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Discussion Starter #1
So, tomorrow I am doing a clutch replacement. I was replacing the clutch pilot bearing (cheap, so why not), banged it in with a small wood block. And this happened:


Soo.. new flywheel? Epoxi glue? Fuck it and install it the way it is?

Thanks everyone.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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you can get a brand new LUK flywheel for around $40 shipped from rockauto.


just buy a new one.
 

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08 H-D Ultra Classic
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I would run it if I could not get another one since the flywheel shouldn't be walking on the shaft the bearing will hold it. But if you could find a cheap replacement do it for peace of mind.

A single groove radial ball bearing is good for axial loads which you should have but will come apart with ease if for some reason you have any thrust loads which you should not!
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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shouldn't be any thrust loads? what?

yeah, it will definitely have thrust loads from the pressure plate! that's why motors have thrust washers!
 

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If there is thrust loads then your crank is walking back and forth in the mains and would push your bearings out of the bottom end. The amount of thrust should be minimal like .001 or .0001 (not sure the exact amounts so don't hold me to it) very very small amounts thrust washer bearings are in there to minimalize it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input guys.

This flywheel was just resurfaced, I can get a used one from the scrapyard, but it'll be kinda expensive, plus resurfacing(that explains the weird shine @beerdrinking, it's actually very smooth to the touch),

This car is my dd, and since I can't afford to stop the car and wait for parts,or the parts themselves.. I'm gonna run it. Glue the little ring with JB weld and pray it doesn't grenade on me. Wish me luck!

Thanks everyone, and if anyone else (like tranzex lol) wants to chime in I'll be listening
 

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94 Integra
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That's not the side that touches the crank, that's why it looks like crap. Honda uses a relatively rough yet precise cut on that side, so it's fine.

I'd say to keep & use it, however you may want to "stake" that bearing. Pull the bearing, put a dimple or 2 with a hard punch near the lip you broke off (on the face in the picture), and it should push/bulge some metal into the bearing area. The bearing will not be able to pass that edge due to the bulge. A blob from a tack weld would do the same, just don't weld to the bearing.

Just beware the metal Honda used is very hard. It is relatively brittle and may be hard to get any weld to stick. Practice on a spare first.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's not the side that touches the crank, that's why it looks like crap. Honda uses a relatively rough yet precise cut on that side, so it's fine.

I'd say to keep & use it, however you may want to "stake" that bearing. Pull the bearing, put a dimple or 2 with a hard punch near the lip you broke off (on the face in the picture), and it should push/bulge some metal into the bearing area. The bearing will not be able to pass that edge due to the bulge. A blob from a tack weld would do the same, just don't weld to the bearing.

Just beware the metal Honda used is very hard. It is relatively brittle and may be hard to get any weld to stick. Practice on a spare first.
Great info. Thank you very much, I just JB welded it, tomorrow I'll test it for strenght. If it fails, I'll do as you said.
 

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Why would you jb weld it back on? You probably just raised that surface up, it needs to be flat and true to the crankshaft, if you raised that small piece up by placing epoxy to it, it will tighten to the crank ever so slightly cockeyed, not good, all kinds of issues

Should have run it as was
 

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My only concern would be that the piece you broke off there is like an alignment dowel. That, in my opinion, could cause problems. I would personally not run that. Even on my daily beater.
 

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Don't use JB weld. THat area will see a lot of thermal expansion/contraction and it will just pop off. Worst case will see it stuck between the plate/FW and melt. The hole itself is what aligns it. It also doesn't really matter what depth it is at. If it walks it's way out, the input shaft's bevel leading to the splines will keep it in place. I've done a lot of investigating this with my plateless H2B project.

Just stake it on the face or inside near the lip that broke off and be done with it. You just need a nub of metal sticking out so the bearing catches it and doesn't pass it.
 

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See above...
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Just another member coming in to say NO to your JB Welb job. Remove it all, debur the surrounding area, and run.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Damn it.. I went without internet on the weekend and couldn't see your answers.. The thermal expansion really makes sense..I wish I had'nt installed it. well,if it blows up, at least I'll know why. Thanks.
 

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My civic
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My only concern would be that the piece you broke off there is like an alignment dowel. That, in my opinion, could cause problems. I would personally not run that. Even on my daily beater.
Input shaft, 3 alignment dowels, 6 bolts, I think hell be fine. Just no more hitting that shit with your BFH.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Input shaft, 3 alignment dowels, 6 bolts, I think hell be fine. Just no more hitting that shit with your BFH.
Does BFH mean bloody fucking hammer? lol

Everything went ok up till I found out theres a dead bearing inside my tranny. FML and starting to look for a new one...
 
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