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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of installing a cage in my CRX, I know its not D-series but its still a bit of something to share.

Just thought I would show off some of the installation pictures, as far as we've gotten so far. I work a regular 9-5 too so its small steps at a time.

Also I'm working on a 14b HMT setup for my coupe, a b18a1 turbo setup for my crx, and building a turbo manifold for a friend all at once.

Anyways, here are the pics of what I've got so far. This was more a work of custom stuff than an attempt at getting it all perfectly nhra legal and what not. I am sure that I will still get away with 11's though.

These are basically just the side rails, there will be way more tubework, and these will intersect with the main hoop.

Stage 1 continues - The Cage Begins

This is the makings of the main hoop sitting outside the car


These next two are the side rails being mocked up, we didn't get much done tonite after a full day at work. These will be split to allow the main hoop to pass through, somewhere near the bend by the door




This shows the slight bend and the foot of the sidebars, we opted to do this so it would be easier to center on a plate, yet we could get the upper portion of the bar as close to the door as possible.


Shot of both sidebars just sitting mocked in place, you can see the main hoops oversized base plate, the main hoop leans back to meet the bend above it, then heads straight up to match the doorline


Rear view of one side bar.


Rear view both sides in place


Next session at the shop we should get the bars coped out and start welding some stuff together. I'll post more as soon as I have some.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
civic90ex said:
cool, hurry up and finish it ;)
trust me i really want to. moving and being sick and all that shit has really gotten in the way.
 

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Curious George
'99 LX Civic Sedan
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Nice pipe bending but your far away from ending your cage yet ! Cage in a car must have a minimum of 6 attaching points, or more and braced between tubing. I already made one for my old VW with nitrous setup, and was X-Y braced, welded to solid frame, so it was a tank. I see your attachements in front should be more near to wheel tab or upper shock tower (if you can pass pipe in the upper dash area..) it's there we have thick material.

Post your next pic soon :)
 
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Discussion Starter #5
this is barely the beginning. There will be a ton more tubework, and that is about as far forward as I could go up with the bars, without getting in the way of my driving, and i wanted the passenger side the same.

I'm not a little fella.

I should get going on this again soon, so I'll get more pics n stuff up.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
When do I need a roll bar or roll cage, and what should it look like?
A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.99 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.99. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:



If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:
NRHA Roll Bar



The roll cage of any vehicle running 9.99 or quicker, or 135 mph or faster, must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation.
 

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nice....
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.99 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.99
Check the rules, the 11.99 has been dropped to 11.49, now same as IHRA.

As always, check with your local track first.
 

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Nice~I will be doing that some day when I build me a trailer Queen~
 

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What kind of tubing bender do you use? I have found some ideas for a DIY bender that appears to be a sound design that is very functional. I can probably construct one for $300-350 which is damn cheap! And that will include 1 die. Anyway, I am just curious, sometimes I think I like the tools of the trade more than the actual driving.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
araychel said:
What kind of tubing bender do you use? I have found some ideas for a DIY bender that appears to be a sound design that is very functional. I can probably construct one for $300-350 which is damn cheap! And that will include 1 die. Anyway, I am just curious, sometimes I think I like the tools of the trade more than the actual driving.

this is a basic hand driven press bender.

makes cleaner bends than the hydraulic one at work I use in my opinion. Think it crushes less cause it moves slower.
 
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