ok.yo danz will you make another thread in the DIY? maybe this can become a sticky.
imho this is the best det can, because its cheap, simple, and super easy to construct. not to mention reliable (no electronics involved).
the only tricky part may be finding a mechanics stethoscope. use the PN provided to help.
ive never used the ear muff style, but my friend atticus (a member here) has tried both. the stethoscope ear buds work WAY better. and i can vouch they work exceptionally well.
taken from my build thread:
well, ive been tuning the car a little here and there, and ive made some changes from the dyno tune i had done in july. mostly for the track running some "race gas"..
but this is something every boosted honda owner should have...
even if you get a dyno tune, you might still experience detonation. so its always good to take a listen and see if there is anything going on. especially with obd0 and limited tuning options.
3/8 barbed fitting
mechanics stethoscope (included with the stethoscope is the grey Y tube and the ear fittings...) PN: Lisle's 52500
9 feet of 3/8ths hose (i used fuel line hose, 6ft might get it done)
8-12inches of copper tube
wrench to bolt copper tube to block
blade to cut hose
drill to make mount hole in copper tube
first you need a mechanics stethoscope.
princess auto special. (try HF if you are American)
take your copper pipe and hammer about 3 inches of one end flat. fold that new flat section in half with your hammer and vice and hammer it flat once more. now you should have 4 layers of copper, which will be nice and sturdy and transmit vibrations well
drill a hole in the middle of the flattened part of your copper tube so you can bolt it to the block. drill the hole with an 8mm or slightly larger drill bit if u plan to mount in the same place as me...
put the pipe back in the vice, this time with the round end up. cut a slit into the tube so you can spread the tube a little to slide the 3/8ths line inside. give it a decently deep cut. if you don't go deep enough, the tube will kink when you try to pry it open a bit.
slide hose clamp over copper, wiggle the 3/8ths line into the copper pipe, and clamp it down with the hose clamp. it should hold very well.
now you should have something that looks like this
i chose to run the line into the cabin through my access hatch. lol. im not sure if EG/EK's have this or not. EF's do! otherwise, run it out of your engine bay through your window.
edit; those connectors are just to make the wide band removable! all connections soldered!!!
now take your hose, jam in the barbed fitting, and stretch the grey tube over the barbed fitting. it should be easy. add some lube if needed. its going to need to stretch a bit, but trust me, itll be fine. A 10 yearold girl could do it.
try to bolt the copper tube as close to the top of the block as you can. where i have mine bolted is the most common place.
This works really well. Ive never tried the det can setup with the construction ear muffs but there is virtually no way that setup could work better than this. my only beef is when the rad fan comes on, it gets a bit noisy.
i would say its well worth having 1 connection to T off the hose to each ear. its very clear with both buds hooked up and all outside noise cancelled out. having the buds in your ear also makes a direct path for the sound waves. there is no where for the waves to go other that right to your ear drums making for a very concise tool.
Im able to run at the track with this. only because it goes through the firewall. no open windows. keep that in mind.
the connections arnt a problem. i used 3/8ths the whole way, up to the grey T tube that came with the stethoscope (which is just a slight bit tigher)
i fold it at the tip so its beefier to mount, and to make sure the tube is closed. if the tube is open on one end the sound waves will just go out that side.
the down side of the construction muffs is the hose doesnt go directly into the ear drum, it sits a few CM away. but with these, when the buds are in your ears, they cancel out all outside noise. it makes for super clear audio.
when i swapped in my GM 3 bar i was able to detect detonation, and retarded the timing accordingly.
(its kinda funny, cars with no muffler are REAALLY loud through it when they are infront of you... heheh)