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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since I now have a EH, and a few people has been asking about the EG/EH s2000 cluster swap, here is a quick DIY.

This is for a AP1 S200 Cluster. On this s2k cluster i didn't get the pigtails with it so i made my own this time. You can do it any way you like but i chose to do mine this way to get rid of the three plugs. I made it all into one.

You can get the following pats that i used at Radio Shack.

22 gauge Wire
Pin Connectors (I couldn't find these at RS but my dad is an Computer Tech so he gave me the Connectors)
Male/Female 25-Pin D-Sub Connector
22/18/16 gauge shrink tubing
Soldering tools

There are three sizes pin connectors. I don't know the official name for them so i call them Small, Medium, and Large.



First i soldered some material onto all of the d-sub connectors. I then cut about 6" of 22g wire and stripped the tip of each wire. Now reheat the solder that's on the d-sub, once the solder starts to melt push the wire into the connector. Finish all of them and slide the shrink tubing on all the wires to ensure none are touching.









Repeat the all the steps for the male/female side which ever one you have left to do. It should look something like this when finished.







SInce you made your own harness just make sure you label the wire and follow this wiring Diagram:

This is the pinout for the AP1 Cluster:

Connector A ----------------------------------------------- EG harness

EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG EG


AP1 Harness ------------------------------------------------EG/EH Harness
1 BLU/RED (Seat belt reminder) --------------------------- BLU/WHT (B10 Seatbelt Light)

4 PNK (SRS) CONNECT TO +12V power (A10 IGNTION POWER) TO TURN OFF LIGHT (or correct wire if you have it)

6 YEL (Fuse 5) ------ONLY IN CANADA-ONLY IN CANADA-------- BLK/YEL (A10 IGNITION Power)

7 GRN/RED (Left turn signal (+)) ------------------------- GRN/BLU (A4 Left Turn) WORKS

8 GRN/YEL (Right turn signal (+))------------------------- GRN/BLU (A3 RightTurn) WORKS

9 RED/WHT (High beam (+)) -------------------------------- RED/GRN (B1 Highbeam) WORKS

If positive trigger high beam Connect A10 to ground, A9 to switch. If trigger to ground, Connect A9 to Power and A10 to switch. Probably situation 1.

10 RED/BLU (High beam (-)) ------------------------------- BLK (B6 Ground)

11 BLU/BLK (Trunk indicator) ----------------------------- GRN (B9 Trunk Open) WORKS


Connector B

2 RED/YEL (Fuse 45) -------------------------------------- BLK/YEL (A10 Power)

OK, B2 doesn't seem to do ANYTHING. I guess hook it up, I'll look for more details tomorrow.

B3 is the switch between bright and dim. I would connect it to (red/black A11 Gauge Lights)

3 RED/BLK (Circuit 11 – dash and console lights (+)) ----- +12 dims the cluster, so A11 or A12, someone test and I'll edit this.

4 YEL (Fuse 5) ------------------------------------------- BLK/YEL (A10 IGNITION Power)

5 WHT/RED (Fuse 25) -------------------------------------- BLK/YEL (A10 IGNITION Power)

6 GRN (Door Pin Input ground signal) ------------------ Door Pin Switch I can't Find

8 BLK (Ground) ------------------------------------------- BLK (B6 Ground)

9 BLK (Ground) ------------------------------------------- BLK (B6 Ground)

10 RED (Circuit 12 – dash and console lights (-)) -------- BLK (B6 Ground)

Connector C

1 Wht/Blk VSS OUTPUT ------------------------------- Use to connect to regular speedo if ya want. Step down from high pulse rate to regular pulse rate.

3 BLU/WHT (Vehicle speed signal input (-)) --------------- Connect to VSS Converter

5 BLU (RPM signal input) --------------------------------- BLU (A8 Tachometer) Should Work

7 YEL/GRN (Coolant temp input) --------------------------- Connect to ECT Converter

8 YEL/BLK (Fuel gauge signal input) ---------------------- YEL/WHT (A1 Fuel Gauge) Should Work

15 BLU/YEL (Cruise control indicator (-)) ---------------- Cruise Control I can't find, Probably Red with a Blu stripe.. Maybe B3 Probably dont have cruise control WORKS

Connector D

8 BLU/RED (ABS indicator input) Connect to GROUND to turn off light or correct wire if you have it.

9 GRN/WHT (E-brake indicator) ---------------------------- GRN/RED (B2 Brake Light) WORKS

11 WHT/BLU (Charging system indicator (-)) --------------- WHT/BLU (A5 Charging Light) WORKS
(both batt and brake lights come on.)

12 BLK/YEL (Fuse 6) -------------------------------------- BLK/YEL (A10 IGNITION Power)

13 YEL/RED (Engine oil pressure switch input (-)) -------- YEL/RED (A6 Oil Pressure) WORKS

14 GRN/ORN (Malfunction indicator light (-)) ------------- GRN/ORG (B5 MIL Lamp) WORKS

16 WHT/RED (Fuse 25) ------------------------------------- BLK/YEL (A10 IGNITION Power)

Mind you you have to have some understanding of wires and common sense. This is not a total walk through but it does give you an idea of what to expect.

I am not totally finish cause it's still cold out but the bezel will be cut out and bolted in and all wired up. Look out for an update.

PS, Look out for my DIY Wire tuck. I might be using the same D-Sub connectors if it's not too difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Solder the Pin connectors onto the wire. I divided the D-Sub into four separate groups, each group for each plug (a/b/c/d), so that i wouldn't get confused.



Before i plugged the pins in i shrink wrapped them first then plugged it into the cluster to make sure they're not touching each other.
Follow the above diagram and plug everything in. You will have to double/triple up some wires so you will have enough for the rest.

Once that is done it should look like this.







When it gets a bit warmer here I can finish the install and make the bezel.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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me thinks it would have been easier if it wasnt a sea of yellow wires lol
 

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help.....
did this conversion and everything works! then went for the ride with my gps to do my final cal. on the speedo healer stopped got gas,reset trip a and trip b, pulled out and speedo was on 0. stopped checked wiring and my big feet pulled power wire out of fuse panel. got back in car started it..drove home. figured out my settings. programmed and now the odometer wont work. WOULD ME DRIVING THIS FOR 6-9 MILES WITHOUT THE SPEEDOMETER WORKING DO THIS? anyway for me to reset this? wen i turn keey on i see 000000 then just goes dark on odometer.
 

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More pictures from the intall, and the Speedohaler instal and Thermo converter install when its possible.
Or someone has an ideo to do this whit lower cost, then please write it.
 

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Great DIY.

I know there is a company who is now offering a complete P&P version as well, but this is definitely the more economic route .
 
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