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Discussion Starter #1
I need to change my drivers side wheel bearing on the front. I was searching through all the threads and read that instead of pressing everything off and on you can simply use a slide hammer to remove the bearing and tighten the axle nut back on to push it back in
I need to get this done on a saturday morning and I dont have access to a shop nor do I even own a slide hammer but I can make one tomorrow at work. Need to know what it has to be sized like.

Anyone have any ideas on what size I need to make it (dimensions etc)

Also, Ive never swapped a wheel bearing. I dont even know where it is. If you know how to use this method could you walk me through it. I know there are c-clips and such i believe but dont know exactly what needs to come off etc.

I need to do this with handtools on a cold canada day in a driveway. Wont be pretty. Need help

Hope someone can help
 

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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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in your driveway in the cold, all you're basically going to be able to do is take the knuckle out and bring it to a machine shop or dealership and have them press out the old bearing and press the new one in for you :TU:

i work in a climate-controlled honda dealership. we have air tools being powered by a large compressor. we have a 17 1/2 ton shop press with various tooling available for the job and technical manuals at our fingertips. and even with all these resources available, we STILL have trouble getting some wheelbearings out of the knuckle on some cars. if you can figure out a way to get the old one out and the new one back in without the use of a hydraulic or mechanical press and air tools, you will be front and center in SHOW AND TELL :D.

p.s. remember all, be sure to check if your knuckle has snap rings in them or not, otherwise the bearing won't go anywhere :roll:
 

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Del sol
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Just for you Steve-O, since you asked :TU:

I did it with a regular hammer!! im am the epitome of uber ghetto! :p ahahah... :sadface:

Ok so the low down is im dumping all my dough into my FI build (can be found in the FI forum sticky) and my wheel bearing gose out. So i get quoted on what it costs to replace it 200-500 dollars X_x! No go -So i go down to the local vatozone, i get quoted on a new wheel bearing. Its 50bones retail and I get the hommie discount = better. To make the situation worse I didnt have a slide hammer or machine press.

*Tools* (its really all i had on hand!)
1-dremel
2-renforced cutting discs
3-assortment of screwdrivers
1-razor blade.
Some random wood nails
1-hammer
3-cotter pins for the reassembly of the hub onto the car.
1 Large socket
(annd the tools needed to put the hub back onto the car)

*Taking out the old bearing*
Fast foward to my garage with my *NEW* wheel bearing in hand. I take off the wheel hub off, easy. Then the outside of the bearing that holds the spindle fall out, along with 3-4 other bearings. I think to myself "meh what ever at least im half way there now"
I begin to the C-clip out,it didnt want to come out after many unsucsefull attemps so i then used the dremel to make a tiny tab on the inside of the hub thing just outside of the c-clip that holds the bearing. With this tab it allowed me to slip a sharp flat head screw driver in there ever so slightly to pry the clip to the side to begin sliding the clip around to pull it out. I did this along with another screwdriver and a nail, i think... anyways it came out flying accross my bench.
With the bearing pretty much apart with the spindle holder part set aside I then begin to press out the old bearing with the OEM jack and a 2x4 in a door frame in my garage- no go. That didnt work so I begin cutting away at the bearing inside of the hub with my dremel in an X pattern on oppiside sides inside of the hub trying to be ever so carefull not to cut into the hub its self. I use the wood nails and razor blades at this time combined with a hammer to get inbetween the bearing and the inside of the hub to pry the chunks i created with the dremel out. A few hours later all of the bearing on the inside comes out. Now with that done...
On to the other part of the bearing, the part that holds the spindle on the axle. I begin cutting it with the dremel in three sections. I then use the same technique of using a nail and the sharp screw driver with a hammer to seperate it from the main part. It came off pretty easy compared to its counterpart.


**Putting in the NEW wheel bearing**

Before I started, I lubed the outside of the bearing with some grease. I really should have stuck the bearing in the freezer to some extent to help slide it in there better.
So i again tried the technique of using the OEM jack and the door frame to press in the bearing. Agian, it didnt work, it worked for only a few cm. Something which i could have done with the hammer. So i set the hub up on the bench and placed the 2x4 on top of the bearing as not to damage the thin metal shim and gasket on bearings face. Wack-wack-wack... wack ..depending on you strength, hammer used, and your dexterity the bearing should be flush with the outside of the hubs top part. At this point i took a LARGE socket that closely matched the outside of the bearing and begain to pound the bearing the rest of the way in. Every few wacks i would flip the hub over to check if the bearing is in. Eventually the bearing went in.
I then begain to put the c-clip back in. I used the small tab i made earlier to help put the c-clip back in. I belive i used a large set of adjutable plyers to help slip the clip back in.
Thats done, great, now to put in the spindle part I again used the hammer to pound the spindle in to place. I spin her a few times to check its ok. Then back onto the car it gose.


RECAP, in this order
1Take out the c-clip
2Take out the old bearing
3Press in the new bearing
4 Put in the c-clip
5Then press in the spindle part


Cliff Notes:
It can be done, just not easy.
Its Wayyy cheaper
Hey *NEW* bearing
Patients is a nesscity
still driving it daily since 11-06-2006, 09:33pm

If anything wasent clear lemme know ill try and clarify :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah man I thought I didnt have to take the hub off the car in order to get this bearing out someone said

I dont know how to get to the bearing if you can explain that part. And if theres a way to do everything without taking every single thing apart Id love to that that aswell being as I have little tools

Its hard to explain but I dont even know what Im going to be looking at/for as Ive never torn my assembly down that far

Is there not a way to push the wheel bearing back in with the axle nut?

Thanks very much man
 

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Del sol
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Im pretty sure you have too, even if you work like a pro at a shop like Steve-O. The hub has to get up on the machine press some how.

Taking off the hub is pretty straight forward, its like taking off the axel but with everything else around it. Soo like take out the cotter pins on the 17mm castle nuts with some cutter plyers and take em off with a 17mm socket and rachet. Then i think you need a 10/12mm socket for the brake line holder and i think a 14mm to remove the caliper. Oh yeahh thats right used a pitle fork to help pop out the bushing from the A-arm on the hub at the top.

Pushing the bearing back in with the axle nut is great idea but unfortunately it wont work. Because in order to press in the bearing with the axel nut you need to place the spindle hole thing on top of it, This then wont allow you to put the c-clip back in. Beacuse the spindle part will aready be pressed in on top of it ...after you get it pressed in.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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I've replaced wheel studs on my Teg spindles before I installed years ago.......

I hammered the hub out, replaced the wheel studs, hammered the hub back into the bearing, even repacked the bearings while they were apart.

NOT FUN, now have a dieing LF wheelbearing........but now have access to TWO 20 ton presses.....
 

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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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3,364 Posts
Im pretty sure you have too, even if you work like a pro at a shop like Steve-O. The hub has to get up on the machine press some how.

Taking off the hub is pretty straight forward, its like taking off the axel but with everything else around it. Soo like take out the cotter pins on the 17mm castle nuts with some cutter plyers and take em off with a 17mm socket and rachet. Then i think you need a 10/12mm socket for the brake line holder and i think a 14mm to remove the caliper. Oh yeahh thats right used a pitle fork to help pop out the bushing from the A-arm on the hub at the top.

Pushing the bearing back in with the axle nut is great idea but unfortunately it wont work. Because in order to press in the bearing with the axel nut you need to place the spindle hole thing on top of it, This then wont allow you to put the c-clip back in. Beacuse the spindle part will aready be pressed in on top of it ...after you get it pressed in.
sorry man, i wasn't tryin to flame anyone who can do it without a press or a shop. i guess i should have stressed it's not as easy :D. regardless, :beer: to you for doing it at a disadvantage :TU: :TU:

* * FACT * *
working in a shop WILL SPOIL YOU to death, so fair warning to those about to get into one ;) :p
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My work has a press but I didnt have access to it this weekend thats why I was just gonna try and do it without

I'll just hold off on changing it til during the week when I can have at that press

Id like to know the best/easiest way to press it in and out though

The press Im going to be using is basically just to flat surfaces that squish together, how I can make that press the bearing out I dont know


I believe its a 6ton
 

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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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My work has a press but I didnt have access to it this weekend thats why I was just gonna try and do it without

I'll just hold off on changing it til during the week when I can have at that press

Id like to know the best/easiest way to press it in and out though

The press Im going to be using is basically just to flat surfaces that squish together, how I can make that press the bearing out I dont know


I believe its a 6ton
at work we use the dies and hollow rings from a HubTamer Elite wheel bearing kit (it's meant to do wheel bearings and hub right on the car while it's on the hoist but we use the dies and rings for our press).

u will need hollow rings to support the knuckle and allow the bearing to pass thru and then various sized dies (or large sockets of the same diameter) to press it in.

sorry, i know it's not the best explanation because there are different ways to go about it due to the fact that there are different combinations of dies, rings and supports depending on the orientation, size and configuration of the press being used. so it's hard to say one way or the other.
 

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Yeah man I thought I didnt have to take the hub off the car in order to get this bearing out someone said

I dont know how to get to the bearing if you can explain that part. And if theres a way to do everything without taking every single thing apart Id love to that that aswell being as I have little tools

Its hard to explain but I dont even know what Im going to be looking at/for as Ive never torn my assembly down that far

Is there not a way to push the wheel bearing back in with the axle nut?

Thanks very much man
you have another choice instead of changing out the bearing...change out the whole hub. there's plenty of cheap hubs @ the junkyard w/ good bearings still.

you shouldn't need that many tools to take the hub off the car. this what you need to take off:
1. brake caliper/bracket & disc - 12mm, 14mm or 17mm socket can't remember (i have an impact screwdriver that loosens the 2 screws on the disc)
2. axle nut - 22mm socket (you can loosen the nut w/ a big breaker bar & w/ the car on wheels on the ground. this will help the wheel assy from spinning when you're trying to break the nut loose...you can "borrow" an axle socket set from @ murray's, autozone, advance auto, etc.)
3. top ball joint (undo the castle nut - i believe 10mm...you can "borrow" the ball joint removal tools @ murray's, autozone, advance auto, etc. i'm not talking about a pickle fork...i'm talking about something that's essentially a 2 jaw puller that pushes the ball joint out from the hub. it makes the job goes so much quicker!!)
4. bottom ball joint - 12mm socket (same as above)
5. outer tie rod (ditto)
and that's it...it's out. i would recommend to just go to a shop & have them press the bearing out & in. it shouldn't cost you that much since the hub is out already.
 

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88 ED6
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I can tell you took that from the manual;

The axle nut is not 22mm, the shaft diameter is though(the axle nut is 32 mm, or 36mm socket for the Type-R and Prelude/Accords).

Bottom nut is 17mm socket

Caliper bolts are 14mm IIRC.

I replaced the whole knuckles on my car(except I upgraded from standard/DX to EX), $50 per side from the junkyard(no brake caliper though). Also, there's a 50% chance the ball joint will be fucked from the junkyard people using a pickle fork, so may have to replace that(not too expensive, you can swap lbj from your old knuckles).
 

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I can tell you took that from the manual;

The axle nut is not 22mm, the shaft diameter is though(the axle nut is 32 mm, or 36mm socket for the Type-R and Prelude/Accords).

Bottom nut is 17mm socket

Caliper bolts are 14mm IIRC.

I replaced the whole knuckles on my car(except I upgraded from standard/DX to EX), $50 per side from the junkyard(no brake caliper though). Also, there's a 50% chance the ball joint will be fucked from the junkyard people using a pickle fork, so may have to replace that(not too expensive, you can swap lbj from your old knuckles).
thanks for the correction...i didn't remember what socket size(s) were. and i just did it last week too.
 
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