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Discussion Starter #1
I think this is more of an issue for B series folks, but I ran into a guy who was fairly excited about my simple solution, so in case anyone wants to use a hydro tranny in an EF/CRX here I figured id toss up the pics of what I did.

My CRX came with a hydro GSR tranny and this unholy abomination:


It costs $250 and it total crap, it does work... sorta, but just dont do it.

This cost me $25 for the 92+ CMC + Res + clevis pin on ebay, and about $45 for the clutch hydraulic line on ebay. So ~$70 total and works WAY better.

I started off off inside the car, lining up where to drill the firewall that would line up with the clutch pedal and have a little room on the engine side. Once I did that I drilled out the holes and mounted the CMC in place on the firewall (you can see I missed a bit on the first hole). Then I marked on the pedal arm where where the CMC would line up with the pedal then drilled a hole for the clevis pin through the clutch pedal arm, I had to grind down one leg of the clutch pedal starter cutout, but it still works fine:







I dont use a brake booster, but I could barely fit one in there if I wanted too, although I would have to remove it to change the CMC. So be extra careful if you want to keep your booster.

I would like to add a brace to the CMC at some point, but it works great as is and doesnt feel like it is flexing or anytbing.

Ill get some pics of the completed setup tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
My car is obviously still a work in progress, so the wiring and plumbing is sloppy as hell still:



.



But I think this could be cleaned up and look nearly completely stock if you wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Here is the thread with all my arguments why I dont want a booster on a honda, and other peoples arguments against it, none of which I think have ever tried it:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/general-tech/212594-crx-brake-boost-delete-stock-master-cylinder.html

This is the basics in a nutshell though:

I have driven without power brakes on Hondas for years. If you can disconnect the vacuum booster and lock up the stickiest tires you use on the stickiest surface you drive on, then it will be safer to drive without a brake booster then with one, although it will feel wierd at first and take some getting used to.

The larger your brake diameter is and the smaller your master cylinder is, the easier pedal effort will be. Removing your brake booster will lower the braking effort by slightly more than 1 size master cylinder change. IE a 13/16 master cylinder with an unhooked brake booster required slightly more pedal effort than a 7/8 master cylinder with the brake booster removed.
Plus in addition to all that it just feels better. You dont realize how sloppy a brake booster makes your brake pedal until you drive without one.

But most people are paranoid about removing it. It doesnt matter if a 15/16 MC with a brake booster takes more pedal effort AND has more pedal travel than a 13/16 MC with no booster, most people just cant wrap their minds around going without power brakes.
 

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Gotcha. Sounds like a subjective thing but I might just plug the booster hose on mine and see how I like it. Thanks for the link.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Give it a try, keep in mind that the pedal will be somewhat easier to press and have a lot less slop going from an unhooked booster to a removed booster.

I cant really comment on any other type of booster, but the 88-91HF version is completely useless as far as I can tell. The pedal effort difference between having it in and working and removed are miniscule. So basically it just "assists" enough to cover the effort it increases your pedal effort by, and it adds a bunch of pedal slop with no upside as far as I can tell.

I honestly wonder if honda added it just because of how scared people are of driving without power brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Besides, with the brake booster off, you can actually remove the alternator through the top. :)
Yea, I have big arms and with a B series in there I could hardly even get my hand in on that side, but without the booster it frees up a LOT of room.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Certainly a giant benefit.

OP sorry for the threadjack. Back to the actual subject of the thread.
No problem at all. I am quite possibly this forums number one offender for thread sidetracking, not because I try to, but because I follow the conversation or ask questions instead of sticking strictly to the original title.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)




My pedal hole is slightly low, maybe 1/8" or so, but I think I am going to shim out the CMC. Right now my pedal is on the high side, especially since my pedal activation is like less than 1/2", which might be partially from my marcel less clutch disk too.

Anyway shimming it out some should help both problems, the slight angle misalignment and the pedal height.



It is hard to see in this pic, but I should be able to shim it out at least 1/2" inch, which should give me the option to move the pedal down several inches if I want.

I did this with a used CMC, I should switch it out for a new one soon, since it is clearly leaking a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yea, I bought a used MC off ebay because it came with the res and everything I needed for the conversion, I have a rebuilt one sitting in my glovebox I should put in.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I corrected some stuff, shimmed out the clutch master cylinder, and cut down the shaft bolt.


Here it is installed from the engine side:


This is what it looks like all the way up, the pedal is set to about half height:


This is it all the way down, the angle actually looks great through the whole, very short, pedal travel. I must have had air in the line before, because it actually is quite a bit shorter now.


My engine bay is a mess, but I do like the factory like look of the clutch master cylinder.


I have now gone from the messed up innovative abomination in the first post, which took the entire pedal travel and then some with a stock type disk, to a cable tranny with the same cable and disk that took half the pedal travel, to this setup with an unsprung kevlar disk with no marcel which has the pedal set at half height and takes less than 1/4 of that 50%.

I do really like this setup, and it is sweet for shifting, and it can engage nice and smoothly, but it does take some fine pedal control when starting smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The plastic spacers? Or the original pile of metal washers inside the car?

The plastic spacers I made while sitting around watching tv, my plan was to use them as a temporary spacer to get the thickness right, then make a permanent spacer once I was comfortable with the spacing. However all of them together seem about right (7/16") and the clutch works good so I might just leave them for now. I have bigger problems to fix.
 
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