DarkCreep's Turbo Kit Install: The NO FAITH/Craftsman/slight knowledge build! PIX

26794 Views 109 Replies 46 Participants Last post by buzzbomb, Oct 17, 2012

DarkCreep

Discussion Starter · Feb 7, 2010 (Edited)

Alright so my brother and I both got generic turbo kits from the local shops for $700/piece.
I have a D16Y8 and he has a B18B

IT INCLUDES
-Generic .50 trim
-2.5" piping
-FM intercooler
-Silicone couplers
-T-clamps
-Oil catch can (wtf?)
-Turbo timer
-Log manifold
-Waste-gate
-Boost controller
-SSQ BOV
-Rywire OBD2B-OBD1
-P28 (awaiting)
-DSM 450CC's w/ resistor box

____________________

So all in all, my brother wants to get his done at a shop, im doing mine with my craftsman tool box. He doesn't want me to do it because the last the shop screwed him over with his install so he wants to get it installed a different shop for $600 w/ tune. Im going to prove him wrong and im going to do it myself. I dont know shit, I can do a header install, oil change lulz, intake install yadda yadda.

I pieced the kit together, and read through a DIY and it looks like its a super easy install. This thread is just to ask a few questions in case I hit a small speed bump on the road. Im going to install it 02/14/10 (one day before my 1 year anniversary of being jobless). Im trying to piece together shit before I install it. Is there anything you guys recommend I upgrade before I throw it on? The oil feed line is rubber with a steel braided wrap and the return line is a steel braided line. Ive heard bad things about oil lines so if theres anything let me know please. The car will be driven 20 miles on a basemap to the tuner, then it will have a full tune.

________

I just need an
-Extra cut off wheel to chop off block incase turbo hits the ridges
-Drill bit for oil feed line on oil pan
-Correct couplers for FMIC to charge pipe etc.

Anything else you guys recommend I pick up before the install?
Any tips on installing the boost controller?
Any tips on installing the wastegate? It has 2 spacer plates and I dont see how the would work.

Please allow me to keep my AC log manifold.

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dippincrx

· #2 · Feb 7, 2010

those are most likely not spacers. probally just extra flanges to make your dump tube. you probably wont need to shave your block either. what injectors are you running? basemap? if you got the typical ebay log manifold and can keep a/c. but you will need to modify your downpipe to work w/ it.

Pata

· #3 · Feb 7, 2010

pics of the Turbo manifold and the waist-gate.

Good shit!

What are you going with on the down pipe?

Anonymoussquid

· #4 · Feb 7, 2010

$700 for an ebay kit?

Tibby

· #5 · Feb 7, 2010

oil return and tapped pan

DarkCreep

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 7, 2010

dippincrx said:
those are most likely not spacers. probally just extra flanges to make your dump tube. you probably wont need to shave your block either. what injectors are you running? basemap? if you got the typical ebay log manifold and can keep a/c. but you will need to modify your downpipe to work w/ it.

Oh thats right. I have to give them to the muffler shop to mock on up for me right?

Pata said:
pics of the Turbo manifold and the waist-gate.

Good shit!

What are you going with on the down pipe?

Thanks man!!
Ill get pix tomorrow morning for sure!

Anonymoussquid said:
$700 for an ebay kit?

Yeap. I was going to buy another for $720 shipped with no turbo timer or catch can (which are just selling points), but I got this one for $700 picked up so I cant complain.

Tibby said:
oil return and tapped pan

The braided line? Waht do I replace it with??

and im planning on drilling the pan myself.

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DarkCreep

Discussion Starter · #7 · Feb 7, 2010

PS: That filter will NOT be used. I have an AEM Dryflow with the same dimensions ready to replace it.

punkbomb138

· #8 · Feb 7, 2010 (Edited)

all in all it looks like u got the necessities of installing the kit already. a turbo timer is easy to install so im told anyway i dont have mine hooked up yet, but u should be able to find diagrams on google for it. all i really know about them is they hook into your ebrake somehow so ppl cant steal your ride while its idling down. as for install it is retarded simple remove old manifold, put new turbo mani on, connect turbo, install charge piping from turbo to ic, and from ic to tb, that completes the system for boost. i would suggest the oil sandwich adapter on ebay for about 40 bucks it makes life easier to run your oil feed. also make sure u got the oil restrictor or there goes your turbo.as for return make sure it is downhill and not kinked or angled sharply and put your return bung on the oil pan above the windage tray. pretty easy and straight forward. do u have the resistor box for the injectors? im not sure if the above 96's needed one but my 94 did. and here is your install guide kinda for the cheap ebay turbo timers. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/265495-cheap-ebay-turbo-timer.html

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Boosted-EH-804

· #9 · Feb 7, 2010

your going to have to some cutting so you will need a welder or some more couplers for thhe drivers side. I'm sorry you wasted your money on junk and that does not look like a jrc intercooler either. But on a positive note the install is very easy. Just sit back and look at everything and you should get a clear pic of what you need to do. And just don't expect it all to fit right the first time if you get frustrated step back for a bit then come back to it. Lastly you have this thread before you fuck something up ask us for guidance we will be more than happy to help. Then lastlyy make sure your oil drain is as straight down as possible with no flat spots

Aragorn

· #10 · Feb 7, 2010

If you haven't already -->COMPLETE How-To:: Turbocharge Your Honda // Rep-ing Hypnotik Speed - Honda-Tech

DarkCreep

Discussion Starter · #11 · Feb 7, 2010

Aragorn said:
If you haven't already -->COMPLETE How-To:: Turbocharge Your Honda // Rep-ing Hypnotik Speed - Honda-Tech

Yeah thats the DIY ive been reading, its pretty good.

It also came with yellow hosing for this. Where do those lines go?

Im guessing thats the T fitting for the oil line behind the block. Anybody know what that little bracket is for? It

What line connects to that fitting?

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Self explanatory lol.
How do I get the rubber hosing over the red "bolts"? The line gets a snug fit on it, but the red "bolt" doesnt slide over the line. Am I supposed to squeeze it in or something?

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6

DarkCreep

Discussion Starter · #12 · Feb 7, 2010

This is to be taken to the muffler shop to get a custom dump tube fabbed up?

Does that end require a donut gasket of some sort? It came with a regular gasket similar to the ones that the turbo, manifold etc use.

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1.5Slowmatic

· #13 · Feb 7, 2010

pretty sure that manifold aint gonna clear ac but dont quote me on that.

speedfoos

· #14 · Feb 7, 2010

Have fun passing smog in your facist hippy state once this is installed. That said, here are some answers.

DarkCreep said:
Anybody know what that little bracket is for?

That little bracket is the oil feed flange for your turbo. If the hole is fairly small then it already has a "restrictor" built in to it. My buddy bought one of those Ebay oil line kits and his had a small hole. Also, RTV the back of that flange (yes, I know it has a gasket, do it anyway) before bolting it to the turbo. They aren't machined very well and it will leak otherwise.

Turbo timers are a waste of money, put it back up on Ebay and sell it. Unless you plan on doing doing 1st-4th gear boost pulls and then immediately pulling over, turning off the car and heading to the buffet line at Golden Corral, that 45 seconds you spend finding your phone, unbuckling your seatbelt and fixing your hair in the rearview mirror is more than enough time to make sure the oil doesn't coke as much in the turbo. Plus you don't have to fuck with your car's wiring.

That little fitting on your BOV connects to your car's vacuum (soon to be pressure if your turbo builds boost) system.

Have fun with that POS boost controller. Same buddy had one of them and we could not get it control boost at all. Top port gets a feed from your car's vac system bottom port (the one with arrow in your pic) goes out the bottom port on your wastegate. You leave the top port on the wastegate alone unless you are running an electronic boost controller.

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amperu

· #15 · Feb 7, 2010

DarkCreep said:

Ive got that same kit and trash can lol. Hope it works for ya! Lemme know so I know wether or not to bother installing mine lol.

Pata

· #16 · Feb 8, 2010

speedfoos said:
Have fun passing smog in your facist hippy state once this is installed.

OG mufuckas fear no Smog

dippincrx

· #17 · Feb 8, 2010

your manifold will retain a/c IF you redo your downpipe. you will need to make the downpipe exit on the driver side with a very sharp bend down. your going to need a shop to this if you dont have the ability to cut and weld

Wischmaster

· #18 · Feb 8, 2010

Pata said:
OG mufuckas fear no Smog

3" open downpipe all day here :TU:

To the OP, make sure you take a couple mins before drilling your oil pan to make sure it's not going to block a bolt/nut for the pan. First time I ever drilled my pan I made this mistake :sweatdrop:

siregcivic

· #19 · Feb 8, 2010

Pata said:
OG mufuckas fear no Smog

nope i had my itr swap ej1 pass smog lol and i had my type r swap eh2 pass smog, and my d15z1/z6 head turbo pass smog ej1 no problem...

gotta know the right people and stay away from the wrong cops lol

fuck cali

Reactions: 1

jksmith

· #20 · Feb 8, 2010

what are you doing for a tune? cuz $600 for install w/ a tune sounds pretty good to me, but im lazy

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