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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok so i figured a way to hot tank your parts without destroying anything ;)

ok so we tested it out on acouple junk blocks first 2 cracked d15b7s and 1 fried 4g63t block and also did the b7 girdles. heres the video sorry for all the non sense b.s we talk about as of now i upgraded to a 55 gallon barrel which is working wonders and provin to move the process faster.

what you need

the part you want hot tanked
55 gallon barrel is what i recommend or we started off with a big tote and some chicken wire..

battery charger

big box of alpine fresh baking soda

what you do is hook the POS charger to the metal on the outside
hook the Negitive to a piece to the block i usually use a bolt to the trans.

pour 1 cups of alpine fresh baking soda for tote or 2 1/2 on 55 gallon barrel

i let my block sit for a total of 12hrs but will start to see effect immediately..


what it does is draw a negative to the metal on the outside and the positive pulls the rust/grease/grim/dirt off. you will see the process take effect right away all grease and ect. will start to pull to the metal.

BEFORE REMOVING YOUR PARTS UNPLUG YOUR BATTERY CHARGER AND REMOVE THE CABLES! AND REMEMBER WHILE ITS PLUGGED IN DONT LET THE PART HIT THE WALL ON THE OUTSIDE OF METAL WHILE POSITIVE IS HOOKED TO YOUR PART

after done you just take a cloth rag to your part or brush and all grim will come right off. thanks for looking


take a look of a video we made
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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genius!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
this is pretty interesting.

what kind of battery charger do you use, is it a 6 or 12 volt and what amperage did you have it set at ?
we tryed 3 different battery chargers all worked fine on 12 volts and 10 amps
 

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97 honda coupe
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electrolysis at work. not only does it cause the grime/grease to go to the negatively charged body but it also causes parts from EVERYWHERE to move, such as cylinder sleeves, main bores, rods, all that good stuff you want to keep untouched when cleaning.

None the less, cool.
 

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94 Civic Hatch
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electrolysis at work. not only does it cause the grime/grease to go to the negatively charged body but it also causes parts from EVERYWHERE to move, such as cylinder sleeves, main bores, rods, all that good stuff you want to keep untouched when cleaning.

None the less, cool.
wait a minute, it causes them to move like in a bad way ? if thats the case i'd rather just try my steam cleaner lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i put 1 motor together and its running after this so it was fine. and i used some chicken wire from menards its 15 bucks for a big roll
 

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Hot Rodders have been doing this for years. Rep for bringing the idea to the import world.
X2 I have seen this trick work wonders on aluminum and steel. I was told that you can't do copper or brass in that though. I haven't tried it myself but deffinately a good diy
 

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88 ED6
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electrolysis at work.
:werd:

I use it just for rust, and use sodium carbonate instead of baking soda(which is sodium bicarbonate); you can get them from pool supply stores. I also use rebar(instead of wire) and an old PSU instead of a battery charger.

FYI: this is not the same thing as "hot tanking".
 

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97 honda coupe
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I dont really see a huge problem with this method other than the fact that it displaces metal from all surfaces that the water contacts. (and anything that conducts electricity for that matter) I can see using it on a SBC 350 to get rid of heavy rust and scale buildup but i would be very afraid to use it because of the the renound core-shift problems with SBC's. last thing i would want to do is make an allready thin sidewall sleeve thinner. even worse is if it enlarges the lifter-bores... now you have a trash block unless you want to go through alot of machine work.
 

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del Sol si '94
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Good idea but I used oven cleaner and did alot less scrubbing and only took 30 min.
X1000! Walmart has some real good degreaser as well, it wreaks like kerosene or something tho. $1.97/can :bigok:
 
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