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duh
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Discussion Starter #1
New walmart battery. New alternator from Autozone.

And the battery is still gradually discharging LIKE the alternator is bad...
(measured volts across the battery posts)
Battery light (on the dash) is on.

Could this just be a grounding issue?
Most look like shit, kinda rusty, and I live by the ocean..

Now, while the car is at an idle.....
Volts across the positive alternator post to the alternator housing is 14.1+
From positive alternator post to chassis ground is 13.5 ish
And across the battery posts is 12.6 and dropping..

Ground issue right?
Any other ideas?
Please discuss. =]
 

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Bad wires. Put new ground wires on and a new wire from alt to battery. Make sure all connection are tight and clean.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #3
Bad wires. Put new ground wires on and a new wire from alt to battery. Make sure all connection are tight and clean.
yup, or that. =]
Tomorrows project I guess.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #5

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Brokedick Millionaire
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disconnect the plug and main wire from the alt and recheck voltage issues.

I've seen "new" AZ alts have bad diodes in them.

Wait until the alternator is shorted internally and only why to remove it is pull the motor due to rust issues.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #7
Wait until the alternator is shorted internally and only why to remove it is pull the motor due to rust issues.
I've gotten it out without pulling the motor. You're talking about the "pivot" bolt that goes thru the alternator in the bottom bracket being completely corroded so you can't pull it out, although it may turn. I used a torch and some heat shields to burn the heads off the bolts that go thru the bottom bracket into the engine block, sketchy, but a wicked time saver. =]

disconnect the plug and main wire from the alt and recheck voltage issues.
I still haven't touched the Delsol since this issue. It's just been stuck in the garage. I'm going to unplug the wires and recheck voltage right now.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. All the wires UNhooked from the alternator, from Positive Alt. post to chassis ground I get 14.5+ volts.

Reconnect everything to the alternator and pull off the negative wire from the battery and the car stays running. Battery light is still on on the dash.

This is puzzling to me.

Can I and should I run a brand new wire from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery?
Where does the car get the voltage reading from to tell the dash light to come on when there isn't enough voltage?

[[[BTW, all ground wires are brand new. New wire from chassis to motor, motor to alternator, and then alternator to chassis. (yes I grounded the alternator directly with a wire in case the brackets were just not getting the job done.)]]]
 

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The white/blue wire is the one for the low battery light on the cluster. It's in the drivers side shock tower plug. The ecu all so has this wire.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks man. Any insight as to my problems?
 

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Try hooking up the alt power (fat) wire to battery. It might be the connection from the under hood fuse box from alt to battery that's causing your issue. It's the only thing I see that hasn't been replaced.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #12
I will try that.
But it's weird, with the car running, I have 14+ volts across the battery posts.
With the car turned off, I'm now at 12.9 volts(dropping with every engine restart), when I started an hour ago with a fully charged battery(charged with a charger) it was around 13.8
So I'm still losing voltage from the battery thru the many times I've started the engine in the past hour.

Could I have a bought a new bad battery? It's a walmart special.
 

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Take the neg battery terminal off the battery,take a test light and hook one end to the neg battery terminal and the other end to the battery. The light will come one if there's some thing drawing power. Start to take out fuses one by one till the light goes off. When the light goes off see what that fuse does, this should help narrow down if there's some thing that's drawing to much power while the car is off.


http://youtu.be/zdIKNnwEjIs
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #14
ok, Just did that. No light. I didn't think it was parasitic drain. The car has just sat for 3 months(since this problem has started), but I have been starting it about once per week to move it around the garage or driveway. Pisses me off, runs mint, but won't charge.

I just made a new wire from the Pos. Alt terminal to the Pos. batt. terminal.
Battery light on the dash is still on.
Voltage across the battery terminals is 14+, voltage across the alternator to chassis is 14+.

FUCK.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #15
Fuck it. I'm bout to go ride this bitch around for a min.
brb
 

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Might be a bad battery.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #17
Just got back from a beat run....
The last 3 times I checked the battery with the car off after putting the new Alt to Batt wire.

13.09
13.22
13.33

Seems like it's charging, kinda.. But the battery light is still on the whole time the car is running.
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #18
2nd brand new battery in the car now.
Voltage drops still.
But now the alternator won't put out more than 13.6 volts.

Going to buy another new alternator now......... blaahhh....
 

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duh
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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, My 1st alternator that I bought from AutoZone was BAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They tested it and it failed!! I was sooo happy. =]

So now I'm slamming in the 2nd new one. Hopefully this one is good. =]
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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the battery, at rest, car off for awhile, will only really read about 13.00 volts when it's fully charged.

Anything above that value from the alt IS charging it.
 
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