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Discussion Starter #1
Ok first off I have searched and I know the technical difference between the different versions of vtec. My question is from a driving standpoint, what is the difference in the 3 stage vtec? I understand it has the economic mode, the normal mode and the high light or vtec mode, but is there a difference as far as vtec change overs and such?
I have driven non vtec, and normal vtec, and he lame intake only vtec. But never driver a 3 stage, and I have a chance to buy a swap for cheap.
So anyone with some experience with a d15b 3 stage vtec, in actual driving condition again lot looking for the technical info, please chime in!

Also, I drive a 97 civic lx with a d16y7, as far as I know to put a y8 motor in all I would need is the complete motor, including the vtec solenoid, and a civic ex ecu? I want it to be a pain free as possible because this will be my first swap. And before anyone says get an obdI ecu, I live in Cali and I like having a legal car that will pass smog inspection.

Thanks to everyone in advance.
 

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Any vtec d is hardly noticeable. I wouldn't over spend to get it. If the price is right then go for it. Notec is a better platform in my opinion, just cause their is less to break

Get a obd1 p28 easier to upgrade later. No one a checks a ecu while testing for emissions
 

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3 stage is on the intake side only, it will be no different then regular D series VTEC. Just way better fuel economy
 

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Get a obd1 p28 easier to upgrade later. No one a checks a ecu while testing for emissions
Yes they do, they plug in a scanner. If it don't communicate then you fail and OBD1 doesn't...
 

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94 Civic Cx
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If your in cali idk the legallities of emissions there but wouldnt the lean burn cause raised emissions? I forgot the name of the shop but their website posted a bunch of info on how to get 3 stage vtec to work properly even on forced induction setups if i find the link ill post it up
 

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2005 Legacy GT
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If your in cali idk the legallities of emissions there but wouldnt the lean burn cause raised emissions? I forgot the name of the shop but their website posted a bunch of info on how to get 3 stage vtec to work properly even on forced induction setups if i find the link ill post it up
My understanding of a "lean" condition is that there is less fuel being burned. Which would, theorectially, lower the emissions coming out.
 

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2005 Legacy GT
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It's possible that I am as well. But I'd think if the combusting hydrocarbon was the limiting factor in the burn, it would be easier to acheive a more complete combustion event, thereby creating a cleaner burn.

It makes sense in my head but that doesn't mean science is on my side on this one.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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If your in cali idk the legallities of emissions there but wouldnt the lean burn cause raised emissions? I forgot the name of the shop but their website posted a bunch of info on how to get 3 stage vtec to work properly even on forced induction setups if i find the link ill post it up
you could do it with crome gold really easily using a "system event"
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Again I don't want to get into changing to obd 1 and tuning. This is not got to be the fastest civic, there is plenty of kids around where I live going fast enough, but I would like a little more pep, and I'm sure switching to a y8 is going to be enough to put a smile on my face without breaking the bank.
So do I need motor and ecu? From same year I mean, if I get a 97 ex motor and ecu is it just plug and play?
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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96-98 is obd2a so if you get a 96-98 ex ecu it will be plug and play, if you get a 99-00 you will need a conversion harness from obd2a to obd2b. You will notice a big difference in power climbing hills and stuff (less downshifting) but a stock y8 put a smile on your face, I doubt it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I do quite a lot of downshifting being that I live in a valley and pretty much any drive over 30 miles means climbing multiple hills. So if a y8 would give me a little more power and less work to get it then that sounds exactly like what I want.

To everyone saying switch to obd1 to get more power. First I live in California and yes they do know if you swapped your ecu when you go in for inspection. also I look at it this way, I can get a y8 motor and ecu for around 200$, not only is that motor going to be better down the road if I do decide I need more power, but even if I only get 10hp more from the swap, that equals out to 20$ per 1hp. I would love to see someone find me a better deal to add power to my daily driver.
And that's just it, it's a daily driver for me and my wife. I'm not building a race car. I'm looking to make my daily not such a slouch. I think all that combined will definitely put a smile on my face.

Thanks for everyone's input. I have decided to pick up the y8. I'm currently building a shop in my backyard for auto work so come is winter I'll have a nice warm cozy spot to work.

Thanks agains people. This forum is awesome both for knowledge and just for bullsh!t.
 
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