Honda D Series Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
2018 TRD
Joined
·
3,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I received my aluminum shifter bushings tonight and figured I would write-up a DIY on how to install them and a Revo Technica Short Shifter on my 2003 EM2. I installed the shifter 6 months ago, but since I had to remove it to replace the bushings, this DIY will work for both. So here we go. You can remove your seats if you want to, as you'll have more space to work, but its not necessary. This is my first DIY so be gentle....

Items to be installed
- Revo Technica short shifter kit
- EM2/EP3/DC5 Aluminum shifter bushings

Time needed:
- About an hour

Tools needed:
- Phillips screwdriver (magnetic makes it easier)
- Flathead screwdriver
- rachet with 11mm socket
- 6" extension for your rachet

Extra materials needed:
- 2 small cotter pins (to replace the ones you remove, optional if you're careful)
- 1 washer

So here we go.

First go buy yourself a 7th gen Honda. Then listen to 50% of folks tell you that your ride is a POS that's not worth putting any money into. Then listen to 20% of folks tell you to not waste your money on anything but a K-series swap. Once you're done with that, listen to the other 25% of folks tell to quite wasting money on bolt-ons and just boost it.

Still with me? Good. Let's install a new shifter and some bushings.

Here they are. Aren't they purty?



Now you have to remove your center console and your shifter assembly to install either the shifter, the bushings, or both. This is actually pretty easy, but we'll step by step it to get all the screws and fasteners.

First things first is to empty all the crap out of your cup holders and armrest storage. Then pry out the two fastners by the driver and passenger foot area. These are those crappy, push in - force out plastic things that will let you remove them once, and then stop holding or break when you try for a second go. I don't have them anymore, but here's where they go - one on each side of the console.



Now grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove the two phillips screws on either side of the console where the back seat passengers put their feet. Remove the bottom ones, as the smaller top ones just hold the drink holder fascia piece in place. Put the screws somewhere safe, like your change compartment.



Since you emptied out your armrest compartment, now remove the rubber mat at the bottom. Its not stuck with any adhesive, but it is a little stubborn especially if you spilled a bunch a crap down there and never cleaned it out. Once you get the mat out, remove the three phillips screws and put them with the other two from the bottom of the console. Don't worry, they're the same size so it doesn't matter if you get them mixed up.



Now it's time to remove your shift knob and shifter boot bracket. Grasp the silver collar underneath the shift knob and pull downwards, the collar should release and slide down (its held by plastic clips on the bottom of the knob). Unscrew the shift knob (lefty loosey, righty tighty) until it comes off. Put it somewhere. Now hook your fingers underneath the front of the shift boot bracket and apply firm, even pressure upwards until the plastic clips release, and the front part of the boot bracket comes up. Work the rest the clips loose (just by pulling up carefully) and place the boot assembly somewhere out of the way. Don't jerk it upwards as you might break some of the clips.



Now pop that little plastic out from in front of the E-brake boot by hooking it with your finger and pulling up. This would pop out later when you removed the console, but its better to get it now so you don't lose it. Put it somewhere.



Now that you've removed the boot assembly, there are two screws to take out. Grab your phillips and remove them. Put them with your other screws. They're distinctly different so you shouldn't mix them up with the other five you already took out.



Almost done with everything. If you have foglights, you would disconnect the switches at this stage. Simply pull the buttons out and disconnect the plug from the back of each switch. If you can't pull them out, follow this next step to push them out from behind.

Close your armrest, grab the back of it, and pull the console up and back so that there is 3-4 inch gap between it and the dash (see pic). It will resist at first due the five plastic clips connecting it to the dashboard (two on each side, one on top).

Once its loose and moved back, you will need to disconnect the plug from the power point, and possibly your fog lights as well. I don't have fogs so I can't be more specific on that. I had to disconnect my MP3 player input here which I mounted into one of the blank fog switch plates.

Now that you've disconnected those plugs, put your car into 2nd or 4th, make sure the E-brake is up, and recline the seats. Lift the console up and tilt it forward to clear the E-brake handle. Once its clear, remove it from the car. Put it somehwere. Hard part is over.



Keep reading. I'm not done yet.
 

·
Registered
2018 TRD
Joined
·
3,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Remove the Shifter Assembly

First thing you have to do is detach the cables from the shifter assembly. Remove the two cotter pins from the cam bolts on the shifter lever and reverse actuator. This why you needed the two cotter pins. If you're like me, you'll snap the ones that are on there currently. I'm sure some folks could take these out and then reuse them, but my philosophy is that brute force and ignorance works everytime. Anyway, pull the cotter pins out, and pay attention to the placement of the washers before pulling the two cam bolts out. You will need to put the washers back on, in order, when its time to re-assemble. Don't lose these, in fact, put the washers back on the bolts just like you they were before you took them off. That way you have less to remember.

Now you have to remove the cables from the front part of the shifter assembly. The reverse actuator one is pretty easy. Just grasp the cable on either side of the shifter assembly, pull it firmly towards you, and it should pop out. For the other one, grab your flathead screwdriver, put it between the large, greenish-colored, metal clip and the shifter assembly, and pry it upwards until it starts to come out. This will take a little bit of coaxing. Once its out, pull the cable out from the front of the shifter. Time to take out the bolts.



Grab your rachet with the 6" extension and 11mm socket on the end, and break loose the four bolts on the shifter. Remove all four and put them on your work area that you'll be using to remove and replace the bushings. The shifter assembly is now loose and can be removed.





Revo vs. Stock Shifter

Here's a couple comparison shots of the Revo shifter and the stock shifter. Notice how much shorter the Revo shifter is, roughly about an inch. Plus note the difference in where you set the height of the cable actuator point on the shift lever. Most of the "short shifter adapters" sold (DC Sports, OBX, etc..) only adjust the location where the cable is connected to the shift lever and not the actual shift lever height. So far I've only seen the Revo shifter and the B&M shifter allow for both adjustments. The higher up on the lever, the shorter the shift. Prior to install of your new Revo shifter, be sure and lube the plastic ball joints with the included lubricant.





Aluminum vs. Stock Rubber Bushings

Here's a comparison to show the difference in the two bushing types. Obviously, the aluminum bushings will allow for a firmer shifting feel and less flex when you're frantically rowing through the gears to smoke that old lady in her stock Pinto. Each stock rubber bushing will be replaced by two aluminum bushings. Although the aluminum bushings aren't as tall as the stockers, this is irrelevant because they won't compress like the rubber ones.



Bushing Install

This is easy. Place four of the bushings, flat-side down over the bolt holes on the floor of the vehicle. See the picture for how they would look from the side (red) and how they would look from the top. Place the new (if you're installing the Revo) or old (if you're keeping your stock) shifter assembly carefully back in place, trying not to move the bushings on the floor too much. This isn't as hard as it sounds and its the easiest way I found after jacking with this step for about 20 minutes. Grab your phillips screwdriver and align the lower bushings with the bolt holes in both the floor, and the shifter assembly. Drop the other four bushings in place on top of them (flat side up), and thread all four bolts finger tight.



Now reattach the cables to the shifter assembly, remembering the order of the washers. On the Revo, the reverse actuator is the same as the stocker. Don't forget the cotter pin.

For the forward cable, place the cam bolt on the right side of the shift lever, grab the silver, crosshatched washer and black Allen screw from the install kit and install them from the left side (ref picture). Adjust the height of the cam bolt mounting point to your liking (upper=shorter throw) and screw it down with the supplied allen wrench. Place the supplied washer on the right side of the cam bolt, then the cable itself. If there is too large of a gap between the cable and the cotter pin, put on that extra washer I mentioned in the extra parts section, and then the cotter pin. Although I may have simply lost one of the original washers when I did the install. I don't remember anymore.



That's it, you're done! Re-assembly is the reverse of this DIY. Put it all back together, don't forget to put the front of the console in first before you lower the back, and ensure its in 2nd or 4th with the e-brake up.

Thoughts about the set-up

I am incredibly happy with this short shifter and bushing set-up. Its arguably the most enjoyable $100 (+shipping) I've spent on my ride. The shift throw is dramatically reduced and is so much crisper now with the bushings. I had the short throw set-up on for about 6 month before I put the new bushings in and even now the difference is like night and day. Install is pretty easy, and the instructions that come with the shifter are understandable and written in real English.

You can find the Revo Technica short shifter on Ebay for $85 plus shipping, I think the B&M goes for around $150-180, and the bushings cost me $25 shipped, also from Ebay (search DC5 bushings). A lot of regular online parts places stock the Revo, but I've never seen the bushings in a store.

All in all I would highly recommend this bolt-on to anybody wanting to enjoy their EM2 a bit more.
 

·
Live,love,laugh,be real
07' Odyssey 07'Magnum
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
couldnt you have just pulled the four screws out that hold down the shifter and picked it up a lil and popped out the rubber bushings then simply slid the new aluminum bushings in place...?
just a thought, seems like you dont have to remove it to change them out...

edit* btw, it is a nice write up tho... :TU:
 

·
Registered
2018 TRD
Joined
·
3,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No.

There wouldn't be enough room to remove the cables from the shifter assembly, pry that clip, move that big loom of wiring out of the way, have enough leverage to get the cotter pins out, and then get the shifter back in without sending the bushings flying as you tried to manuever it into place. Its simply too small of an area inside the console to mess with all that. Believe me, I tried leaving it in place when I tried to install the shifter the first time. No go.
 

·
Live,love,laugh,be real
07' Odyssey 07'Magnum
Joined
·
5,973 Posts
No.

There wouldn't be enough room to remove the cables from the shifter assembly, pry that clip, move that big loom of wiring out of the way, have enough leverage to get the cotter pins out, and then get the shifter back in without sending the bushings flying as you tried to manuever it into place. Its simply too small of an area inside the console to mess with all that. Believe me, I tried leaving it in place when I tried to install the shifter the first time. No go.
sorry man, wasnt tryin to piss you off...lol just askin a simple question...

my friend has a 02 em and we have been tryin to decide what she wants to do... this write up helps... thank's :TU:
 
  • Like
Reactions: speedfoos

·
Registered
2018 TRD
Joined
·
3,610 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry, been away on business the past few days. I really like the new bushings, shifting is a lot crisper. If you've installed the shifter already, you may also notice that there is a little play in the clip that secures the main cable to the shifter assembly. A guy who's screen name is Grey on civicforums.com sells a kit for $7 that takes care of that sloppiness. Its two rubber back washers, some mini hinge pins (replaces the cotter pins) and two clips to reduce the gap in between the assembly and the cable. I did that as well and it really makes a difference between the Revo being a good shifter and a great shifter. Hope that helps.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top