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well this is how the story goes. I've been messing around with a couple of obd1 ecus and I've seen that some pins are extremely hard to desolder. Do any of you guys have that problem. Cause this is a big pain in the ass. I've tried everything but it feels like three a solid piece of steel instead of solder stuff.slould I bust out the drill? Help!
 

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Are you making sure youre heating the joints up enough? This was the issue I was having on my first chipped ecu. It takes some practice but you'll figure out what will work for you and you'll get the hang of it quickly.
 

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There is nothing difficult about de-soldering with the right tools...go to you local electronics supply store and pick up some solder wicking and/or a solder sucker(its a vacuum plunger)..if you use the wicking, place the wicking between the iron and the piece to be removed and the solder is "wicked" up...the solder sucker is self explanatory....
 

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you'll need a good soldering iron, a desoldering pump or desoldering wick. What you want to do is NOT have the iron heat directly on the board because you will burn the pin and you can ruin the board. put the heat on the chip pin and wait until you see the solder get soft. at this point you can use the desoldering pump to suck out the solder. or user the wick. The toughest pins will always be the FIRST (1) and last (28). for some reason they double the solder maybe to hold it in place when the other pins get soldered in. hope this helps!

ApE...X
 

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i have a weller butane powered solder gun....heats up lenty...but its just not cutting it
ya the butane irons are crap! go to radioshack and get you a nice 15 dollar one and some desolering braid and youll be good
 

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Discussion Starter #11
you'll need a good soldering iron, a desoldering pump or desoldering wick. What you want to do is NOT have the iron heat directly on the board because you will burn the pin and you can ruin the board. put the heat on the chip pin and wait until you see the solder get soft. at this point you can use the desoldering pump to suck out the solder. or user the wick. The toughest pins will always be the FIRST (1) and last (28). for some reason they double the solder maybe to hold it in place when the other pins get soldered in. hope this helps!

ApE...X
yes thats exactly my problem...the first 1 and the last 2----do you do anything special to those or just keep doing what you were :winkiss: thanks
 

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This is what I use:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

Only problem is tips do go out after a little while. I'd say enough to do maybe 3 ECU's and then you'd need to change them.
same as i use for desoldering but i reshape and clean m tip with a flat file so it lasts longer but they still need to be changed once in a while

i <3 my weller butane iron for on the go wire jobs keep it in my car tool box, instant heat and gets really hot when needed for big wires, also its short so you dont get that awkward long tip that amplifies the slightest shake x10
 

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Unfortuantly if you dont have a adjustable heat iron your gonna have a hard time. the radio shack one is 45w which should be good enough to desolder the chips. for 11 bucks, you cant beat it!! Just heat it up and make sure you vacuum the solder. you may have to do it a few time because those pins are stubborn at times. hope this helps!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Unfortuantly if you dont have a adjustable heat iron your gonna have a hard time. the radio shack one is 45w which should be good enough to desolder the chips. for 11 bucks, you cant beat it!! Just heat it up and make sure you vacuum the solder. you may have to do it a few time because those pins are stubborn at times. hope this helps!!
thanks :)

thank you all for your help :)


im wasted:beer:
 
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