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Here it is, now this is what i did when i painted my car and that's part of my job (along with forming parts out of sheetmetal, fiberglass, carbon fiber etc..) Although i am through and i try to get it perfect the first time so my prep job is extensive.
ok a parts list of what you need if you're planning on doing this in your garage :

1. Masking tape i use 1 inch and 2 inch
2. Paper of any kind, hell i've used newspaper
3. Compressor capable of around 100psi (with airhoses)
4. Paint gun if you don't have one maybe you can rent them i don't know
5. Paint, Thinner, Hardener
6. andpaper, 120 grit for scuff sanding and 400 or finer for wetsanding
7. DA (dual action) sander unless you want to do it by hand which takes a long time.
8. Trash bags (they fit around the wheels to keep off overspray)
9. Rags
10. Alcohol(i use that as a wipe down)'

I suggest you use something to keep the paint out of your lungs at least a paper respirator type that has elastic on it that goes over your nose and mouth like nurses and that wear.

First you want to scuff sand.
When you sand with a DA don't go all the way to the metal you'll pay for it in the end in my opinion and DO NOT use more than 120 grit paper because it will mess up the paintjob and you'll see lines in it, not good. The best way to use a DA is slow movements moderate pressure. Don't push on it so damned hard because it'll dig in the metal. Now hand sanding sand in a circular motion pretend you're karate kid waxing a car :lol: it takes a while but makes sure you don't see any shine on the car from the old paintjob. Now that's done, get all that dust off you car with water.

Time to wetsand
Take your 400+ grit (I like 400 grit now) wet your car down (should still be wet from getting the dust off) sand down the car until it's smooth to the touch. Try this, sand an area wipe it and if you feel any kind rough spots keep sanding, don't worry it's a fine grit and it's hard to mess up with 400 grit REMEMBER! If the sandpaper seems like it isn't working get another piece you can't do the whole car with just one piece :roll: Now that's done wet the car down again dry it off with rags or whatnot.

Now take the alcohol and rags (do NOT use wet rags with water on it) wipe the whole car down making sure you get it really well...a paint job is only as good as a prep job.

Masking off time...
 

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Masking off.

Take the masking tape before you put on the paper outline the windows and everywhere you don't want to get paint on then put your paper on that and tape it down, it makes it a lot easier so you don't have to be as precise when you put the paper down. Use 1 inch tape to make curves and that, it's a lot easier to work than 2 inch tape.

Ok now everything is masked off...time to spray!

I use a HVLP gun (high volume low pressure) DeVillbliss which runs at 10psi . If you have don't have an HVLP gun i believe the pressure suitable is 35psi.
Let me discuss the prop ways of spraying. When you spray make sure to keep the gun 6-10 inches from the surface moving at the same speed, and holding the gun as perpendicular as possible throughout the pass across the surface. Wrist movement must be eliminated , a flexing wrist will cause the paint to be thick in the middle and light on the sides. Do not tilt the gun it also causes and uneven spray pattern.
Pretend you are a machine and keep your gun straight to the surface as possible moving the gun with your arm . Move back and forth in uniform strokes and overlapping at 50% of your previous stroke. Pull the trigger before you begin the stroke and release it after you complete the stroke. In otherwords pull the trigger before you get to the surface so it won't be light on the edges and let it go after you made the full stroke across the material for the same reason.

The gun's adjustments are as followed:
There are three adjustment knobs the top one is spray width the middle one is fluid adjustment the one at the bottom of the handle is air pressure. Just toy with it until you get a good spray pattern not to thick not to thin.
Spray gun Tip where it has paint comes out if you are going to spray side to side makes sure the wings of the tips are side to side and if you spray up and down the material make the wings point up and down. (the two little wings on the end where the paint comes out)
 

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Now you have everything adjusted shake your primer well and then hand stir it with a stir stick(free when you get the paint) pour your primer to manufacturers specifications usually primer is 4 parts primer 1 part hardener and thin to suit...it doesn't really matter how much thinner you use i would say about 1 part thinner as well.
When you go get your paint they will have paint cups for free most of the time that show you the 4-1 ratio already on the cup. Makes for easy mix now mix the primer in the cup with the stir stick and pour into gun. Spraying the car as i said before and remember if you mess up with primer you're just going to wetsand it anyways so it doesn't matter to much.

Starting from the highest point of the car (roof) spray it then moving your way down to the lowest point cuts down on overspray. Now spray a light quick coat on called "tackcoat" then let it sit for 15mins go back over it with a "wetcoat" where you get a really good coat on there. Wait another 20mins and spray one more coat on. Ok let that sit until it's completely dry i usually let it sit for at least 12 hours to be absolutely safe but you can pull it off in a few hours most of the time. Depends if it's hot outside or not...ok now to wetsand

What you want to do here is take you fine grit paper and knock off all the overspray and runs and that. Take a bucket of water and go around with that but try not to get it on the masking paper and sand. Make sure the car is completely smooth you'll know when it's smooth. It doesn't take much and it feels smooth as a baby's ass... yeah ok now after you sand it down take the alcohol and rags and wipe it down. After you have done this there is bound to be some lint on it. For this go to the paint store and buy TACKRAGS they are lint free semi sticky rags that are really cheap and they get all lint off....i forgot to put that in the list of materials (sorry) ok now you wiped it down with a tackrag it's time for topcoat your almost done!
 

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Now for the topcoat.
I am using a single stage paint it's just easier and if you want to know how to use base coat/clear coat i will explain but here is the steps for single stage(paint that has sorta a clear coat built into it for a one shot paint instead of base coat clear coat where you spray the base coat and then the clear coat)
The mixing ratio is as follows:
2 parts paint to 1 part hardener and 10-15% thinner DO NOT exceed 15% of the paint with thinner or it'll just come off and you will get orange peel like a bastard (where it actually looks like the surface of an orange's skin)
Spray a light tackcoat as you did with the primer. Let set for 20 mins then come back with 1 wet(heavy) coat. Let set again for about 20ish minutes then go over it again spray another light coat over it. If you still see places you need to spray go ahead and spray another thick coat and make sure to get everything DO NOT forget to start at the highest point moving your way down.

Usually what i do is make a starting point ...alright example i spray the roof the i start at the right door and spray the car going around it until i end up in the same place i started, it's easier and less confusion. Let set overnight just for the sake of it, it would help if you had heat in the place you're spraying but it's not something you have to have... Other than that a few paint jobs and you'll be good as if not better than me :D Damn this took longer than i thought
 

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Discussion Starter #6
base coat clear coat is pretty much the same as far as spraying the base coat. The clear coat is just spray decent coats let sit then spray again. 3 coats are good but, the more you do the better gloss it has.
 

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you will want the nozzle pressure to be at 10psi. when the trigger isnt pressed and you have a psi gauge on your gun it should read around 35-50 psi depending what gun you have. also depending on the paint you have "read the instructions on it" you will want a 40% to a 75% overlap so you wont get any "tiget stripes". there is also a flash time in between quotes usually 15-25 mins to give the paint time to setup. also mix what you will need there is a potlife on almost all paint. just make sure you have a rythem going when you paint and stick with that rythem. also you want to go in long strokes all the way down the side. when you stop if you arnt really good at feathering the paint you can get heavy spots which you can see after it is done. also there is a difference in surface and air temp. on the part or car you are painting you want a surface temp of 75 degrees so if you have an air temp of 75 you will have to let it sit there for 3 hours to reach a surface temp of 75.
 

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dxmannn said:
very good write up when i painted my car i didnt really prep my car and now i have bubbles in the paint and its cracking and wavy but thats my problem good write up tho :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
the little bubbles you got in your paint are called "fish eyes". and the cracking is usually from grease or oil on the car. you should use a degreaser and wipe the whole thing down and then tack it off with a tack cloth. i like to wear rubber gloves when i paint so that if you acidentally touch the car you wont get the oils from your hand on it and cause the problems you had. just a little info for now.
 

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i would reccomend after you wetsand retape everything. there is nothing worse than when you are painting you blow water out onto a nice wet fresh coat of paint :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
general rule of thumb is 50% overlap, yeah i am trying to spray in the cold right now because i am stubborn and its looking like ass :lol:
 

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yeah its not to good to spray in the cold. if you do a base/clear and it is below 73 degrees i think it is it is really easy for the clear to turn yellow and crack on ya
 

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Discussion Starter #12
nah i am spraying single stage , man i had a crappy day yesterday..first off i forgot to tighten the fluid tip and paint was everywhere then i had to clean the gun again, then i couldnt get the pattern right then i fell on the door i was painting because there was so much crap in the garage now i have to do it all over again :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well see the reason i sprayed it is the guy before me ok here's what this genius did he bought a sanded from the BX on base and sanded it down with 80 grit home sanding paper keep in mind these sanders just go up and down, then after sanding to BARE metal he primes it with spray paint :cry: so when i got it, it was corroding up and i knew if i didn't paint it, it would soon get worse...championship white wasn't what i really wanted...i was listening to my boss when he said i should do it in that color and not flat black like i wanted, now i regret it and this summer after i get back from spain i am going to do it over again in flat black. :twisted: then it'll be looking like a beast with the rota's i'm gettin...can't wait
 

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did he warp the metal sanding it down like that? if he didnt you are luckyt cuz some people just like to warp the shit outta metal. i had to fix this one truck because these people didnt know how to weld or anything that they did
 

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Discussion Starter #15
no he didn't warp the metal but i had paint chips along the edges that were a bastard to blend in, pretty much hours of wet sanding did the trick, i put that HF hatch on with some modifications because it didn't want to fit right in there so i am going to have to ream the holes out on it. :?
 

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i've only painted one car, and it cam out good.

but yes if you paint a base/claer coat i use a 1500 then a 2000 grit wet sand on the final clear. wait then buff and bevery carful when buffing it doesnt take much, you'll easily burn through the clearcoat if your not carefull and always use a new pad.
 
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