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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys I finally took some pictures today of us fixing a dent. I had alot people wanting to know how and the best way so here it is.

Materials:
SandPaper: 180Grit, 400Grit
DA Sander: You dont have to have one but will speed the process up, Get 80Grit paper for it.
Masking Paper and Masking Tape
High-Build Surface Primer: depending on how many dents you need to fix...I always buy a gallon which is around 30 bucks....
1 Gallon of Reducer
Filler: Body Filler(Bondo) once again it depends on how many dents you are fixing....the gallon isnt too high.
Bondo Pads: Get a couple
Dent Puller: Get a Dent puller from Advance Autoparts for 12 bucks....we will modify it to make it work as good as a stud gun.
Washers: Get a few washers (for modifying the dent puller)
Bolt: Any bolt will work


Ok here we go, The first thing you will want to do is use the DA Sander to strip the dent area back down to bare metal...and also about 1-2 inches surrounding the area.


Ok, now that we have the area back to bare metal lets rig up our DIY dent puller. What you want to do is weld a bolt on to the end of the dent puller...It should make the dent puller make a L at the end. Once you have that welded on the take a washer and tack it to the cent of the dent..Make sure u tack slowy so the metal doesnt warp. Then hook your dent puller into the washer and give it a couple pulls to get the dent back out as far as possible...If the Dent isnt that big then there is no need to do this step.


Now that we have it pulled back out some so we dont have to put alot of filler in it and risk cracking later on. So Mix up some filler according to the instructions on the back...I usually make a line of hardner as long as the bondo i have on my bondo mixer....But it will give exact details on can. Dont be scarce with the filler here. Its much better to put alot on the dent and sand it back down then to have to put it on in 3 diffrent times. So lay on a lil more then needed....Once you got your bondo on and have let it dry for around 15mins the get your 180Grit sand paper and sand the filler until you have it back to what it originally was before the dent.


Now you will need to mask off the around around it with the masking tape and masking paper....Mask about 6 feet back from the dent because right now were fixing to spray Surface Primer and it doesnt have much overspray...Once you have masked off Wipe the area down with some Reducer,thinner,tack cloth...something of that nature. Then Mix your Surface Primer with a 4-1 Ratio. Thats 4 Ounces of Primer to 1 Ounce Reducer. This type of primer requires no hardner. Now Spray the are about 6 inches from it in even sprays at around 35psi on the gun. Do about 4 coats of that about 2 mins apart between each coat. Let dry for 20-30Mins


Once it has dried you will take a sanding block, 400Grit sand paper, and take a spray bottle and wet sand the area until the edges feather out smooth and the entire area is smooth with no sanding marks. Once you have sprayed it make sure u have no low spots and everything is good...Usually on a flat area this isnt typical but on a curved are like were doing you have to check for flat area's.



There you go You now have your dent repaired!! Were going to spray the Color Tomorrow and blend it I will takes pics and if anyone is interested I will Post On how to blend it into old paint to make it a smooth transaction...Hope this helps someone. You can click the pics to enlarge them.
 

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I do things a little different.
For starterters I use a 36 grit disk and clean off the paint. Then I feather the paint edges back with 180 . Do any pulling as mentioned to get the metal shaped out. Then work my bondo onto the dent.

I start sanding as soon as its tacky with 80 grit to shape. Then move to 180 and then to 220. Once the dent is worked in smooth I take the sander and feather all the sand scratches back out in the paint with 320 not getting into the bondo area. Then I prime with usually omni primer and guide coat for final blocking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That way would work also...but it seems like your causing more work then needed by using the 80 grit on the filler....You will have alot of sand marks that will need to be steped down....Where as you start with 180 then spray with high build primer...that will take care of the sand marks.
 

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I agree stick with what ya know!!!

As far as a guide coat it is always used in my shop as soon as I am done shooting primer I hold a can of black spray bomb back a ways and "speckle" The surface. Do not paint te primer just dust it over the area. This works real well to find hig or low spost, You just have to be able to "read" the areas it shows.

00Civic I have been building Minis for probably 15 to 18 years. I actually had a Feature in Minitruckin back in 2002. Did you build MInis yourself or just do a lot of work on them? How do you feel about doing a Minitruck build on a Civic? I was thinking about air ride, suicide doors and a 35x40 sliding ragtop for starters.
 

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36 grit is way to rough to be using on japanese sheet metal. That stuff is for 70's american steel. Even then you run the risk of warping the sheetmetal. 80 grit is as high as I go for american steel, 120 is fine for original paint japanese. Unless you have several different layers of color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yup, Guidecoat helps alot too...Mist black ontop of the primer...helps to locate the low spots. I have built a Couple S-10's a 92 and 94. Currently working on a 91 Toyota Pickup. Its Bagged with 3 link, Shaved Doors, Shaved Antenna, Molded in roll pan,French Liscense plate, Caddy Lights in rear, Shaved Gas Lid....Fixing to spray it for show season.
 

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what about small dent, like the metal just sticking the other way? Do those as seen on tv dent pullers with the pad work?? I'd love to pull a few small dents.
 

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After this post and the prof. paint job post Im ready to do my ride! Great write ups and Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks, Glad its Usefull!!

The "As seen on Tv" dent puller does not work...at least the one i have seen didnt. It uses a hot glue gun to hold the middle "puller" to the body....then you screw the middle one out...and its suppose to pull the dent out.....But the only way i see it working is on a very small/weak dent....
 

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^ that's what I meant. for smaller dent. If there's a cheap one at autozone or walmart I might pick up one and see if it works. I have few small dents on both my car that if poped out would look really good.
 
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