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Discussion Starter #1
are these any good guys? doing a full rebuild on my d16 and want to replace things like this wilst its out if they are beneficial. so far ive spied these two kits.....any good?

cheers tom

http://www.xs-power.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=64

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/92-95-HONDA-CIVIC-DEL-SOL-SOHC-UNDERDRIVE-CRANK-PULLEY_W0QQitemZ170260509540QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item170260509540&_trkparms=72:12|39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

they look really cool, but would they may the difference and why are they so cheap....
 

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no they will hurt your engine, dont waste your money, stick with the OEM pulleys
 

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absoulutly not!!!!!!! a very short search and you will find the answers of why
 

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i got them not had any problems with them at all apart from i had to have a non ps rack witch is better any way. jsut gotta make sure there balanced to your engine
 

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i got them not had any problems with them at all apart from i had to have a non ps rack witch is better any way. just got to make sure there balanced to your engine.

i have:

Lightened under drive pulley
Lightened alternator pulley
Lighter cam pulley
lightened flywheel
 

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its not the balance, its the lack of a damper in the pulley. It will fuck your bearings due to poor harmonics.
 

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98 Hx Coupe
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its not the balance, its the lack of a damper in the pulley. It will fuck your bearings due to poor harmonics.
Can we make it clear for the noobs that the crank pulley is the one that will hurt your car ....Alt and ps will not
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cheers for the advice guys im loving this forum :) found it well hard on the british forums to gain rebuild info on the d, cheers tom
 

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Can we make it clear for the noobs that the crank pulley is the one that will hurt your car ....Alt and ps will not
yes, sorry about that. The crank pulley is the harmful one, the alt. and PS pulley are ok to change
 

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the lighter pullys for alt and ps arnt that good of an idea either. look at them they are different size than oem so it will have to spin the accesory less also meaning less work the motor has to do......but it also means your ac, ps, alt pully are spinning slower making them not function as well as oem. that means not as cold ac, alt wont recharge the battery so affectivly, ect..... i say skip it
 

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lol I’m just stating what i have fitted and had no problem with. how often are you gunna have a 9000 rpm d16 lol its not that common here in the uk.
i like them, i try things and dont just go on what people say. My bad if it brakes but then new engine build can be fun.
20,000 miles on this set up and has bin fine so far ok.
not pulley but adjustable cam gear witch is lighter then oem if you will. I do agree take out ps as it made a fair bit of difference.

Why just slate things and people forums are for advice and my advice is what I have experienced. Some others may have had bad experiences but I haven’t yet.
You don’t need to take it mate. end of the day its up to you I finished a motor sport degree and am still a newbie to working on an engine in my eyes so not going to make out like I’m a god unlike some people I have found on this and other forums.
My main experience is on a mazda 323 gtr rally car (now time attack car) not so much on Honda’s but the d16z6 I have is nippy for a lil 1.6 n/a

im not going to defend my self any farther I don’t see the point to many know it all’s ill never win.
 

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were not stating experiances per say we are stating facts. its proven that the sohc we have need the rubber that is in the pully to reduse vibrations. i dont know all the technicle stuff of the top of my head but i do know that its been proven to prematurly wear out the oil pump and the bearing in cylinder 1. its not worth risking it for such a little gain, i mean what maybe 1hp to the wheels. the 3 pounds you cut off wont do anything. a general rule of thumb i learned along time ago was that every 100lbs you reduce of the cars weight, it will gain you a tenth of a sec.
 

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hers some facts and well start with this picture.

this was on my b series im sure you can see the difference in size between the two and the most obvious fact about these 2 pulleys is one has rubber in it to absorb vibration that your STOCK UNBALANCED ENGINE HAS.
Now whether you know it or not the further away from the FLYWHEEL unbalanced weights are the more they are felt. The pulley with the rubber will always absorb the vibration where the pulley without it can't absorb shit. Vibration has to go somewhere most times it will travel back to the oil pump and voila catastrophic engine failure will result. we can all argue that this will happen or it will not. the real question is do you feel lucky and do you really need an uncomfortable 1 hp. it would be easier attained doing something else.

so in a nutshell here it is again. UNDER DRIVE PULLEYS ARE FUCKING DUMB!
 

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how often are you gunna have a 9000 rpm d16 lol its not that common here in the uk.
The point is if the OEM pulleys work on a "race" engine, then they most assuredly will work on something street driven.

i like them, i try things and dont just go on what people say.
go for it man, sounds like you already made up your mind before you even posted this thread.
 

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You don’t need to take it mate. end of the day its up to you I finished a motor sport degree and am still a newbie to working on an engine in my eyes so not going to make out like I’m a god unlike some people I have found on this and other forums.
well you have had it on there already for some miles, yes? so why not prove us all wrong and take the engines bottom end apart. then take some pics of the bearings. simple way to get people off your back.


My main experience is on a mazda 323 gtr rally car
the B/BP series engines that come in the 323 is way different then the little honda engines your dealing with now. the ford/mazda engines are build like mini tanks and take a beating like a champ. the honda block is far weaker in comparison. i have some experiance with the 323, had a buddy with a 87 323 base model.
 

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"well you have had it on there already for some miles, yes? so why not prove us all wrong and take the engines bottom end apart. then take some pics of the bearings. simple way to get people off your back." i am going to do this as i wanna change conrods there bloody tiney haha what your saying is prob true im not doubting it im saying from what i have done no need to slate ect. oh the engine has bin balanced that was done on the rebuild.

i didnt post this thread by the way lol

as for my bpt experance my mazda may have a very good engine but the gearbox is shit 310 bhp and it went pop so im doing a gt4 box vonersion and pushing the new build to 500 bhp at all 4 wheels :) to many cars to work on lol
 
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