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EG hatchback
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi im still very new to rebuilding my first motor.
i want to know that do i have to remove the flywheel to remove the crankshaft?
my crankshaft keyway is damaged and i need to get that checked so as everything else.

i cant remove the flywheel bolts, with hand tools. hard enough the crank bolt breaks loose. and also i dont have a air compressor at my home. my other option is bringing it to work but i dont want to put the whole block in my car. its oily

is it possible to remove whole crankshaft with the flywheel on?
if its possible id rather bring the whole crank w/flywheel to get it off.
 

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I've never needed to try this but I'm thinking no. To pull the crank you need to remove the housing for the rear main seal. With the flywheel in place I don't see how you're going to get it unbolted and off the dowels.
 
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89 CRX Si
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You've got your answer, but curious why you can't remove the flywheel bolts if everything is still attached to the block?? Wedge something between the teeth on the outside of the flywheel or through a hole in the flywheel and the block to lock down the flywheel, then a breaker bar...maybe with a pipe over the handle for more leverage...

Just a suggestion to try to save you some difficulty...
 

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CRX ECODiesel Ram
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i actually made a flywheel holder tool out of flat stock, i just bolt it to the flywheel and it is about 3 feet long and allows me to keep teh flywheel still while cranking the flywheel bolts off.
 

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93 Civic del Sol Si
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1,278 Posts
I've never needed to try this but I'm thinking no. To pull the crank you need to remove the housing for the rear main seal. With the flywheel in place I don't see how you're going to get it unbolted and off the dowels.
Yeah, you're right it would be pretty hard to get to the bolts behind the flywheel... Wasn't thinking about that...
 

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'97 crv
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ya, you really need to take the flywheel off to get the rear main seal bolts off. cannot leave flywheel on
 

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Honda sells a tool too p/n 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003:

 

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Asshole
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All you need is 1 transmission bolt, one 13mm wrench and one bolt in the flywheel like the pic above. Anything else and your doing it wrong.
 

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91 Civic sedan
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Honda sells a tool too p/n 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003:

DUDE I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU HAVE THIS TOOL!!!

When I saw it in the FSM a couple years ago I knew I needed one. Went to my local honda dealer and they told me it was discontinued. :thinking:
 

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I always have a problem with the whole block wanting to roll. I use an impact or put it in a trash bag and take it to someone with an impact.
 

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DUDE I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU HAVE THIS TOOL!!!

When I saw it in the FSM a couple years ago I knew I needed one. Went to my local honda dealer and they told me it was discontinued. :thinking:

Still available but is VERY pricey, $149.50!
 

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97 honda coupe
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rope in the sparkplug hole, allways works. just make sure its on the compression stroke, and not the intake/exhaust.
 

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Honda sells a tool too p/n 07LAB-PV00100 or 07924-PD20003:

How did I not ever know about this before!

I mean I always ended up doing it the ******* way with a pry bar but DANG that's cool...
 

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This is what I do with all my engines: just put the wrench on the bolt, and hit the end of it with a regular hammer (like a man) and it will break loose, this acts like an impact gun.
 

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How did I not ever know about this before!

I mean I always ended up doing it the ******* way with a pry bar but DANG that's cool...
Never read a FSM before? Everything(well mostly) you need to know is in there, it even gives you p/n's for specialty tools.
 
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1988 Honda CRX
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VW had something similar for the original Beetle and they had one real big bolt through the centre of the flywheel at around 200ft.lb from memory. It worked and their one was cheap. Also not all that hard to make.

I just used a 5' long piece of flat bar with one hole for a clutch bolt then leaned it against another clutch bolt and my shoulder as I pulled the breaker bar with both hands, no roll of the block as the flat bar on the shoulder countered the breaker bar as I pressed them toward each other. Of course the flat bat gad a big chunk of rag around it so it did not cut my shoulder.

As this was a weak point on Beetles I always used an aftermarket bolt that went to 400 ft.lb. Still used the same method. To torque it I stabilised the block and flat bar on the concrete floor and stood on the breaker with all my weight at the correct length for my weight, just say 150lb at 2'8".
 
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