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Crx
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I guess after putzing around here for the last 8 years I should add something to the diy forum so here goes! pardon the bad pics I am not a photographer. Any how, I got into powder coating about a year ago and have found it to be fairly cheap and easy, not to mention how great the final parts turn out. Powder coating is fairly indestructable to say the least, Ive had to sandblast 1 part back off so far to redo it, took almost 3 Hours... It was a small little braket to!! Heres what ya need to start:

The gun setup : I have the basic Eastwood gun. cost $80. I think I will try the dual voltage setup in the near future. Cost twice as much but when you want to do 2-3 coats/clears/metallics/chromes you need more juice

Air Compressor : If your sand blasting you need a good compressor, if not a small 5/10 gallon is plenty just for painting.

Oven : To cure the parts. I started off with a $20 toaster oven. Works good for practicing! when you want to start doing Valvecovers and rims etc.. youll need something bigger! Stick with electric, you can use gas but certain steps need to be taken so the paint fumes are not ignited by the pilot light. Don't Use the oven in your kitchen! well, you can but when your baking off oily parts your whole house will frikin stink. Plus your wife will probly kill you.

Other accesories that will help alot but not needed, Sand blaster, Temp. Gun. You will want to pick up a roll of wire for hanging parts, high temp tape for fancy work, a bottle of acetone or paint thinner for cleaning parts off.

LETS GET STARTED!!!

Pick your part, I did my valve cover last week so I figured id redo the windsheild wipers today, paint fallin off, look like hell
so if your luck like me and have a blast cabinet send the part through! otherwise you'll need to sand or strip the part by hand. wire wheel on a drill helps out too. Heres my cabinet, can fit about anything in it

Ok, now that the part is clean theres a few things to do yet. After sand blasting I dunk the part in a bucket of soap/hot water and scrub all the sand and crap off with a brush. Now,
1. If you have a steel part hang it up to dry/ blow it off with a blow gun. then wipe it down with acetone or paint thinner. Ready for paint!
2. If your part is aluminum or any other soft porouse metal we will need to bake it out first. reason is, oils and dirt are trapped in the part and will ruin the paint when it hits the oven. Set the over to about 400+ and let your cleaned part bake in there for awile. If your doing something like our wiper arm here I left it in for 15 minutes. A Valve cover more like a half hour, 45 minutes. The valve covers especially are very oily, There will be smoke coming out of the oven for awile, not alot but like i said, If you do it in your house it will stink horribly!!

Now, Some parts you can bake on a tray, some you will need to hang. What ever works best! Here if am pre baking my parts. You'll want to get everything hung and tested before you spary them to make sure you don't rub the fresh powder off when you slide the part in.
Heres my spray both! Now that your ready to paint, Make sure your surface is clean. Pretty much fire the compressor up and blow it off. Then if your lazy like me and dont clean up youll also have to blow the gun and cup out along with the grounding terminal. Powder Paint does not stick to anything so it is very easy to clean up. If you have a sizeable amount of paint I cut off a roll of butcher paper and layit on the table to catch over spray. In this case i only have about 4 ounces of gloss black left so I will not be keeping over spary. why? As the paint exits the gun the particles become smaller and will not stick after time so.. If you have a good amount off paint mix your overspray back into the fresh supply, If not throw it out. Paint is cheap! So don't shoot yourself in the foot trying to save it.

Now you want to limit the air compressor to about 10psi. I use a blow gun to get it tuned in just right then hook the hose on your gun.

Get the part on the table now. If you are haning it see the pic below, otherwise set it down flat. hook up the ground wire, through a bolt hole or to a hanging wire. the is and activation switch you will need to hold down with one hand and pull the trigger with the other. Keep spraying till the part is uniform.

Here it is sprayed. I used about 2 ounces, 1 ounce probly in overspray.Plastic shot glasses work awesome for measuring and loading the cup, fiy. My hanging method didn't work very well here. You want to be able to get close and around the part as much as possible. Hence all the overspray! you need to stay at least an inch away though otherwise there will be a jolt off electricity jolting out of the gun. did it once, but could wreck the whole setup probly.

Spray corners In dips/hard to reach areas first.
Also make sure you have some sort of mask/respirator on when your blasting and painting. You do not want to be breathing this stuff in!!!!

** Rest of the post coming, please wait about a half hour. this is alota work! **
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Now carefully take your part to the oven. I always preheat it right away. Youll need to go by the paint as far as temp and time. This is Caswells i believe Super Gloss black. 375 for 10 minutes is required. So, put the part in and I set the timer for 15 minutes. The part needs to come to temp before you start the 10 minute baking cycle. This is where a temp gun comes in. I don't have one yet so hence i add five extra minute to the timer for the parts to heat up. One the time is up open the door and let it cool. This will take awhile depending on how big the part is. after 5 minutes Ill set a fan towords the oven to help speed things up a bit

Here is the finished deal! pictures cant do it justice. Smooth, Glossy, Look like a million bucks!!



Here they are on the car. They look a little off seeing as the paints all falling off my front end lol but.. thats a winter project! so to hell with it.
Thats about all you need to know! I get my paint from powderbythepound, great service and the have every color imagineable

this is my valve cover i did last week in ice blue explosion


If anyone else want to post there powder'd parts id love to see em. thanks for lookin! Andy
 

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nice diy bro...thx for the email alert im definately gonna try this just gonna have to go out and buy a extra stove. ha ha.
 

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98 Civic CX-T on E85
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My friend and I went in on a powdercoating system 2 years ago and we just bought a 50 full size oven off craigs list to use, works great! I will try to post up pics of what we've done. Also I've found if you if you cool the item off too fast after its done you get more orange peel in the powdercoat, so we usually just turn the oven off after the timer and crack the oven door for about 10 min to let it cool down slower and you get much better results. Where do you get your powder from?? We go through propowdercoating online, they have tons of colors!
 

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Crx
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Discussion Starter #7
paint is usually around $15 a pound. You can do Alot with a pound, probly like 6 sohc valve covers for comparrison. I'll have to look into this cooling thing, I can't say I've noticed any difference but, you could definanately be right. As for paint i go through Powderbuythepound.com typo on my part, sorry.
 

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I believe that if you want to do something, do it well - get equipments that are good - not necessarily the cheapest - to give you great results with repeatability. The 15 and 25kV guns are so passe now. The minimum charging voltage for a decent gun today is 50kV and if you can afford it, go for a 100 kV gun. There are some great ones in the market today. I have heard good things on various forums about the RED LINE EZ50 and EZ100 guns. Any feedback?
 

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I've had an oven, PC gun and paint for almost 3 years now and only used it a few times. I got my electric oven for free off of a local Freecycle site (Yahoo! groups... check into it. In Cincinnati alone, there are about 20. They go by the city, county, area of town, etc. Anything and eveyrthing on there is FREE). The glass top was cracked, but since that had no use to me, I just disassembled the burners so I wouldn't accidently turn them on and mount some old countertop I had onto the top for a sturdy counter. Ovens are great for the smaller jobs; tie bars, VCs, some suspension parts, etc. If I measure right, the largest thing I can get in my oven (again, just a standard kitchen oven) is a 15" rim. Once I find a cheap set, that's on the list as well.

MY gun isn't anything fancy; I got it on sale at Harbor Freight. I figured I'd start with this to see if I liked doing it and upgrade if need be. The paint there is cheap too ($5 a can on sale) but it only comes in red, white, yellow and black.

So far I've only done some brake calipers (they were old and shot and just was playing a bit) and a strut bar. I've got a Y7 VC that I shaved and will be doing next.

One trick I learned from a local guy is that once you have really cleaned off whatever it is you are going to paint, stick it in the over at the lowest temp for a few minutes to burn off any excess on there. That will help ensure you have a clean surface.

And if you are having trouble with the powder sticking, pre-heating the object just a bit will help the paint stick a little better. But its a fine line between sticking and bakin on. I haven't done this yet, so no experience. I've heard its a tough thing to learn, but once you have it down, its a great trick.
 
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