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Step 1: Check your header and be sure that it is the correct header. Also be sure that the C.A.R.B. plate is securely fastened.

Step 2: Loosen and remove the three 12mm bolts holding on the heat shield

Step 3: This is what it should look like from the bottom. Be sure to pay close attention to hold things go together in the case you need to return it to stock.

Step 4: Loosen and remove the two flange bolts. The nut is a 12mm and the bolt head is a 14mm. Be careful after you remove the 12mm nut because it has a spring and could shoot the bolt out.

Step 5: Loosen and remove the two 14mm nuts that connect the header to the rear support bracket.

Step 6: Disconnect the O2 sensor from the chassis harness.

Step 7: Loosen and remove the 14mm bolts on the front support brackets. There may be two, one on each side.

Step 8: (optional) Spray the exhaust studs with some WD-40 or other lubricant.

Step 9: Loosen but do not remove the 12mm nuts holding on the stock manifold.

Step 10: With a pry bar or screw driver, gently pry the rear support bracket out of the stock header. You may need to move the header around a little. It will have a tendency to slip back in so be sure that it is out completely and it then push the header up so that it isn't lined up anymore.

Step 11: Loosen and remove the three 14mm nuts that connect the 'B' pipe to the stock manifold.

Step 12: You may have to spray a bit of WD-40 on them to get them out. In some cases the whole stud will come out. That is okay so keep moving along.

Step 13: As you remove the last nut, be sure to hold the 'B' pipe so that it doesn't fall on you. Carefully remove it from the vehicle.

Step 14: With a 22mm wrench loosen and remove the O2 sensor.

Step 15: Transfer the O2 sensor directly to the new DC header. If you have some high temp anti-seize, use a little.

Step 16: Remove the 'donut' from the stock header and transfer it to the new DC header.

Step 17: This is what it should look like after they have been transferred.

Step 18: Move to the top of the motor and completely remove the stock exhaust manifold.

Step 19: Be sure to retain your stock exhaust manifold gasket as it will be re-used. If for some reason it gets damaged, get a new one from the dealer you need to have it. The dealer cost is around $25.00

Step 20: Carefully place the new headers into position.

Step 21: Be very careful when putting the new headers up so that you don't damage the bleed valve on the clutch slave cylinder.

Step 22: Place the rear support bracket into the headers.

Step 23: Move to the top of the motor and carefully move the headers onto the exhaust studs.

Step 24: Be sure to check the studs for any damage. If any were damaged replace before proceeding.

Step 25: Reinstall all of your 12mm nuts and hand tighten.

Step 26: Starting from the inside, work your way out and tighten down to about 15ft-lbs torque. Then go over it again and torque to 23ft-lbs.

Step 27: Re-install the two 14mm nuts on the rear support bracket.

Step 28: Re-install the two exhaust flange bolts.

Step 29: Re-connect your O2 sensor.

Step 30: Your done. Start car and check for exhaust leaks. There shouldn't be any but if there are, fix the problem.



** installers note: After you install the headers, you will notice a whining noise from the motor and possibly a bit of 'ticking'. This is because the DC headers are made of a thinner steel than the stock exhaust manifold which is cast steel. You may also notice a bit of lose in torque making the car feel a bit 'sluggish'. You will in fact lose a bit of torque but you will gain in mid and high range.**
 
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Discussion Starter #5
O.K a little problem. My lbs torque wrench is too big to fit in between the header pipes....I do have a inch pound torque wrench but dont know what the would be in inch-pounds......that would be cool but anyway what if I used an extension how much would that affect the torque ( with the lbs torque wrench)?
 

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When you replace the header on a Y7, do you have to add a cat? Im ordering a DC style header that has 2 O2 sensors but will my check engine light remain on since there will be no cat between the 2?
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I did not have to add a Cat.
That came with the cat-back exhaust...the header just replaced the manifold.
The header I bought is 4-2-1, and the Cat. is about where my shifter is, maybe a little past it.
 
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