who told you this lie? sorry. but that statement made me laugh a little bit
DIY: Aftermarket cluster overlays installation
My situation: I own an EG 95 civic hatch. I have been rummaging through the junkyards lately and found a plethora of civic auto clusters. They sell em' for fifty bucks, I always wanted a tach, so I went ahead and bought one. I can always paint over the auto-shift display later, the cluster functions perfectly fine in my hatch.
The only thing that keeps annoying me is the pathetic back lighting the clusters have, and now to make it worse the lights between 40 and 70 on my speedometer are out. I started looking up options.
I'm not into riceroni stuff, but I need function and will settle with a little style as long as it doesn't scream JDM. So I picked up some overlays on e-bay for $40.
Installation of these overlays isn't exactly clear, one guy goes so far as to explain that removing the needles are necessary, and to calibrate by driving down a long straight road and GUESSING your rpm/speed/etc. HAH! no.
I finally found a couple threads that yield some helpful advice on how to install overlays (SuperHonda Thread & Prelude Power Thread). While these threads get the ball rolling, I'd rather take what information I've gathered and combine it with my own experience to have a more complete DIY on D-Series. That and you NEVER GET BACK THE TIME YOU SPEND SEARCHING. Spam is my mortal enemy.
This process should be the same for any 92-95 USDM civic. I used my service manual for the majority of information.
First thing you need to do is unplug your battery, then just go do something for five minutes. Requirement is three minutes, but hey, I can wait a little longer to avoid an SRS bitchslap.
After five minutes turn the steering wheel to the right until it locks. It isn't necessary but random movement is one less variable in the equation of doom.
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On the underside of the steering wheel you will find the SRS connection access panel.
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Use a regular Phillips screwdriver to remove it. On the panel itself is a red short connector. Carefully unplug the yellow SRS cable and plug it into the red short connector.
![]()
Now you are free to move about the cabin. The next step is NOT necessary but I prefer my work space to be spacious.
Remove the seat:
Front bolts
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Back bolts
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You also need to remove the seat belt status wire. I used a small Flathead screwdriver to push in the zip tie stop. Unplug it and lift the seat out.
![]()
That's better. Ugh...time to replace the floor mat...right after I replace my carpet. When you bolt the seat back on the front bolts and back bolt by the door sill are 16 lb-ft of toque; the other bolt facing down is 29 lb-ft of torque.
![]()
Remove the dash/cluster inlay panel. Start by using a Flathead screwdriver with a small cloth or some Kleenex over the tip to pry the hazard switch off.
![]()
(continued next post...)
The only thing that keeps annoying me is the pathetic back lighting the clusters have, and now to make it worse the lights between 40 and 70 on my speedometer are out. I started looking up options.
I'm not into riceroni stuff, but I need function and will settle with a little style as long as it doesn't scream JDM. So I picked up some overlays on e-bay for $40.
Installation of these overlays isn't exactly clear, one guy goes so far as to explain that removing the needles are necessary, and to calibrate by driving down a long straight road and GUESSING your rpm/speed/etc. HAH! no.
I finally found a couple threads that yield some helpful advice on how to install overlays (SuperHonda Thread & Prelude Power Thread). While these threads get the ball rolling, I'd rather take what information I've gathered and combine it with my own experience to have a more complete DIY on D-Series. That and you NEVER GET BACK THE TIME YOU SPEND SEARCHING. Spam is my mortal enemy.
This process should be the same for any 92-95 USDM civic. I used my service manual for the majority of information.
First thing you need to do is unplug your battery, then just go do something for five minutes. Requirement is three minutes, but hey, I can wait a little longer to avoid an SRS bitchslap.
After five minutes turn the steering wheel to the right until it locks. It isn't necessary but random movement is one less variable in the equation of doom.
On the underside of the steering wheel you will find the SRS connection access panel.
Use a regular Phillips screwdriver to remove it. On the panel itself is a red short connector. Carefully unplug the yellow SRS cable and plug it into the red short connector.
Now you are free to move about the cabin. The next step is NOT necessary but I prefer my work space to be spacious.
Remove the seat:
Front bolts
Back bolts
You also need to remove the seat belt status wire. I used a small Flathead screwdriver to push in the zip tie stop. Unplug it and lift the seat out.
That's better. Ugh...time to replace the floor mat...right after I replace my carpet. When you bolt the seat back on the front bolts and back bolt by the door sill are 16 lb-ft of toque; the other bolt facing down is 29 lb-ft of torque.
Remove the dash/cluster inlay panel. Start by using a Flathead screwdriver with a small cloth or some Kleenex over the tip to pry the hazard switch off.
(continued next post...)
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