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Diy 92-95 civic wire tuck

56K views 35 replies 18 participants last post by  2jzdreamin 
#1 ·
Im not totally done with mine so this will finish as i do

This guy here has a great write up for the drivers side
It will give you what tools ya need and what not.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/144961-how-tuck-drivers-side-harness-eg-ej.html


I did my drivers side also here are some pics and tips along the way

here it is all put together


youll wanna remove the side skirt if your car has one.
wiper cowl cover
remove the fender
unscrew the corner light also.
start unplugging this items
headlight, washer bottle, corner light, brake resiovre <sp>, wiper motor,ect ect.
now before ya can pull the harness out you need to unplug it under the dash, it was a bitch for me but i got it lol. once its unplugged pull the drivers harness from the car.

i didnt take pics of this part so im stealing a pic from the thread above lol :bigok::bigok:

on the harness this is where ya about wanna cut, please do one wire at a time and label them before ya cut lol. there are 11 wires to number, not including the wiper motor with 5 wires


ok so after you have cut and labeled the wires plug in the headlight washer bottle ground block : use the hole there for this, and run the long section threw the fender section use a coat hanger or what not i used a piece of nice 10 gauge speaker wire, fished it threw and taped the harness on and pulled it thew. notice in the pic what hole i used.


reason i used that hole is because all i had to do was solder the wires back together.

the other hole with wires in it is for the wiper motor these you will need to extend.kinda a bitch fishing the wires the into the wiper motor area, i used a coat hanger for this part.

ok so now before we start soldering the wires back together. :in the pic above, we used the grommet already there, i cut a slit in mine about 1/2 long.

ok now you have the section of wires this is what i did.with everything still labled. take you coat hanger and run it thew the gromet to the inside of the car. once ya locate the hanger inside tape using black tape the harness to the coat hanger tape over your labels also so the dont get ripped of, being black tape it dont stick to the painters tape and gently pull it threw the gromet.
after that is pulled threw go ahead and start soldering up wires


I dont think i will be putting the break resivore wires back in either ill prob just turn the cap so the wires are facing the back.
also ill show later how to reuse the firewall gromet to fill the hole. so ya wanna remove the fire wall gromet from the drivers harness

also the washer line is not long enough by itself, so i had some from the hatch i used.
also note that i deleted my cruise control, and ac stuff.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
ok now with the fun pass side lol
Hopefull your battery is outta the car if not punch your self in the nuts then take it out lol

if ya dont know how to remove your dash and cluster trim use these links
http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=9495&sid=22586591c5fdf9b0c8769c3e1a31a58e

removing the cluster trim
copied from another site
theres four screws ( not bolts ) the two upper ones you found, on on the left of the colum ( I think you found this one behind the hazard switch ) and one on the right side behind a blank plug .

with these four screws removed I start from the top of the shroud pulling it down and out. there will be four more screws behind there holding the cluster in.

be cearfull when removing the cluster shroud that you dont snap it or scratch your colum covers


now i left my wheel on but if ya wanna remove it go ahead, i just undid the steering column
and as for the pass air bag.
remove the glove box
above that there is a plastic cover with 2 plactic screws.
once that cover is off, there are 4 x10mm nuts that hold the bag to the dash, and 2x 10mm nuts that hold the canister to a brace, unplug it. i wrapped the connector in black tape to avoid accidental discharge lol

so with the dash out you should have this to look at
also in this pic i have removed the blower motor and my center section of the heating crap


here is the drivers side wires also waiting to be hooked up later on


so pretty much like the drivers side
unplug everything, pop the bottom off the fuse box and unplug those also, with everything unpluhed pull the harness into the car


and with everything outta the bay


so that where im at now, tune in later for more :)
 
#3 · (Edited)
ok back to work

remove fender, corner light and skirt


this is the harness i pulled in go ahead a deloom it


should look like this. the plugs in my hand go to the fuse box


this is the section that goes to the head light and such


one at a time label and cut each wire that goes to the head light and such



this is the section that is in the car wrap it up to protect the tape

 
#4 · (Edited)
i cut a slit here cause i chose to, works just fine



put your coat hanger threw here to the inside


now tape the bundle of wires to the hanger



before ya pull it threw remove this


now i used 10 gauge speaker wire again and used the same hole as the other side


grab the harness and attack the ground block
 
#6 ·
good shit,but why not use this hole instead of killing the door harness hole???

[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
 
#7 · (Edited)
this is the headlight put it threw here


rad fan, feed this atop of the head light



horn


white plug s the corner light, the one im holding is for ac which i took outbut you can run it down with the horn wires, might have to extend the ac harness


now tape up the wires like ya did before then attach it to whatever your using to pull it threw the fender


no ya should have this


start to solder and heat shrink
 
#20 ·
That solder bead looks pretty thick, I'd be worried about changing the resistance of the wires. Why not build extension harness' with spare plugs? Or just use good crimp connectors?

Also don't get cutting into the side of the door harness boot, the bottom maybe but the side that faces the front wheels?

Seems pointless to spend all the time de pinning if you're just going to glob solder in two places in the middle.

My last question is why label the wires? Aren't they all color coded?

Sorry if I'm missing something I've certainly never done this but I would avoid multiple cuts and any solder joints if I were going to.
 
#22 ·
My last question is why label the wires? Aren't they all color coded?

Sorry if I'm missing something I've certainly never done this but I would avoid multiple cuts and any solder joints if I were going to.
Would you rather work with reading a wire diagram on your face or label each wire simply with tape/labels? It just makes life easier. Same as working with a engine harness. I know all the plugs where they go and wire colors but I still label everything lol.
 
#23 ·
You don't need a wiring diagram to know that blue/white goes to blue/white and red/brown goes to red/brown... that's my point. Unless there are multiple wires in the same harness with the same color codes... but that is pretty unlikely.

It doesn't matter WHAT the wires do it matters that they're connected to the right wire on both ends.
 
#25 ·
There are some wires that use the same colors. Just have to make sure you dont mix them up.
 
#27 ·
Could this be done with the motor in the car? I feel like giving myself a project but don't have the equipment to pull my motor?
 
#28 ·
the parts he's shown so far don't involve the engine loom at all. it's the accessory harness's that run down the driver and pass side fenders.

To answer your question more directly, yes you could do it w/o pulling the motor. Search around for more writeups I'm pretty sure most do it with the engine in.

All the bay connectors can be disconnected and pulled basically free of the engine bay so there shouldn't be a problem.
 
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