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Discussion Starter #1
This DIY is being done on a DC2 GSR, and should be the same for the "EG/EH" hatchbacks and very similar on EF's/EK's.

NOTE: I am not going to go through the whole procedure of removing your rear seats, front seats, rear plastics (optional), and carpet ect. It is fairly strait forward and you will need to do this.


Parts needed:

-socket wrench
-12mm socket
-phillips head screw driver small and large head
-Hard plastic mallet
-Trash Bag
-Heavy duty paint scrapper
-Dry Ice (pelletized is best, but you can get away with block like I did)
-Eye protection
-Gloves

PROCEDURE

-I will start assuming you have removed all pieces necc. to give you access to the bare floor (if you need details on how to remove certain pieces just ask) just remove all this




Empty rear of car.. the darker sections in the trunk and under seats that looks like a hard tar is the sound deadening material.





-After removal take your dry ice and spead it out over a section of sound deadening materail, do not do to much of the area at a time and try to cover as much of the materail as you can. YOU WANT THIS STUFF TO GET COLD!
(handle with gloves, this is not frozen water it is a chemical and will burn you, it is app. 7X colder than the freezing point of water)

- Let the dry ice do its job and let it sit on the section for several minutes. A good indication it is cold enough is that section will begin to moan and creek (depending on outside temp.) and will get very hard and possible shrink a little. There is capital I shaped stamping in the material that allows it to change shape during weather variations and these will close up for the most part.

pic. of ice in action-- you may need smaller chunks for helping to freeze the curved setions-- you can see the I's I am talking about that are stamped into the material.






-Once a section is good and frozen use your hands first to try and peel/lift the large easy sections up. Then if you must resort to a metal paint scraper and plastic mallet, a small flat head may help in some situations. Collect all pieces and put them in a plastic trashbag, this will cut down on flying shrapnel and clean up will be easier.






-I worked my way from back to front. There is a "rubber mat" type under the dash that cuts engine noise and that was quite heavy aswell, but most of it can be removed with careful cutting and tugging
 

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Discussion Starter #2
here is some pics taken later that day, including post roll bar install and painting of trunk area.







-I put all of the sound deadening material I removed in one single contractor trash bag, and I would guess it was about 27lbs give or take a few.

Feel free to ask questions. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
basicly most of the work is pulling the interior.
The dry ice does its own thing, How long did it take to pull all of it out after the
dry ice was applied?
The interior is extremely easy to pull in these cars.. Id say its removing the stubborn parts is where the times at.

Id say 5-8hrs of work for the whole thing.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I missed the write up... I actually did this a few months ago and Im just now getting around to making a thread about it somewhere :wacko:
 

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I order ~200lbs of dry ice pellets at work weekly. yay for free dry ice. :bigok:
 

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ok so after removing this you do what exactly? i would rather have sound dampening material in my car ( i hate road noise) so do you do this then put in your own material or is this just a weight reduction DIY for track use?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok so after removing this you do what exactly? i would rather have sound dampening material in my car ( i hate road noise) so do you do this then put in your own material or is this just a weight reduction DIY for track use?

This is for the purpose of removing weight from the car, its about 30lbs when ALL material is removed... if you dont like road noise you will not want to do this. I can hear every single pebble or tire booger that is flicked up by my tires.
 

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i did this in my old coupe then put down truck bedliner to kinda have a happy medium between sound and weight

granted the deadening ability depends on mass mostly so the liner prob did little to nothing
 

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take out the factory tar and replace it with a good material like fat mat. The overall difference in weight will be very minor but with the mat in there it will be much better than the tar.
 

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take out the factory tar and replace it with a good material like fat mat. The overall difference in weight will be very minor but with the mat in there it will be much better than the tar.
I thought fat mat was tar on aluminum sheets?
 

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I used anti freeze when my heater core leaked it was perfect. Came right up pulled the drain plug and washed it out. Looks clean as shit and dont smell like anti freeze
 

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Discussion Starter #20
^Thank you sir.


take out the factory tar and replace it with a good material like fat mat. The overall difference in weight will be very minor but with the mat in there it will be much better than the tar.
I dont know what fat mat is but it sounds like a lot of work for almost no gain, stock hondas and acuras with all seats and carpet with factory sound deadening are pretty quiet IMO... but if you wanna do it by all means go for it..
 
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