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A lot of people have done a P/S delete for various reasons. If you simply loop the fluid lines you will have some slop in the steering wheel which may cause a low-speed clunk over bumps. This will fix that and feel as tight as a rebuilt manual rack, but with a lower ratio.

The main reason for this is how Integra and 96+ Civic pinion & valve body works. The pinion shaft is actually 3 pieces - the input shaft, torsion bar, and pinion gear. The valve body slips over the input shaft, both have fluid passages in them. When you turn the wheel and the rack resists turning, the input shaft turns more than the pinion (intended slop). Since the outer valve body is 'pinned' to the pinion, this mis-aligns the fluid passages to provide power assist. When it moves the rack, it re-aligns the passages and removes assist. When you do a P/S delete by looping the lines, the slop has no reason to exist. The Miata MX-5 rack has a similar design and this is a common mod when they do a P/S delete, but I've rarely seen Honda people mention it.

To remove the pinion to work on, you have to take the valve body off the rack & pull pinion shaft out. It's pretty simple - undo two 10mm bolts, remove the lines & hoses, and tank out. Do not damage the large o-ring! Do not lose the shims around the bearing! It's best to press the pinion shaft out, but a few hammer wacks will also remove it. The ribbed valve body section pulls off with some effort. Remove the lower seal, clean it out, and toss that valve body sleeve out. The sleeve is this ribbed section with 4 black lines (hard seals).

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This is what it looks like with the valve body removed.

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In this pic I ground away where the input section meets the pinion section. You can see the space between the two. It can only move a few degrees before it hits the internal stops.

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The input splines have a pin that goes thru the top of the torsion shaft. FYI: a heavier torsion bar reduces assist and gives power steering a 'heavier' feel.

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Integra 9-tooth pinion bottom vs EK 8-tooth pinion above. They are interchangeable, so you can increase an EK's steering OR reduce an Integra's steering by swapping. You might have to re-shim tho.

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The final result after welding.

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It doesn't need much, no more than that pin at the top of the input shaft would hold. Even if the weld breaks, it will still have the internal stops. I recommend you only weld 3/8" sections at a time to keep the heat low and switch to opposite sides to keep the shaft straight. I wrapped the bearing and gear in tin foil to keep weld spatter and grit out of them. The bearing will initially feel gritty if you get it too hot, but not a big deal since it goes away & this is a low speed bearing. I also put tape on the upper seal section and lower - if you char the tape, it's too hot.

If you look between the weld and bearing, you can see a faint line - that's where the seal touches. Do not weld near that! You also want to smooth it out so you don't damage the seal when installing it. The seal doesn't need to be replaced since it's no longer holding pressure, just separating a fluid-filled section from a grease-filled section.

Here's a video I made of the before & after slop:




It will also work on the 94-95 Del Sol VTEC rack since they used the Integra rack in it. This won't work on the 92-95 Civic rack because it's a different design, it has some sort of cam system. I think you could weld up the cam bearing at the bottom but I've never looked into it. You can obviously swap in an Integra rack instead, just be aware you need the shorter Integra outer ball joints.
 
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