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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1. Drop the transmission.

2. Remove clutch and flywheel.

3. Drain your oil.

4. Drill a small hole into the seal. Be very careful not to drill anything but the seal. Then drive a screw in just enough for it to grip the seal and pull it out with some pliers.


5. Clean the area. I sprayed a little brake cleaner on my rag. I didn't try to use sandpaper because with the plate still in place, I didn't want any grit to get in the engine or mess up the new seal.


6. Open your new seal. You might as well shell out a few extra bucks for an OEM seal from the dealership. That book in the background comes in pretty handy sometimes, too.


7. Lubricate the outer edge of the seal with motor oil.


8. Gently tap the seal in. Take your time and keep it as even as possible as it goes in. Do not hit it hard. Pay attention to how deep it is. You don't want to pound it in so much that it starts to bend and break the seal. Use the old seal on top of the old one to help. I find that it works better if you hold the old seal upside down.


9. Admire your new seal.
 

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1992 Civic Si
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1,671 Posts
I do this a lot at work :)

Saves a loooot of time, and when flat rate, that's gold.

What I do for installing though, is I use a seal slipper to get it on the crank before driving it on. I just made one by mashing an old screwdriver made of cheap metal with a hammer. Basically need a spoon shape with dull edges.
 

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95 civic coupe
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1,358 Posts
Hahaha. Nice! I've never tried it like that before since I've always replace it while the motor is apart. :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I wasn't planning on replacing this seal. I'm working on the transmission and noticed a small leak. It was either really slow or only dripped when I was driving because the pavement under my car was clean. Oh well, I couldn't just leave it that way with the transmission already out. But I didn't feel like doing the oil pan. My transmisson project is getting longer and longer with each new problem I discover along the way.
 

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95 civic coupe
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1,358 Posts
Yeah, I wasn't planning on replacing this seal. I'm working on the transmission and noticed a small leak. It was either really slow or only dripped when I was driving because the pavement under my car was clean. Oh well, I couldn't just leave it that way with the transmission already out. But I didn't feel like doing the oil pan. My transmisson project is getting longer and longer with each new problem I discover along the way.
Yeah it's nothing like replacing axle seals better do it now than do it again later.
 

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1995 EJ1 EX
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26 Posts
Man, I just found out that I needed to do this after converting my ej1 to 5 speed...now I gotta pull everything apart in the not too distant future... (to note: there wasn't any apparent leak from the seal until AFTER i cleaned the area prior to installation of the trans...only figured it out after i got it on the road...and found drips of oil coming from the inspection plate weep hole) ...just my luck.
 

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90 crx si/96 accord
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788 Posts
I do this a lot at work :)

Saves a loooot of time, and when flat rate, that's gold.

What I do for installing though, is I use a seal slipper to get it on the crank before driving it on. I just made one by mashing an old screwdriver made of cheap metal with a hammer. Basically need a spoon shape with dull edges.
Da fuq???? Pic ?
 

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90 crx si/96 accord
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788 Posts
I thought that's what you were talking about! Commonly used in auto trans rebuild for the servo seal!

In school our instructors had us make our own using brake line and welding wire!

I'm gonna remember this next time I'm doing a seal!
Rep for you!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Maybe I'm dense, but I don't see how that would help with installing the rear main seal. It's not like it's that hard to tap in anyway.
 

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1992 Civic Si
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Just makes sure it goes on the crank in a nice controlled manner. It's pretty easy to accidentally mash the lip of the seal.
 

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Should have done this just for comfort when my motor was out but I wanted to start driving the car. Maybe when it warms up and I pull it out again to clean the bay. Thanks for the writeup. Thought it would be more tricky
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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2,936 Posts
Never done this on a D but I'm pretty sure you don't need to drain the oil.

When I replaced the clutch and rear main seal in the RSX, only a few ounces of oil dribbled out.
 

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Just makes sure it goes on the crank in a nice controlled manner. It's pretty easy to accidentally mash the lip of the seal.
Yeah, and you may not notice you damaged the seal until everything is put back together and it is dripping oil.
 

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Man, I just found out that I needed to do this after converting my ej1 to 5 speed...now I gotta pull everything apart in the not too distant future... (to note: there wasn't any apparent leak from the seal until AFTER i cleaned the area prior to installation of the trans...only figured it out after i got it on the road...and found drips of oil coming from the inspection plate weep hole) ...just my luck.
This is why I always recommend doing maintenance when getting into "hard-to-reach" places.
 
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