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Good day peeps,

I recently cleaned up my iacv and throttle body and calibrated my TPS, but found that a CT it reads .61 and WOT it reads 4.5, how do i get it down to .5v - 4.5v? if i get it to .5v CT it reads 4.33 at WOT. Please help!!!:(
 

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For a street car I always set the closed correctly, the car will give you crap if it is set wrong.

Wherever WOT lands is fine IMO, I have never noticed a difference.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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I have noticed some aftermarket throttle bodies are not machined correctly and attaining .045v @ closed is difficult at times.
I think you meant 0.45 VDC

Myself, I liked the .30 VDC setting I had on the D15B7, but it was for mileage purposes :)
 

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I have noticed some aftermarket throttle bodies are not machined correctly and attaining .045v @ closed is difficult at times.
Ive run into a couple of those, done the drilling out the tps holes and if that doesnt work bending the tabs inside the tps. If both of those together dont work you are either dealing with something that wasnt made for a honda, or someones machining specs are so far off you shouldnt use it anyway.
 

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Mind to explain? Pros, cons?
setting it below the 0.5 volt means the ecu will never know its going full throttle, and will never dump extra fuel or pull the timing way back.

Only suggested doing if your car is otherwise in PERFECT running condition, otherwise your good neighborhood villain detonation will make an appearance and fuck your day up lol

^that is MY idea of it. Mista Bone aka transzex will have the actual data to help. Im simply going off of what I know the ecu is looking for. I personally have not done it.

set to 0.5 for best mix of drivability and performance, like honda tells you to.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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ECU knew it was going WOT, but it wouldn't know when the throttle was just BARELY cracked opened, so it stay in coast down fuel cut without the higher pumping losses from engine braking.

Strickly for MPG purposes...

It started from a mis-adjusted Gude TB, but I played with it some more.
 

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Hondas are speed density, the TPS doesnt make that much difference at WOT. For a street car just make sure the closed setting is between .45-.5v
 

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what are you smoking?

Its very important to have it dialed in properly. It will effect gas mileage and performance quite a bit if its messed up.
 

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If the lower voltage is set correctly the upper voltage will be close, and Honda ECUs dont freak out about the upper voltage like they do about the lower voltage.

Since its one adjustment for 2 settings, you get to pick which one is dead on. I prefer the one that is important more often for street cars.

If you are racing and dont give a shit about idle, thats might be a different story.
 

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If the lower voltage is set correctly the upper voltage will be close, and Honda ECUs dont freak out about the upper voltage like they do about the lower voltage.

Since its one adjustment for 2 settings, you get to pick which one is dead on. I prefer the one that is important more often for street cars.

If you are racing and dont give a shit about idle, thats might be a different story.
a good TPS will be at most around 0.05 volts off.


I didnt mean to sound dickish, but Ive had poor experience with bad TPS and bad adjustments. Ive even extended a tank's range by over 50 miles by making the TPS read correctly. That is a lot of money not being wasted anymore!

I set mine for full throttle reading. the ecu will compensate properly for a stable idle if other sensors are in good service condition.
 

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a good TPS will be at most around 0.05 volts off.


I didnt mean to sound dickish, but Ive had poor experience with bad TPS and bad adjustments. Ive even extended a tank's range by over 50 miles by making the TPS read correctly. That is a lot of money not being wasted anymore!

I set mine for full throttle reading. the ecu will compensate properly for a stable idle if other sensors are in good service condition.
Interesting. I have always had exactly the opposite. ECU can throw a hissy fit and give you shitty idle or wierd transitions or odd injector cuts if it doesnt see the right voltage at closed throttle. I always track my mileage and I have never noticed a difference based on where the high side lands for performance or economy.

I have seen stock honda TPS readings from 3.5-4.5v when the closed is set correctly, and I always make sure the 5v line is very close to correct. Never made a bit of difference for me. I wonder what you do differently?
 

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I used to have a TPS "bridge" plug. unplug TPS, plug in bridge with volt sense points exposed, plug into TPS.

I would calibrate when engine is fully warmed up. TPS sensor tends to get a bit of resistance from heat, especially old ones that have a decade or two on them. my theory was engine was usually running at full temp anyways, might as well have things adjusted for that.

I hacked apart an old TPS sensor to get my bridge idea in play. But this was 5-6 years ago. Ive long since given up on that and use my fancy multimeter (read: any actual brand name lol) with super thin prongs on it.

your idea of calibrating isnt wrong. But i beat the shit out of my cars on a daily. I maintain them thoroughly and rigorously, and usually adjusted things so they worked 100% at maximum retard...err.. throttle! :fingersx:



An idea of my maintenance. my 97 civic was running great except for warm restartsm, then running shitty. new plugs fixed it. Could have left it. Stands with plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, wire grounds, new battery terminals, newER main relay (Er, for shelf life new lol).

Because racecar! or foolishly anal work since I like a car I can go on crosscountry trips at any moment with zero worries.
 

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I dont really see how any of that effects how the computer views the closed throttle tps measurement..... but ok, car maintaince is good.

It is funny you mention grounds.... I am seriously considering removing all my engine grounds, other than the thermostat ground, on my 88hf crx when I get around to cleaning up the engine bay...

My black b18a1 CRX could use some love, I dont think it has ever had new plug or wires in the couple years I have owned it, it has a second hand cap I found laying around in some other parts I had. The black box oil seperator is broken and when I do a couple pulls in a row to the 7k cut on my unmodified p06 ecu it smokes a little in the cabin...

But with all that it averages ALMOST 35 mpg and was dead reliable until just week when the starter contacts started going out. It still hasnt left me stranded, but it is annoying, and the $13 parts for the new contacfs and plunger are in the mail. Other than the starter I would have zero issues hopping in that car right now and driving from Houston up to near Seattle where my family lives, or anywhere on this continent tbat has roads really.

Honestly Hondas just dont take that much to be reliable...
 

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For a street car I always set the closed correctly, the car will give you crap if it is set wrong.

Wherever WOT lands is fine IMO, I have never noticed a difference.
QFT. The doesn't give one shit if pedal to the metal is 101% or 78%, meanwhile many things are affected when it thinks it's not at 0% TPS. The only time WOT % maters is when you have the TPS wired in reverse and the engine thinks zero throttle is really WOT - but that's still not an adjustment issue. Thankfully I've never had to adjust a TPS - all my cars have used EMS's with software TPS adjustments.


Honestly Hondas just dont take that much to be reliable...
My f2b del sol is like that, 99% of it's problems are due to rust (winter salt), not design issues.
 

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So I should not worry about WOT setting and go for when pedal is untouched?

I admit my experience playing around is limited, but I really havent seem any side effects from setting the full open setting.

Maybe I will try in this civic of mine. Currently TPS untouched.
 

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If everything is working ok I wouldnt worry about adjusting it to much, but if it was me I would probably check the closed value out of curiosity.
 
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