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Discussion Starter #1
I had my car dyno tuned this morning on a Mustang Dynometer. I'm a little disappointed that I wasn't making as much power as I expected. The shop had ordered a flange for the BOV a couple weeks ago and it still hasn't arrived yet, so I don't have a BOV, nor intercooler yet, nor a boost gauge yet - due to the triple pillar pod not arriving yet either. The internals are all stock. The custom exaust piping I put in the car 2 years ago is 2.5" and I plan on replacing the entire exaust piping with a Skunk2 exhaust system. The current exhaust piping has maybe a 2' glass pack (resonator) on it to make it (the exhaust) quieter back then before my car was turbo charged.

The turbo right now is a Greddy Kit (TD40H-15G) with 310cc RC injectors. The shop guy told me the car was running a little rich, but a little tuning will help fix that. Oh, i almost forgot that the guy told me the turbo is running at 8 PSI.

What do you guys think?
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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that mustang dyno looks like it reads alot higher than the one I dynoed on
 

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vtecduck said:
that mustang dyno looks like it reads alot higher than the one I dynoed on
this ones about right though it seems for what a greddy kit should put out with what he has on it....somethin is either up with your setup or the dyno you were on ;)
 

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yeah the dyno I was is about 15-20% off of a dyno jet's numbers according to the guy who tuned mine. I thought someone told me that all of the mustang dynos would read low, guess not.
 

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vtecduck said:
yeah the dyno I was is about 15-20% off of a dyno jet's numbers according to the guy who tuned mine. I thought someone told me that all of the mustang dynos would read low, guess not.
No this one is reading low as well....140whp on this graph + 15% = roughly 160whp which is what he should be looking at for the greddy kit without intercooler and all that jazz.
 

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00kickercivic said:
No this one is reading low as well....140whp on this graph + 15% = roughly 160whp which is what he should be looking at for the greddy kit without intercooler and all that jazz.
damn, then the one I was on was really off, or my car did really shitty on the dyno:hammer:
 

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vtecduck said:
damn, then the one I was on was really off, or my car did really shitty on the dyno:hammer:
yea sounds like it needs some better tuning.... stick with it and you will get r there! :)
 

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00kickercivic said:
yea sounds like it needs some better tuning.... stick with it and you will get r there! :)
trying to, it's hard going from a jackson @ 8 psi with no problems to a greddy that's acting crazy. Hopefully it'll all be done this weekend and boosting good
 

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vtecduck said:
trying to, it's hard going from a jackson @ 8 psi with no problems to a greddy that's acting crazy. Hopefully it'll all be done this weekend and boosting good
yup i cant wait to get mine tuned and running right :)
 

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I thought you posted somewhere you may sell the kit? Having second thoughts?
 

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vtecduck said:
I thought you posted somewhere you may sell the kit? Having second thoughts?
im going to go to a bigger turbo, equal length mani, ext wastegate, and all that fun stuff at some point.... need to build the block and get more boost :)
 

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I hear ya, I just broke myself with the greddy. I'll hang on to it for a while and prob do the same
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
ok, i put about 1.5 additional gallons of gas in the tank today (got the car back yesterday after turbo was installed). Then I was on my way home, then the yellow engine check light came on. I looked in the car manual; it describes the light as the "malfunction indicator lamp". The manual says something about making sure the fuel fill cap is on tightly. I checked that already. It mentions something about emissions control system in the manual too.

Does anyone else had that problem? The shop guy who installed my turbo did say something about the engine running a little bit rich. Could this be the problem and should I be worried?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
spdracer22 said:
Go to a parts store (Autozone, Advance, O'reily, etc) and have them scan the trouble code. Then, once you have the number, you can look it up in a hanes manual or online and see what's up...or post it here, and we'll help you out.
ok, i went to Autozone and the guy told me that it showed a "P" code - fuel malfunction. the car still runs like shit & feels like it's choking when stepping on the gas. based on my research here, it could be that i need to replace the fuel filter. so if i want to replace the fuel filter on my car (2000 Civic EX - D16Y8 ), it is located underneath the car on the driver's side near the gas cap right? anyways, i'm taking my car back to the shop to have it checked. also the engine does shake alot when it is running idle.
 

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No the fuel filter is to the right of the battery man. Do a compression check. My car has been acting shitty at idle lately too and I did a compression check. Turned out my #2 cylinder was at around 135-140psi and all the others were at 210...I still don't know what the problem is though. But yea hold on and I'll get you a pic of the fuel filter.

EDIT: Here ya go dude.
 

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the map sensor doesnt like boost

since the map sensor could be blown it cant determine how much vac/boost u have going thru the motor... thus cant determine the proper fuel amount
 
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why did you even try to dyno your car without a boost gauge/ BOV/intercooler?

i hope you dont plan on using that greddy turbo for long, with no blowoff valve, you're gonna be having compressor surge out the ass.
 
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