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Discussion Starter #1
ive gotten alot of mixed answers on this from people with experience.

do i need a fpr ? i have a stock d16y8

gona be running a chipped p28 with dsm 450s with a 14b @ stock wastegated 8psi
 
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Discussion Starter #2
chitty said:
ive gotten alot of mixed answers on this from people with experience.

do i need a fpr ? i have a stock d16y8

gona be running a chipped p28 with dsm 450s with a 14b @ stock wastegated 8psi
I've got an FPR with stock injectors on my n/a setup simply because i wanted to get the optimal air/fuel mixture. For a turbo setup, I would think that it would be ideal to have some kind of fuel management. Don't want to be running too lean with a turbo. I think you might be alright without an FPR since you've already got the 450cc injectors and plan to run stock boost but im not too sure so don't take my word for it. If you do get the fpr and tune it yourself, make sure that the adjustment knob is locked when you're done. I've heard stories of people's engines blowing up from having the screw on the knob loosen and end up running too lean. You might have heard (or will hear) some people say that it's not worth it to get a FPR and that it's a POS. In that case, you could get a Apex'i AFC if you have the money to spend and get it dyno tuned. In my opinion, an FPR is a good cheap and simple first step for fuel management for something you can get for less than 100 bux. And remember that you'll need a Fuel Pressure Guage with the FPR.

Hope nobody flames me on this post. =P
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Richie_A_19 said:
nope, cause you are running a chipped p28.... it does the job of the FPR...
exactly what i thought, dont know what that 1st reply was all about..
 

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ek_chris said:
why? its useless
Useless if you have a way to tune your car and adjust your injector opening duration. If you dont have a chipped ecu/piggyback it is a cost effective way to get more fuel in the combustion chamber! And let say you have some 240 cc injector and you need just a little more fuel(already at 80-85% duty cycle), turn up the pressure and you will not have to buy new injector!
 

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B20BbenN said:
Useless if you have a way to tune your car and adjust your injector opening duration. If you dont have a chipped ecu/piggyback it is a cost effective way to get more fuel in the combustion chamber! And let say you have some 240 cc injector and you need just a little more fuel(already at 80-85% duty cycle), turn up the pressure and you will not have to buy new injector!
Correct and i agree.
 

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chitty said:
ive gotten alot of mixed answers on this from people with experience.

do i need a fpr ? i have a stock d16y8

gona be running a chipped p28 with dsm 450s with a 14b @ stock wastegated 8psi
He said this in his first post... so the answer would be NO!
 

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B20BbenN said:
Useless if you have a way to tune your car and adjust your injector opening duration. If you dont have a chipped ecu/piggyback it is a cost effective way to get more fuel in the combustion chamber! And let say you have some 240 cc injector and you need just a little more fuel(already at 80-85% duty cycle), turn up the pressure and you will not have to buy new injector!
I'm going to disagree on two points:

1) This is a Forced Induction forum, and "a cost effective way to get more fuel in the combustion chamber," is a meaningless statement. The quanitities of fuel needed for both extra airmass and thermal management renders relying on an aftermarket FPR for more fuel as satisfactory an experience as being sodomized by a donkey. ;) Works great for the NA boys just looking for a little more, though.

2) If you feel any need to raise your fuel pressure at the rail, get a second stock FPR off a friend for zero dollars and crush it a little in a vise until desired pressure is achieved.



Forgive the shitty camera phone resolution:



RLZ built 2.0 LS/VTEC, RC 1100cc injectors, 321SS bag of snakes one-off manifold w/ anti-reversion chambers, T4/T67; should be able to hit 500 whp off pump gas. There's $15K under the hood, easy. If you squint, you can make out the stock FPR.
 

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Joseph Davis said:
I'm going to disagree on two points:

1) This is a Forced Induction forum, and "a cost effective way to get more fuel in the combustion chamber," is a meaningless statement. The quanitities of fuel needed for both extra airmass and thermal management renders relying on an aftermarket FPR for more fuel as satisfactory an experience as being sodomized by a donkey. ;) Works great for the NA boys just looking for a little more, though.
Injector rating(cc/min) are based on a constant fuel pressure. The dsm 450cc injector atomize 450cc of fuel in one minute at xx fuel pressure ( I dont remember if it is at 80% duty cycle or 100%....anyway..)
If the guy run XX psi out of his turbo(OH yeah we are on forced induction furum...) and his injector run at 87% duty cycle , and the guy say"oh no I dont want a duty cycle over 80-82% and I dont want to reduce my boost pressure..." this guy just have to turn the screw to get 5-6 more psi of fuel pressure! This way you transform your 450cc into some 460-470 cc/m injector.....

Joseph Davis said:
2) If you feel any need to raise your fuel pressure at the rail, get a second stock FPR off a friend for zero dollars and crush it a little in a vise until desired pressure is achieved.
Crush your fpr if you want, if you think it is better way than an adjustable fpr....
Joseph Davis said:
RLZ built 2.0 LS/VTEC, RC 1100cc injectors, 321SS bag of snakes one-off manifold w/ anti-reversion chambers, T4/T67; should be able to hit 500 whp off pump gas. There's $15K under the hood, easy. If you squint, you can make out the stock FPR.
B20BbenN said:
Useless if you have a way to tune your car and adjust your injector opening duration.
 

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B20BbenN said:
this guy just have to turn the screw to get 5-6 more psi of fuel pressure! This way you transform your 450cc into some 460-470 cc/m injector
Heh. Most people think a couple psi is good for way more than that... glad you know the score.

High fuel pressures start killing off pump's actual flow. 5-6 psi won't do that, though.

And, you owned me on reading comprehension...
 
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Forgive the shitty camera phone resolution:



RLZ built 2.0 LS/VTEC, RC 1100cc injectors, 321SS bag of snakes one-off manifold w/ anti-reversion chambers, T4/T67; should be able to hit 500 whp off pump gas. There's $15K under the hood, easy. If you squint, you can make out the stock FPR.
Where'd u get that crazy manifold from?

Reminds me of the header that bisimoto made for the d-series.
 

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It's some one off piece the owner got somewhere without my approval.

It has a large crack and a hole the size of a lima bean in the underside of #4 runner; I tell the guy to brace a thin wall tubular, and he insists it will be okay as is to get the car tuned and he'll brace it later. Two hours of tuning later, boost falls off and exhaust noise starts roaring. There is no way to fit a TIG torch up in there with how the bottom of #4 is occluded by the wastegate exit. Theo-rectally it can be MIG'd with a spool gun, the welding shop was supposed to call me yesterday about it.
 
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