Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was cleaning some parts for my build earlier and when I got to the oil pump (new oem with 5k miles on it) and cleaned it up real nice and while whipping it down I noticed my shop rag was catching on all kinda of edges. I took a closer look and saw your burred/sharp some angles were and thought theres no way that can be good for oil flow, lets port this thing.

I went against shimming the pump as it gives great oil pressure already, 80psi on cold start and 25psi on warm idle. So I didnt want to mess with that. Its very easy to add a .030" thick washer under the spring if you feel its necessary though.

Heres the process to disassemble, what to ports, and reassembly. There are 4 places that the oem pump needed attention on.

* I borrowed some pics for the before porting shots, as someone posted some high res shots *

Oem d16a6 pump rear


Start by removing the 6 screws holding the cover on, they are very tight from the factory, dont use your beat ass screwdriver, use a large screw driver you can get a good grip on, dont strip these screws, push down hard while loosening (I didnt use this screwdriver mine were already loose lol)



And youll be staring at this



Take the 2 internal "gears" out with care and place them aside, the outside ring can go in both ways, but the inner gear can only go in one way because it has a large lip on the inside, so remembering orientation isnt important. Clean everything up real good, should look like this.



Now to take the spring assembly out of the oil pump, simply crack loose the allen bolt at the top and carefully unscrew the cap, BE CAREFUL because it is sprung, it can shoot out and youll loose pieces, hold onto it. This pic shows how the pieces pull out exploded view. The bottom piece is a pain to get out, a magnet reacher thing worked great to go in there and pull it out.





Now time to start porting. Go slow, aluminum can be ripped away very fast, especially with the carbide ball bit I was using, take your time and prepare for a mess of aluminum chips.

I started with the spot that I thought would take the most time, you need to really port and smooth alot of material in this area, not only do you open this hole up, but try and port around the corner, it was one of the sharpest bends on the pump

Before


After
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Before


After


Before




Sorry I kinda only got one pic of both these port holes, the top inlet port where the oil pickup would bolt to, is simply a gasket match job, the old gasket was placed on the pump, sharpied where the aluminum protruded inside the hole so I knew where to port, was very minimal. But the before and after of the other area was quite dramatic, alot of sharp edges on that entry to be smoothed

After


After youve done those steps you are done porting your oil pump. You will have a mess of aluminum chips on you by this point, and need to rinse the hell out of the pump in your hands. I used warm water from a garden hose, then compressed air, then water, then air, then rag, and it was mint. Be VERY thorough, you dont want aluminum chips in here messing up your pump afterwards.

Re-assembly is very straight forward, after cleaning the internal gears I simply lube them up with thick motor oil (can probably use any oil Im not sure), place the outer gear back in its spot, and then the smaller gear inside it with the lip side down, so everything sits flush.

Should look like this

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,098 Posts
MM.. I think the port where it enters the block could have been done better. Also might have benefitted from filling the corner. Also the oil passage on the block should be radiused to match IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Before placing the gear cover back on the pump, make sure both faces are extremely clean. There is no gasket between the pump face and cover, so anything inbetween is going to cause you trouble, wiping them with your fingers Ive always felt is the best way

Place the cover on and get your screws ready. The FSM calls for loctite on these screws, torqued to 5ft lbs. I used blue loctite, and torqued them by hand, to german torque spec, goodentite. Be sure to go in a criss cross pattern, and do a round afterwards to make sure none have become loose due to tightening the other screws.



Since youre rich, might aswell replace the o-ring and pickup gasket since there under $2 from honda, heres the parts number for each.



Good job, youve successfully ported your oil pump. Sleep easy

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
MM.. I think the port where it enters the block could have been done better. Also might have benefitted from filling the corner. Also the oil passage on the block should be radiused to match IMO.
The port where it enters the block isnt the greatest pic, its smoother than it looks, theres no bumps like my pics show, and it was radiused all the way around the corner, no need to file. I took the other side plug off to get in there.

I dont have the block in my possession to see how that port looks, I'll look at it when I get the block back form the machinist to see if it needs some love aswell
 

·
Registered
My civic
Joined
·
2,340 Posts
Im unsure how many ACTUALLY do this, but per helm, the EMPTY oil pump should be filled with petroleum jelly to help aid initial pressure draw. I did it. It worked great.
 

·
Registered
'97 crv
Joined
·
1,467 Posts
I just filled mine with assembly lube. hope that works as well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Im unsure how many ACTUALLY do this, but per helm, the EMPTY oil pump should be filled with petroleum jelly to help aid initial pressure draw. I did it. It worked great.
never knew that, good to know, rep
 

·
Registered
My civic
Joined
·
2,340 Posts
With the aggressive carbide bit I was using, maybe 3-5minutes per hole. The whole job was maybe 45 min with a good cleaning and blow out and re-assembly
About what it took me with a Dremel and sanding drums. Sounds like 45-60min is about the average.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
If you use a bit with small teeth/grit it will definetely clog on aluminum. I only use the aggressive looking ones with bigger teeth for removing metal, and then if I need to (didnt with this bit) you can go over it with misc stone balls to smooth it out

The bit I used for this job was just bought the other day and looks WAY to aggressive but it worked amazingly, I didnt smooth the porting at all after I was done since it came out looking so good. Ill get a pic of the bit
 

·
()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
Joined
·
11,404 Posts
You need single-cut fluted bits. Typical carbide bits are double-cut and meant for hard metals.

Expect to spend $15 per bit on a good carbide bit with a 1/4" shank that is also long enough to work on ports and pumps. You'll also want something with balls to turn the bit, and that is NOT a Dremel.
 

·
Registered
1997 Civic Ex Turbo
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
I look into that, it's weird (maybe the wrong word) seeing aluminum clog up a bit the same way carbon fiber resin clogs up a bit.

Would my 1HP Milwaukee Drill work? lol. I've always used my Dremel for precision work, never "heavy duty" work.
 

·
()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
Joined
·
11,404 Posts
Dremels are a thing I don't use anymore. The new ones are made much worse than the older models, even if they are more fancy looking and feeling in the hand.

Buy a used Foredom or Dumore hanging grinder. Those were the originals that Dremel wanted to make a cheaper version of. I've been through way too many Dremels to ever want to buy them again. I have a used Foredom now that will likely keep working after I die.
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top