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D20.......B20???....nope it's a D20

4K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  sql_civic 
#1 · (Edited)
So it's still a little early for a build thread. As I've only collected the parts so far and haven't actually started the build yet. Well I have in my mind but no machining yet.

I'll be adding lots to this thread in the next few weeks. I hope to get a atleast one big item done every Saturday. And get smaller things done on my lunch breaks and after work.

Today I'll have pics of a z6 head cut in half so I can measure the port wall thickness. Seems k20 ports won't fit due to oil passages, i dont give a shit about coolant passages they can be welded.

Here is a my personal list of things to do before assembly. It's not complete and was ment to serve as a reminder of what's left. So it doesn't exaplne everything very well. But by reading it you will understand enough to see where this is going.

I always like doing things to the max. I'm quite well known by this quote and it's been said about me countless times (Evan only goes big or goes home, and he's already home, sooo)

I'll be burning Q16 in it.

I don't care if the motor only lasts for a few hours run time. I'm shooting for 240whp on a dyno jet. Or break 200 on a mustang dyno.

I want to beat bisimotos d16 builds HP is my only goal right now.

This whole thing is open for discussion and critisisym
But while your thinking the stoke is too long and the rods are too short. Look up 4pistons NA k24 500hp. They stroked the motor to uses a 1.47:1 rod to stroke ratio. So I'll have the same RtS ratio. my stoke is less won't be revving as high


Here is the list

BLOCK-*
D16A6 block
CSS installed first
block sleeved custom sleeves
bored and hone to 81.5mm with bore spacing changed to 86mm from 84mm
decked 0.005
block and girtle notched for rods


CRANK, RODS and PISTONS-
D17 crank with rod journls widened +2mm for d16 rods
rod journals machined on left or right side to make 86mm bore spacing
knife edged and ballanced crank
D16 forged rods with arp2000's
rod small end reamed to 21mm from OEM 19mm. -1mm off center. 136mm length rod
B series 81.5mm pistons -3 to -12cc dish
0.050 turned off the face of the piston to make 28.8mm comp height


HEAD-
d16z6 head
milled 0.100" 26CC combustion chambers
compustion chambers bored out to 79mm bore, deshrouding the valves
cumbustion chambers moved to be on 86mm bore center
+1mm ferrea 6000 valves IN/EX
new C63000 valve seats made for +1mm valves, 5 angle with custom depth.
Bisi LVL3 cam sent for regrind
bisi valve springs
supertech TI retainers
Massive port work on both Intake and Exaust sides



INTAKE, FUEL-
48MM itbs attached to my custom flange plate and 6" tapered runners
New 255 walbro fuel pump
Q16 Leaded


EXAUST-
custom header and exaust


ELECTRONICS-


BOLT ONs-



SPECS
81mmx94.4mm bore and stroke
1970CC
15:1 comp
 
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#6 ·
First thought also why try to beat someone with their own parts.

Sub'd
 
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#3 · (Edited)
You know, That's actually an awesome idea man.
I'm probably going to do that now that you mention it.

I just already own the valve springs and cam is why I was planning on using them. That will save 650usd and for me in Canada that's over 850$can.

But I agree beating his numbers without his parts would be a better thing to do. So I'm going to do just that


Also here are pics of a Z6 head cut up. Damned oil gally only 3mm into the roof of 2 of the ports. So I'll be going quite a bit wider in the ports then taller.
 

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#5 ·
Yeah for sure man..think of stuff to say. I love talking about this stuff and bouncing ideas off others.

Also that head didn't have a matching rocker assembly. It had no tec rockers in it when I took the valve cover off amd one cam journal pretty scored up.
 
#7 · (Edited)
^^ Yes if I didn't already own the cam and valve springs i never would have done it. I owned the cam and springs since 2011.

Well my custom sleeves made it to my work today. Now to finish them. 45-65-12 ductile iron. I'll harden them after I machine them to 40RC. Should be around 130,000psi

Also there is one.more shot of the head ports. I could only fit 5 in the last thread

EDIT;
you can also see the 79mm scribe line for the new combustion chamber size, that head is also milled 0.130" its a z6 head but as you can see the valve seats are cutting into the flat of the head. the valves will be deshoruded by the time they start to open. if you look at a Yamaha R6 combustion chamber (see added pic) you will see what im going for in the combustion chamber. and the there isnt much room between the chamber and the water ports in the head for an O ring, so ill be welding them up and moving them out 5mm from where they are.
im trying everything on this head to make sure i dont run into problems before doing it on the head im using.
 

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#10 ·
^^ Yes if I didn't already own the cam and valve springs i never would have done it. I owned the cam and springs since 2011.
Take something like a can of paint and mark them or tap them with a die grinder somewhere that wont effect anything or something and say they are bisi modified lol

BTW Cutaways look good I like seeing stuff like this.
 
#9 · (Edited)
It sends oil from the block to vtec solenoid
On the roof of the intake port just after the injector spray cutout it is only 3.4mm ( 0.140") it only effects 2 cylinders.
In this pics. I have it labeled
 

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#12 ·
I like it!!!!
 
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#17 ·
Yeah too set the crank up and dial it in, in two 4 jaw chucks ( one on the head stock and one on the tail stock) to matching 3mm out of the rod journals woud have taken probably 8 hours. To get all four done.

Machining the rods makes it way easier for sure.

Also I got the d13 crank from India. A member here 007 shipped it to me. I wanted to use it to build a project that hasn't started yet.
 
#20 ·
Well i have no idea how to do anything on here any more lol. Nor sure how to upload pics..i hope its easier on my computer. But on my phone i cant seem to figure it out.

Anyway. I got some more work done on this. Its slowly moving along. With winter coming it should start to move faster.

I have my rods machined. The small end is opened up for bseries wrist pin and the sides are milled to fit them on the D17 crank. They will milled to off set them due to the bore spacing being different.

The rods needed 3mm off them to fit the d17 crank and it works out that is exactly how much i need rod 1 and 4 offset. Rods 2 and 3 only needed to be offset 1mm each. Since im.working from the center line out.

I have my valve seats done. They are made of C63000 ni-alu-bronze.

The valve seats are made for me to use +2mm intake and +1mm exaust valves.
I plan on running ferrea super alloy exaust valves and supertech SS black nitrate intakes (ferrea doesnt make +2 intakes)

Sleeves are being machined as i type this. I need to rought them out, harden them and then finish machining after.

I hope to get working on the block here soon. I realized ill have to weld up the sided of the.block..by the tensioner pully mount and also the same spot on the other end. As the wider bore spacing and also the sleeves thickness will have them poking out of the block slightly.

Ill figure out how to post pics after i post this.
 
#21 ·
Turns out i need to click the "attach paper clip" not the pic looking icon
 

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#23 ·
no idea what it looks like from a phone, but on a computer
l
l
v right there is a paperclip you would click on to upload your images.
 
#24 ·
Yeah i got it figured out now lol, thanks slo. Im not even old lol but i dont like this newfangled stuff.

Well i have very crude pics of the parts of the block i need to weld up before boring for the sleeves. The area circled in red on the block pics is what i need welded up and the red circled part on the sleeves (not mine just stole from.the internet for visual purposes) pic is to show the area of the sleeve that will be coming through the side of the block if i dont building it up first.
 

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#26 · (Edited)
Yup solid bar. 175$ a foot. Should transfer heat really well and hold up to to any RPM's i smack them with. I beleive beryllium would be the only better meteral but cost held me back and they would give me cancer.

"C63000 nickel aluminium bronze combines high strength and wear resistance under severe loading conditions. The
addition of nickel increases the alloy strength without diminishing its ductility, toughness and corrosion resistance."

Ohhhh yeah she will be thin. Thicker then a B20 with 86mm bore... thinner then a B20 with a 85mm bore. Ill have to go real easy on the ignition tuning. But the q16 or M5 should help with that.

Also i used a manual mill to face then off. Ill send them out to get the big ends reaized.
 
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