Yeah, that and the 10k rpm. Still, for $50 bucks it's a steal. I wonder what kind of work I'd have to do to my car to get up to 160....besides mounting a C130 JATO (Jet-Assisted Takeoff) pod. Of course by the time I got up to that speed the wheels wouldn't be spinning so much as flailing.
DIY: Aftermarket cluster overlays installation
My situation: I own an EG 95 civic hatch. I have been rummaging through the junkyards lately and found a plethora of civic auto clusters. They sell em' for fifty bucks, I always wanted a tach, so I went ahead and bought one. I can always paint over the auto-shift display later, the cluster functions perfectly fine in my hatch.
The only thing that keeps annoying me is the pathetic back lighting the clusters have, and now to make it worse the lights between 40 and 70 on my speedometer are out. I started looking up options.
I'm not into riceroni stuff, but I need function and will settle with a little style as long as it doesn't scream JDM. So I picked up some overlays on e-bay for $40.
Installation of these overlays isn't exactly clear, one guy goes so far as to explain that removing the needles are necessary, and to calibrate by driving down a long straight road and GUESSING your rpm/speed/etc. HAH! no.
I finally found a couple threads that yield some helpful advice on how to install overlays (SuperHonda Thread & Prelude Power Thread). While these threads get the ball rolling, I'd rather take what information I've gathered and combine it with my own experience to have a more complete DIY on D-Series. That and you NEVER GET BACK THE TIME YOU SPEND SEARCHING. Spam is my mortal enemy.
This process should be the same for any 92-95 USDM civic. I used my service manual for the majority of information.
First thing you need to do is unplug your battery, then just go do something for five minutes. Requirement is three minutes, but hey, I can wait a little longer to avoid an SRS bitchslap.
After five minutes turn the steering wheel to the right until it locks. It isn't necessary but random movement is one less variable in the equation of doom.
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On the underside of the steering wheel you will find the SRS connection access panel.
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Use a regular Phillips screwdriver to remove it. On the panel itself is a red short connector. Carefully unplug the yellow SRS cable and plug it into the red short connector.
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Now you are free to move about the cabin. The next step is NOT necessary but I prefer my work space to be spacious.
Remove the seat:
Front bolts
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Back bolts
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You also need to remove the seat belt status wire. I used a small Flathead screwdriver to push in the zip tie stop. Unplug it and lift the seat out.
![]()
That's better. Ugh...time to replace the floor mat...right after I replace my carpet. When you bolt the seat back on the front bolts and back bolt by the door sill are 16 lb-ft of toque; the other bolt facing down is 29 lb-ft of torque.
![]()
Remove the dash/cluster inlay panel. Start by using a Flathead screwdriver with a small cloth or some Kleenex over the tip to pry the hazard switch off.
![]()
(continued next post...)
The only thing that keeps annoying me is the pathetic back lighting the clusters have, and now to make it worse the lights between 40 and 70 on my speedometer are out. I started looking up options.
I'm not into riceroni stuff, but I need function and will settle with a little style as long as it doesn't scream JDM. So I picked up some overlays on e-bay for $40.
Installation of these overlays isn't exactly clear, one guy goes so far as to explain that removing the needles are necessary, and to calibrate by driving down a long straight road and GUESSING your rpm/speed/etc. HAH! no.
I finally found a couple threads that yield some helpful advice on how to install overlays (SuperHonda Thread & Prelude Power Thread). While these threads get the ball rolling, I'd rather take what information I've gathered and combine it with my own experience to have a more complete DIY on D-Series. That and you NEVER GET BACK THE TIME YOU SPEND SEARCHING. Spam is my mortal enemy.
This process should be the same for any 92-95 USDM civic. I used my service manual for the majority of information.
First thing you need to do is unplug your battery, then just go do something for five minutes. Requirement is three minutes, but hey, I can wait a little longer to avoid an SRS bitchslap.
After five minutes turn the steering wheel to the right until it locks. It isn't necessary but random movement is one less variable in the equation of doom.
On the underside of the steering wheel you will find the SRS connection access panel.
Use a regular Phillips screwdriver to remove it. On the panel itself is a red short connector. Carefully unplug the yellow SRS cable and plug it into the red short connector.
Now you are free to move about the cabin. The next step is NOT necessary but I prefer my work space to be spacious.
Remove the seat:
Front bolts
Back bolts
You also need to remove the seat belt status wire. I used a small Flathead screwdriver to push in the zip tie stop. Unplug it and lift the seat out.
That's better. Ugh...time to replace the floor mat...right after I replace my carpet. When you bolt the seat back on the front bolts and back bolt by the door sill are 16 lb-ft of toque; the other bolt facing down is 29 lb-ft of torque.
Remove the dash/cluster inlay panel. Start by using a Flathead screwdriver with a small cloth or some Kleenex over the tip to pry the hazard switch off.
(continued next post...)
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Oh. Once again I claim :newbie: diplomatic immunity.
Is the pause a restriction of the cluster itself or part of the ECU programming?Thanks for the comments guys, really appreciate it.
Does the needle only fit on the pin in one direction? In other words, is there a fitted groove on the pin for the needle?
I always assumed popping off the needle would require a precise recalibration when reattaching it, as my early search sessions on the net reflected that.
its the cluster, ive went about 1000rpms after i went to 130 (topped out 4th gear, in DX? tranny 7400 rev limit)Oh. Once again I claim :newbie: diplomatic immunity.
Just an update on my new cluster faces:
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Again, through whatever skill I lack in photography or optical acuity my camera lacks, the night exposure came out a bit flawed. The white is actually more of a cool blue-green, like indiglo only subdued.
Something unexpected was the center section of the tach and speedo had cool contrast effect. All the manufacturer did was put a light coat of paint over the lighting, but it makes reading the needle at a glance very easy. Almost no light from the original dimmer set bleeds through; with the exception of the odometer, tripometer, and reset post. I'm still planning on changing the color of lighting though, and probably just take out the rest of the bulbs for the heck of it.
The more I drive at night the more they grow on me. :grin:
Again, through whatever skill I lack in photography or optical acuity my camera lacks, the night exposure came out a bit flawed. The white is actually more of a cool blue-green, like indiglo only subdued.
Something unexpected was the center section of the tach and speedo had cool contrast effect. All the manufacturer did was put a light coat of paint over the lighting, but it makes reading the needle at a glance very easy. Almost no light from the original dimmer set bleeds through; with the exception of the odometer, tripometer, and reset post. I'm still planning on changing the color of lighting though, and probably just take out the rest of the bulbs for the heck of it.
The more I drive at night the more they grow on me. :grin:
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21 - 33 of 33 Posts
