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1971 VW Super Beetle
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Discussion Starter #1
I had my oil pump checked and ported by Dustin at Performance Porting and he did a phenomenal job. :TU: Well yesterday I got started building my DOHC ZC. The only thing I had to do to get my oil pump ready for my motor was install the screws on the to hold the pump cover on. I took some pictures like I normally do but this time I actually wasn't too lazy to do something with them. :p

To begin the torque spec from the service manual (for some reason when I upload it photobucket resizes the picture smaller so sorry if it is hard to read):


Factory Service Manual said:
6 x 1.0 mm
7 N·m (0.7 kg·m, 5 lb-ft)
I searched around some to see if I really need thread locker on my screws. The internet provided mixed results. So I looked it up in the factory service manual:

Factory Service Manual said:
17. Reassemble the oil pump, applying locking fluid to the pump housing screws.
Now that I knew what the torque value was and that I did need thread locker I wondered what kind of thread locker. I was debating between blue and red Loctite so I looked up their holding capacity:

Technical Data Sheet for LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242®
Technical Data Sheet for LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242® said:
Breakaway Torque (ISO 10964):
3/8 X 16 steel nuts (grade 2) and bolts (grade 5) 70 to 150 lb·in (7.9 to 17 N·m)

Prevail Torque (ISO 10964):
3/8 x 16 steel nuts (grade 2) and bolts (grade 5) 25 to 60 lb·in (2.8 to 6.8 N·m)
versus

Technical Data Sheet for LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER RED 271™
Technical Data Sheet for LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER RED 271™ said:
Breakaway Torque:
3/8 X 16 steel nuts (grade 2) and bolts (grade 5) 150 to 300 lb·in (16.9 to 34 N·m)

Prevail Torque:
3/8 X 16 steel nuts (grade 2) and bolts (grade 5) 200 to 355 lb·in (22.6 to 40 N·m)
It seemed like an obvious choice. The blue is on par with the torque spec of the screw where as the red is something like 6 times more. I personally do not want to break those Phillips screws loose if they're holding at 30 lb-ft.

I got started by clamping my oil pump to the wooden work bench outside. Though, a proper table vice would probably be better. I then cleaned the screw threads by turning the screw in a microfiber cloth soaked in mineral spirits.

I then put a few drops near the tip of the screw (this pictures turned out really well for a phone camera.)
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content


I continued by screwing it all the way in with a screw driver, nothing special.


Quickly I took the Phillips bit out of the screw driver and placed it into a 1/4th socket attached to my torque wrench.


I did not have enough hands to get a proper picture of this part. However, all I did was place my left hand over the end of the torque wrench so that I could put some pressure on it so that the Phillips bit didn't jump out of the screw. While I used my right hand to operate the torque wrench and torque the screw to 5 lb-ft.


Rinse and repeat 5 more times and you're good to go! Perhaps I can update this Thursday with some more pictures because seeing how something is done is usually better than reading how something is done.
 

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1971 VW Super Beetle
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1,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I like how you showed your whole thinking/searching process.

This should be a sticky not only for the great info, but a guide for noobs and problem solving lol.
I tweaked my thinking/searching process slightly from how it actually happened in reality since some of the information I had a better grasp on then I made it seem in the write-up but I thought it was a pretty neat approach to explaining everything. Like the Loctite, I read the back of the red at the auto parts store and used an unit converter on my phone to figure out that information but felt it was easier to just link the technical specification sheets for the write-up.

I never use a torque wrench, just my cordless drill with phillips head because none of my torque wrenches go that low. Good job on using the correct units ( lb-ft ). +rep
I would like to get a 1/4th inch drive torque wrench. My 3/8ths inch drive wrench (pictured) has a graduation for 5 lb-ft but I feel that something smaller would give a more accurate torque for small things like that and the plethora of other small fasteners on our engines. I was looking up the units of measure while writing this and found that it is actually lb-ft and Honda didn't have it backwards so I will start using that from now on. It makes more sense anyway: 5 lb-ft (pounds per foot) vs 5ft-lb (5 feet per pound) lol.
 

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1991 Honda CRX
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3,714 Posts
I was looking up the units of measure while writing this and found that it is actually lb-ft and Honda didn't have it backwards so I will start using that from now on. It makes more sense anyway: 5 lb-ft (pounds per foot) vs 5ft-lb (5 feet per pound) lol.
Yeah, I always knew it was lb-ft but all my stupid high school teachers said no. Then in college physics/engineering they said I was right. Torque 101:

Tau (greek for torque) = displacement vector x force vector

Then depending on the angle sine theta gets thrown in and someother factors.

You then get the unit Nm, which is Newton (force) per meter (displacement) and somehow alot of americans got feet(displacement) per pound (force). If you have force acting on an object, how can you have differing displacements? Honda always knows what's up :D


What's the DOHC ZC build? Is that just a A6/Z6 oil pump or a DOHC ZC P29?
 

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1971 VW Super Beetle
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1,107 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
What's the DOHC ZC build? Is that just a A6/Z6 oil pump or a DOHC ZC P29?
The crank from the DOHC ZC I bought had to be turned so I opted to use one of my other crankshafts. It is a d16y crankshaft that I had checked and polished at the machine shop back in 2011 which I pulled out of a d16z6.

It is actually a d15b1/d15b8 oil pump, but it was pulled off of a d16z6 I had bought. I don't know wtf is up with all these z6s not having z6 parts but whatever. The DOHC ZC oil pick up was littered with metallic debris so I figured the oil pump may not be in that great of shape. I also had already cleaned this pump and checked the clearances on that pump (based on the factory service manual) and it checked out. It appears identical to an a6/z6 pump other than p01 cast into it. So I had it ported as a just in case for the d16y crankshaft.

Once I get more progress done on my DOHC ZC I'll make a build thread for it.
 

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Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI hb
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1,880 Posts
I'll snap some pictures when I get home. Can't show you the port inside anymore since I just closed it for good. Though, I think pictures of the inlet and outlet will suffice.
Damn you! *shakes fist*, shake harder boy.....
 

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ministry of mayhem!
93 honda integra
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5,673 Posts
nice job, sir. repped.
 

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1971 VW Super Beetle
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Discussion Starter #14

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Premium Member
92 civic cx hatch
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1,012 Posts
im rebuilding my daily driver at the moment that i just picked up and as soon as i get my new oem pump i will do a write up on how to fully port a honda oil pump with full pictures
 
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