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Discussion Starter #1
hey, sorry if this has been covered before but I have been searching for about an hour now. I just did a rear disc brake swap to 10.3 inch brakes using integra caliper with rsx caliper brackets. Anyway, I used new 99 civic si ebrake cables and I have them tightened all the way down unde the armrest and the ebrake does not fully engage. My rear calipers are functional(I can tell because all the parts are new and I can see some slight wear on the rear rotors). I did notice that on these ebrake cables there seems to be a nut on them close to where they attach to the rear caliper. Should I be adjusting this as well?

Any ideas would be appreciated. Like I said, I've already fully tightened them from under the arm rest.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ive already done that part, but after doing some more searching last night i found in an integra forum(i searched there as well because they are integra calipers) that i need to loosen the ebrake nute under the armrest completely, turn the car on and then "pump the brakes several times" and then adjust the ebrake nut. The guy that posted it, posted it directly out of the manual so i guess i will give it a try. The idea is that there are some type of "auto adjusters" that need calibrated. If this doesnt work im not sure what to do other than try another reman caliper(ive seen this problem be caused by bad calipers)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just tried what I talked about in the last post and still nothing. I can tell the brakes are biting a little bit, just not enough to stop it on a steep hill.


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I have this same problem. It bites enough for a small hill but not a large one. I'm adjusted all the way tight. Thinking I may need to disassemble the cable at the armrest and take out the slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have this same problem. It bites enough for a small hill but not a large one. I'm adjusted all the way tight. Thinking I may need to disassemble the cable at the armrest and take out the slack.

How do you plan on taking out the slack? I just wanna know so I can try lol


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Does it have to do with using larger rotors? EM1 cables were made for smaller ones.

Maybe you have to play with how it's attached to chassis
 

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I have the same issue with mine although I didn't actually swap anything out. All I did was remove the rear trailing arms completely for maintenance. Upon re-installation/adjustment, All I can get is a slight drag. lol
 

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To adjust kelsey hayes you need to hold down the brake pedal with your foot, then keep jacking off the ebrake. It will ratchet out the locking mechanism in the caliper so the ebrake will work.
 

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I set my eBrake to lock about an inch or two from the vertical position.

This allows my hand to accelerate up with the handle farther faster as to provide a quicker locking action, makes sliding fun and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i think i found the problem, for some reason the rear calipers dont seem to be catching at all anymore( i can tell because the rotors still look pretty new) im going to try another set of reman calipers and see if it fixes it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To adjust kelsey hayes you need to hold down the brake pedal with your foot, then keep jacking off the ebrake. It will ratchet out the locking mechanism in the caliper so the ebrake will work.
to adjust the what?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have the same issue with mine although I didn't actually swap anything out. All I did was remove the rear trailing arms completely for maintenance. Upon re-installation/adjustment, All I can get is a slight drag. lol
i wonder what the problem could be then. this makes no sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Does it have to do with using larger rotors? EM1 cables were made for smaller ones.

Maybe you have to play with how it's attached to chassis
no, because the ebrake mechanism on the caliper is the same. i think maybe i got a bad set of calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, I replaced me calipers and still nothing. It seems the ebrake cable does not have enough tension in it to pull the mechanism. I've tried every weird method out there and nithing. I did not use the stock Clevis pin and I'm thinking maybe that's the issue. I will order some from Honda and see if that fixes it. Also, I did not use those brackets on the calipers that you're supposed to feed the cable through. Is this an issue? I didn't use them because the reman calipers did not come with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lol yes. Those hold the outer jacket of the cable from moving so the inner cable can do its work.


Post pics.

I will post some pics ASAP. Weather has been bad so I haven't gotten the car back up in the air yet.


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Lol yes. Those hold the outer jacket of the cable from moving so the inner cable can do its work.


Post pics.
That's exactly what I was about to say.



What bracket? If you mean #25 then yes. That will affect how they operate.


Also, if you've done a bad job of bleeding, the handbrake wont work properly either. I believe mine and Biggies car did the same on our rear disc swap. Cross bleed it also...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That's exactly what I was about to say.



What bracket? If you mean #25 then yes. That will affect how they operate.


Also, if you've done a bad job of bleeding, the handbrake wont work properly either. I believe mine and Biggies car did the same on our rear disc swap. Cross bleed it also...
yup number 25 it is, and what exactly do you mean by cross bleed? what i normally do is work from the farthest corner away from the master cylinder to the closest. Example: rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver.
 

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EG8
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When you drain it to do a rear brake, there could be air in the prop valve still.

Cross bleeding is suggested in HELMs with rear disks IIRC. So RP, FD, RD, FP.

And yea, the #25 bracket is exactly why it's not doing anything useful lol.


Do you do slow bleeds? You should also do short ones and fast pumping and etc. It's annoying for sure...

It's also easier if you Have clear tubing, did you use that to bleed the brakes?
 
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