[samuraiz]

So my project CRX is trying to be as big of a headache as possible. I started it this morning to make sure the temp gauge was working (previously it was not) only to discover a new rattling noise that APPEARS to be comming from the head, though I sure hope not. I've never diagnosed a noise like this before, so I'm looking for a few pointers, hopefully thoughts on what it might be that doesn't make the rest of my day suck!

I would describe the noise as a "buzzing" that becomes more noticable when you rev it up a bit, and then goes away at higher rpms. I'll play with it some more to get some exact numbers. I thought it was the flywheel cover like last time, but it appears to be secure.

The car is an 88CRX and the engine is a d15y5, I've taken it out for a few test drives without running into this problem, and it also just occured to me that I've never heard the radiator fan come on, though it does work when hooked up to a 6V source (that's all I had).

 

[samuraiz]

Doesn't do it immediately after starting, showed up about 60 seconds after starting, It looked like it was still cold idling at around 1000rpm, though it was definately doing it at warm idle earlier. Currently it's pretty quiet but when you rev it up and let it fall back down, it is much more clearly heard, it varies from a harsh buzzing to an almost jingling.

I tried to poke around with a screwdriver listening to the handle, and though I heard plenty of interesting noises, none sounded like, or even changed pitch with my culprit. Where do I need to be listening?

What am I listening to here?

 

[Axl]

The car is an 88CRX and the engine is a d15y5, I've taken it out for a few test drives without running into this problem, and it also just occured to me that I've never heard the radiator fan come on, though it does work when hooked up to a 6V source (that's all I had).

if your motor is working, you should check the thermoswitch. it is located at thermostat cover. It is responsible for turning the fan on after some specific coolant temperature 91-95 degree C (196-203 degree F) and goes off in 3-8 degree C lower than that. this info is for EG, i am not sure if it is same for yours too!

Good luck

 

[95 R-81 Cx]

It might be your valves. When was the last time you had them adjusted?

 

[samuraiz]

It might be your valves. When was the last time you had them adjusted?

Never, i've only driven this car 3 times, only once did I leave my neighborhood. It hasn't been drivable for very long, the motor has approximately 90k on it. Should valve noise come and go like that? I thought it would be a more consistent thing? Can I check them myself?

 

[UnUnOctium]

sounds like the valve rockers, remove the head cover and check how their spacing is and adjust accordingly. Had that with my car when my dad first bought it, previous owner wasn't much of a "maintenance freak" :\

 

[samuraiz]

sounds like the valve rockers, remove the head cover and check how their spacing is and adjust accordingly. Had that with my car when my dad first bought it, previous owner wasn't much of a "maintenance freak" :\

How serious is that? How do you adjust them? I just replaced the valve cover gasket because it was leaking, is it possible I messed something up?

 

[95 R-81 Cx]

Doesn't take much time at all. Drain oil, turn cyl 1 to Tdc, remove valve cover, use a feeler gauge and a phillips and adjust the screw thing to what it says in a helms or haynes manual for the intake and exhaust, and repeat.

I probably missed something but I just wanted to let you know how easy it is.

I hear the noise at idle and when I rev it up lightly but when I get on the gas the sound of the intake drowns a lot of the sound out. Either way it's apart of the cars maintenence schedule anyways to have the valve lash adjusted.

 

[samuraiz]

Alright, at least now I have a course of action. Any other thoughts? what do screwed up valves normally sound like?

The engine also tries to stall when it's stone cold, though that's likely caused by the 88 vintage fuel pump.

 

[samuraiz]

Anyone got a set of directions for doing this? Or know where I can find the valve gap specs for a d16y5?

 

[guest]

I'm guessing the spec is the same as a y7.

I hate to say it, but I have to get this off of my chest. It clearly sounds as if you've never done a valve lash adjustment before. Honestly this is probably the worst thing to have to do on a car. Esp. on the intake side. It make's it so much easier if you remove the IM. If the the IM isn't an issue, try to manouver a feel gauge around the IM, it's deciding what's a slight drag and then not moving the adjustment while tightening it. GOD, I hate doing that. Maybe I'm just to maticulous about and try to hard to make it perfect.

 

[turboedpickup]

yeah... i've been trying to figure out what the heck is a "slight drag" as well... but to the OP...you don't need to drain the oil to adjust the valve lash.

 

[custom_junky]

i've done valve lash adjustments on two different honda's to date: 01 civic (d17a2), and a 98 civic (d16y8)...and here is how you do it (please bear with me since i have no pics):

first thing is first, you will need the following tools:
1. a screw driver
2. a torque wrench + metric socket set
3. a feeler gauge
4. a helms or haynes manual
5. rtv liquid gasket (for the valve cover gasket)
6. a 1/2 inch socket wrench + metric sockets (1/2 for the crank pulley bolt)
7. permanent marker or lack thereof

after you get the tools here is the operation:
1. take off the valve cover and top timing belt cover.

2. take the marker and mark the crank pulley bolt so you know where in alignment it is with the crank pulley (during the next step you want to make sure that the bolt doesn't get moved).

3. use the required size socket and 1/2" wrench and turn the crank pulley bolt counterclockwise until the cam gear says that cylinder one it is top dead center (use the manual to help you find out what top dead center is).

4. use the manual to find out what the proper lash is on the intake valve, once found use the feeler gauge to see if the proper lash is there. this is done by taking the gauge and fitting it between the valve top and the rocket arm. if there is no friction the valve lash is to big, if the amount of friction is so-so then the valve lash is correct, if you can't fit the gauge between it is too tight. (in the manual it will give you too gauge sizes use the gauge that is between the two sizes).

5. to adjust the valve lash, take the torque wrench and proper socket and loosen the nut on the rocker arm. then using the screw driver and feeler gauge adjust up (clockwise) or down (counterclockwise) the rocker arm adjustment screw to make the gauge feeler correct.

6. after proper adjustment use the torque wrench and properly torque down the nut.

7. double check the valve lash with the feeler gauge to make sure you didn't move the adjustment screw when torquing down the nut. if the screw moved, repeat steps 5-6 until proper adjustment after the torquing of the nut.

8. repeat steps 5-7 only this time for the exhaust side NOTE: the exhaust side will have a different lash than the intake side, so check the manual for both.

9. once you are finished adjusting the valves for the piston, rotate the crank counter clockwise until the cam gear move one quarter turn counterclockwise.

10. goto the next piston in the firing order repeat steps 5-9 for the next three pistons.

11. once all valves are adjusted and torqued down to proper specifications, clean off the surface that the valve cover gasket will be touching and clean off the valve cover gasket and valve cover where the gasket touches.

12. place rtv liquid gasket in the appropriate areas for full seal.

13. replace the valve cover on the cylinder head and torque down the valve cover bolts to proper specification.

14. give rtv one hour to set and then you can drive the car.