timing belt cover when using the timing light then? Also, man, do you know the specifics of converting obd0 to obd1 for distributor wiring? I found so many different ways to match the wires up, some say if you have aftermarket distributor the thin white and orange wire get swapped if you get code 9, which I did and the car doesn't even start. But, if I match them up, the car starts, but then I have that code 9 come up. I really appreciate your help. Thanks!
 

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and the single white one is TDC the three with red in them are most likely lining up with the indicator on the timing belt cover . it will be an arrow to the left of tdc pointing at the pulley at an angle. that point should hit the red line in the center of the three. but from what you are describing .....you mechanical timing is off. i would just pull the belt and line that shit up.
i dont know if this is what you see but on my dohc zc this is how you do it . the cam gears need to be in the position that i show in the photo's now at the same time the crank pulley needs to be in this position and you can see in the photos the white mark is top dead center(TDC) and the three other marks with the red one in the middle line up with the pointer on the timing belt cover. so if you put your crank pulley in the TDC position and the cam gears are not on the money level with the head the you need to make them sometimes a third hand is good to hold the belt on the intake gear while you get the exhaust gear in the position you need it in then slide the belt on thus locking everything in its proper position. i don't know how else to explain it. but there are other peeps who live on this site that may be able to word things in a more technical way that you will understand .
 

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Ferio inspired
90' Civic sedan
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hmm not to well versed in Zc s but maybe it has something with thee carbed/non carbed am timing?
 

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90 crx si/96 accord
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Easiest way I've foundro set mechanical timing on my zc is after you get the vc off thread in two 6mm bolts in the cam retaining cap on the end with the cam gears as far as the the three hash marks and the single mark on the pulley there will be a little arrow of sorts or mark on the right side of the lower belt cover find that mark then check the block for the corresponding indicator
 

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1991 Honda CRX
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By the way the sensor is called the cylinder position sensor. One test is to check the resistance between the two terminals on the sensor, anything over 1000ohm is bad. Check the wiring from ecu to sensor. And also, check the timing as stated above.

Make sure the lower cover tab is lining up with white mark on the crank pulley and the cam gears marks are even with the head/valve cover surface, then you are good. If you are off, Take the valve cover off, there is holes on the cam caps by the cam gears, you can put a 5mm dowel or just some kind of bolt or something. This will hold the cam gears at TDC. Then loosen the tensioner bolt, take the belt off the cam gears and move the crank pulley until the white mark lines up. Then put the belt back on, make sure the crank pulley didn't move. Leave the tensioner bolt loose (just a half turn or so, don't pull the bolt out) and turn the crank pulley for a 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Then tighten the tensioner bolt to 33 ft/lbs. Then keep turning it counterclockwise to make sure the timing is still good.
 

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for checking the ignition timing with a timing light, the middle mark of the 3 ignition timing marks on the crank pulley should be aligned with the pointer on the timing belt cover
 

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Discussion Starter #11
woot woot!!!!i found the problem!!! it was a broken wire that went threw the fire wall that was rubbing on the metal on fire wall ..it was really hard to see but i found it... it was the orange wire that ran to ecu for cam senor....thanks for the help guys!!
 
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