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91 CRX HF
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off, the reason I did this mod is because I installed a stage 4 Comp clutch and the rubber bushing at the end of the brand new OEM cable disintegrated in 2 days. Plus everyone who has installed a stage 4 or higher clutch knows how much you need to tighted the cable from the get go just to get enough travel, due to cable stretch and this little grommet compressing so much. So I decided it needed to be a little stronger. I know it won't help the other week points in the clutch system, like the pedal and cable stretch, but it should make a difference!

Now lets get to work.
First remove the factory rubber grommet. This wasn't very hard for me. Mine split on it's own.



Here's what the cable looked like after it's removal



Next gather these plumbing parts. Any hardware store should have them.
a 1/2 inch pipe coupling


A 1/2 to 1/4 pipe bushing.


And finally a 1/4 inch nipple. 1-2 inches long. It will be cut down anyway. Mine was a 2 inch.


I got a little ahead of myself and started grinding a little too quick but it worked out anyway. The first thing to do is cut a groove wide enough for the cable to enter the center of the 1/2 inch coupling. I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. I cut this groove first to make it easy to bottom out the bushing later.


Next you will thread the 1/2-1/4 bushing into the coupler. Now that the coupler is split it should be fairly easy to bottom it out.


Now Thread the 1/4" nipple into the bushing as far as you can. Then cut the nipple down to approximately 1/2 inch out of the bushing. Then Go ahead and grind the top at a taper like this. Grind just enough so it will sit inside the concave washer on the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Next continue the cut from the coupler through the bushing and nipple.


Here's a test fitting.
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content


Now here's a part you can change if you want. I chose to weld the groove back shut. If you don't have a welder, you might be able to use JB weld, or if you can wait to cut the groove until last and take it back apart and offset the grooves on each part so they don't align. This will keep the cable from comming out, but the whole thing could possibly open up and spread apart. So I went ahead and welded it up. After installing it on the cable of course!


Next I didn't want the cable rubbing directly on the metal, so I filled it with some high temp RTV I had around. You could probably use window weld as well. I was out of it.


Then I rigged it up with a little tension on it to keep the washers tight against it while the RTV dried.


I will reinstall the cable tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
 

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91 CRX HF
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Discussion Starter #7
You solved a lot of the squishy pedal feeling though by eliminating the rubber, Just remember that this puts more stress on the cable and pedal assembly.
Yeah I know, but the rubber only lasted 2 days. LOL. I would hope it takes longer for the cable to stretch or the pedal to break. If that happens, then I can write another DIY for that problem. ;)
 

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Yeah I know, but the rubber only lasted 2 days. LOL. I would hope it takes longer for the cable to stretch or the pedal to break. If that happens, then I can write another DIY for that problem. ;)
I know of guys getting 10k out of an oem cable. The problem is that you will eventually run out of adjustment due to the stretch. You did a good job though for a DIY.
 

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Classic Man
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Reinstalled the cable today and it feels a lot better. I can adjust it so there is enough slack in it so the TOB isn't rubbing all the time and it still disengages completely. There's also more adjustment left on the cable, due to the spacer being taller.
thats pretty cool! good idea.

i hated that about my clutches when i was cable. good on ya. rep!
 
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