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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #1
This is the first tuning sheet


Here is the second, I picked up 20hp and almost 12 ft. lbs. His dyno is off from a dyno jet by at least 15%.It should look more like this on a dyno jet: hp-158.58 @ 5900 rpm
torque-153.75 @ 3800 rpm

This is @ 7.5 psi. My valve for the greddy boost controller was bad out of the box, so I'm running stock boost right now until I can get them to replace it for me.
:confused: I still don't know how or why I'm only making 5hp more than ft lbs of torque, or why I'm making peak hp at only 5900 rpm. Could he have my timing advanced so that I'm losing top end?
I know the distributor has been moved toward the front of the car, I'm not sure if that's advanced or retarded though. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but since I'm running Neptune on it, shouldn't the advance/retard be done through the ecu now? He said he had it set through the ecu, and to mark the distributor if I took it out, but should the distributor be moved a noticeable difference from when I took it to him?
The whole time I was running my jackson @ 8psi the distributor was set where it needed to be for no advance or retard on the timing, it was all controlled by the the timing controller I got from them with the boost upgrade. It automaticly adj the timing while under boost, shouldn't Neptune be able to do that too?
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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5,186 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Sorry about that, I had the exahsut redone to all 3" with no cat or resonator, and the down pipe form the o2 sensor down changed to 3". The goof ball that did the exhaust the first time bottle necked it and used a samller resonator than what I asked him too.
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #5
yeah, it's a manual. For anyone who didn't get a chance to read the first post about it this is what's done to the car: greddy turbo kit, fmic, skunk 2 intake manifold, rc 440 cc inj, jackson cam gear, holley fpr, walbro fuel pump, msd blaster ss coil, crane 11mm plug wires, 160 degree thermostat, heat range colder plugs, act street clutch, act extreme pressure plate, fidonza lightened fly wheel, full mandrel bent 3" exhaust, apex n1 universal muffler, no cat or resonator, Neptuned ecu.
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #6
sorry replied twice by accident
 

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Yea agreed, these are SCARY low numbers for any turbo sohc.There is obviously a weak link in your system somewhere. Your only making about 30 more whp than the motor originally came with.. and there is something VERY VERY VERY wrong with that. Especially with neptune. You should be around 170 at least on that boost level with that exhaust and NEPTUNE for that matter. Even from your first dyno... you were making numbers that I/h/e PnP, cam NA z6's usually make. Man thats fucked up. It looks like you have a very very nice setup. Whats even more weird is you have supporting mods (cam gear sk2 IM etc) and your still reading SOOO low. Hows your compression. Maybe you broke some ringlands running an sc.
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #8
I still need to check compression, been meaning to do that for a while now. rings should be good, not smoke, no funky noises. I very rarely boost it unless I'm at the track, which isn't too often with my work schedule. Besides that cops target my car being bright red and a honda, so I stay out of it for the most part.
 

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Neighborhood Asshole is Back!
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better... but like they said i would still expect you to be more in the 180whp range with that setup. definately check why you are making peak whp at only 5900rpm.. something is definately wrong there.
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #10
00kickercivic said:
better... but like they said i would still expect you to be more in the 180whp range with that setup. definately check why you are making peak whp at only 5900rpm.. something is definately wrong there.
That's what I thought too. I'm going to take it to another shop and let them look at it and see what they think. I have to try and find a copy of neptune to take to them.
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #11


here's the air/fuel and boost graph. I couldn't read it well on the print out. it still looks like it's losing a little boost. I'm going to check my bov, maybe it's too loose and letting some boost leak. I've checked all my couplers and connections and they all look good and are tight. the bov is the only thing left that i know to check
 

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but like they said i would still expect you to be more in the 180whp range with that setup


Note: that a stock Z6 makes around 85ish whp on this dyno, Jason is making around 70ish more bhp @ 6.5psi than a stock motor.

Jason-

Your dizzy had to be moved closer to the FW to obtain the proper base timing. (16 BTDC)
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #13
cool, thank you. i thought i was set right, guess not
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #14
no more ideas or suggestions?
 

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What are you upset with?

The best thing you can do is get a boost controller and have the boost pressure hold. The numbers aren't bad at all. Multiply them by 1.15 and you will get approximately what will read on a dynojet. If you want to spend more money, a bigger DP is the way to go.

I will say I would have had the car revving to 7k regardless.
 

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they are right, find out what is up with the top end power loss and you'll be good to go...
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
bigwig said:
What are you upset with?

The best thing you can do is get a boost controller and have the boost pressure hold. The numbers aren't bad at all. Multiply them by 1.15 and you will get approximately what will read on a dynojet. If you want to spend more money, a bigger DP is the way to go.

I will say I would have had the car revving to 7k regardless.
got a bigger downpipe, got a greddy profec boost controller that has a bad noid.greddy is trying to give me a hard time about replacing it. So is that boost curve normal? Why is everyone telling me I should be around 180 whp?
 

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it seems like a nice and safe tune to me the dyno is why its reading "low" you are making peak power at 5900 but you are holding it or mbby droping by 2-3 whp to redline, which is AWESOME that means you have go fron 5900-7000rpm unlike peaky cars that make power from 6500-7000, you have a NICE setup man nothing to be ashamed of or afraid something is wrong the nice broad powerband and low end TQ is EXACTLY what a honda needs to kick some serus ass.
 

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vtecduck said:
got a bigger downpipe, got a greddy profec boost controller that has a bad noid.greddy is trying to give me a hard time about replacing it. So is that boost curve normal? Why is everyone telling me I should be around 180 whp?
The boost curve is somewhat normal. It should read Xpsi regardless of rpm. boost dropping off or increasing shows signs of issues. The WG arm probably needs a little tweaking in this case.

People dont have a clue for the most part. Thats why they tell you things. Mustang Dynos read about 15-20% lower than dynojets. Multiply your numbers by 1.17 and you will find they are close to 180whp. If you can keep your boost pressure up, you'll be able to keep your torque curve more flat and allow more hp. Remember HP=torque*rpm/5252. Dont worry so much about your hp. look at the torque curve. Get the torque holding better in the higher rpm range(not allowing boost pressure to bleed off) and you can rev to 7k and make more hp.
 
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