Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself, d-series.org nor any Aussie you may know take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Tools Required:
Jack
Jackstands
Impact wrench(optional)
1/2" sockets: 14, 17mm - for using with impact wrench
3/8 Ratchet
3.8 extension
12, 14, 17 mm sockets
17mm open/box end wrench
14mm open/box end wrench
4 or 5mm open/box wrench.
Prybar
Knife

Ok, i think thats enough tools. Lets get started.


And...........GO!!
Make sure you have all your parts to complete job. One strut is missing in the pic because its already installed. :smile:
Jack up vehicle, set on jackstands and remove wheels.




Remove the 2 14mm bolts behind strut as seen in picture

 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Remove 14mm bolt holding botton of strut to control arm



Remove the 2 14mm nuts from the top of the strut in the hatch


Now it is free!! My struts were shot, so there wasnt much pressure left in them. so all i had to do is lay on my side almost under the car, put my knee on top of the drum and apply downward force. at the same time lift up on the strut assembly, compressing it. then pull it out.


Remove the 14mm nut from the top of the strut rod with an impact wrench. if you dont have one, use a pair of pliers or a 4 or 5mm wrench to hold the rod still while you unscrew with the 14mm.
 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Strut in pieces:


Reassemble the spring on the new strut using the new bushings and pin along with the stock dustcover and washer. washers are VERY important, i will explain this later.



Tighten down with 14mm and the 4 or 5mm wrench holding the rod still. the reason i say 4 or 5mm is because i dont remember which it was. lol. BTW, this takes 2 hands, the pic was for reference.
 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Now put the top of the strut back through the mounting holes. use the same method as taking the strut out, lying on your side using your knee to press down on the drum. this time use the prybar to compress the strut assembly and push it back over the control arm. Then re-install the bottom 14mm bolt and the 2 top ones as well.


Now, take the jack and apply pressure to the bottom of the drum so you can push the arm you removed earlier back into position. this will be a little harder because of the pressure from your new strut. get ready to re-install the 2 14mm bolts you removed. dont forget your new ghetto camber kit y0!! Washers own jo0!!



Once you have enough height on the arm, use the ratchet to apply enough pressure on the bolts and start cranking away and get the thread started. tighten these down real good. make sure they wont come loose with your new washers, i mean camber kit.
 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Now time for the fronts. Again, jack up the car, put it on jackstands and pull the wheels.


Use the ratchet and 14mm socket to remove the 2 top nuts holding the strut in place.


Remove the lower bolt in the fork with you impact wrench, 17mm socket, and a 17mm wrench on the other side keeping the nut from spinning.


Next, remove the 14mm bolt on the top of the fork that is connecting it to the strut. Do this while it is in the car. i did it another way, and it was a lot more work. Pull the strut out of the fork and it should come out as a complete assembly fairly easily.
 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Now pull apart the strut like you did in the rear and reassemble using new parts. i didnt use the dustcover because it was a little loose and i was afraid it was going to rattle and i didnt feel like taking it back apart. MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE WASHER even if you dont use the dustcover. i didnt do this the first time and got the whole thing together and after taking it on a test drive found out that because of this the strut rod isnt held down by anything, so it came up out of the hole under the hood and was beating against my hood. i ended up with a little dent because of it. Stupid me.


reinstall the strut back onto the fork the same way you took it off. now alignment is key here. make sure that the top mounting bolts are close to the right position to fit through the holes and go onto the fork, because it is nearly impossible to spin them to go throught the holes when all bolted up. Once the fork is bolted down, push it back up into the holes up top, instll the 2 14mm nuts finger tight. install the bottom 17mm bolt that same way you took it off. Then make sure everything is tight after putting it all back together. bolt the wheels on, and take it for a test drive and feel what its like to be riding on better than OEM struts.
 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Shit, forgot to say, my car is lowered 2", so i cut the bumpstops in half. use half on each strut, not the whole one. that is where the tool: knife comes into play.
 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
the new struts are pretty nice so far. a lot stiffer than the blown stock ones, duh! i inly have about 20 miles on them, so ill write a review when i actually get to test them out a bit
 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
oh also, i didnt need a spring compressor for this job. i have lowering springs so the backs went on no problem. the fronts, i got it all placed together and used 2 hands to push down on the assembly and had my brother start the top nut for me. then i just tightened them all up by hand and they went together fine
 

·
my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
Joined
·
10,488 Posts
ryan89crx said:
Now it is free!! My struts were shot, so there wasnt much pressure left in them. so all i had to do is lay on my side almost under the car, put my knee on top of the drum and apply downward force. at the same time lift up on the strut assembly, compressing it. then pull it out.
LOL. That's the gayest thing I've ever seen. If you remove the compensator arm from the rear trailing arm and the strut from the lower control arm the strut comes right out (The back is way easier). Also DO NOT use a screw drive to put the strut on the lower control arm.
 

·
Lifetime Awesome Member
'89 CRX HF
Joined
·
25,544 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
guest said:
LOL. That's the gayest thing I've ever seen. If you remove the compensator arm from the rear trailing arm and the strut from the lower control arm the strut comes right out (The back is way easier). Also DO NOT use a screw drive to put the strut on the lower control arm.
oh well, this is how i chose to do it. like i said, my struts were shot, so they were easy to compress. so it was actually very easy to do. if you dont like it, i dont give a shit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
910 Posts
ryan89crx said:
oh well, this is how i chose to do it. like i said, my struts were shot, so they were easy to compress. so it was actually very easy to do. if you dont like it, i dont give a shit.
Yeah, hes right...its much easier to unbolt the control arm from the drum. So if you need to do it again, i suggest doing it that way. But good write up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,047 Posts
Nice job Ryan. . .Glad to see you got your HPs. What kind of springs did you go with? Just curious how they ride.


guest said:
LOL. That's the gayest thing I've ever seen. If you remove the compensator arm from the rear trailing arm and the strut from the lower control arm the strut comes right out (The back is way easier). Also DO NOT use a screw drive to put the strut on the lower control arm.
And he did give a DISCLAIMER at the top of the thread. He didn't suggest that this was the only or best way to do the swap out. Give him a break.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,315 Posts
nice write up.... keep me posted on how well they hold up.

mods...from all my reading about struts... springs.. etc etc.. blues are just a step up from stock.. they cant handle a harsh drop and the spring rates of h&r's are way to high for them. i test drove my friends ls turbo on blues and skunk 2 coilovers and the ride is VERY stiff.. very uncomfy for daily driving but a pretty good race suspension. Just depends how u use them.. track is ok.. daily driving .. go wit agx's or illumina's
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top