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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings!

Hi, friends! Long time no see. How are you?
Finally my several years project is done and the car is running for 1,500 miles+.

My build thread: http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/101413-my-d17a2-turbo-build.html

The car has 2 maps. One with 300whp and other, with more turbo pressure, with 402.6whp. Rev limit at 7,000 RPM for now.

I would like your help, if possible, to try to solve a problem I'm having with this setup. When I use the 402.6whp map, with a turbo pressure of aprox. 1.3bar (near 20psi), after sometime, the water system gets full of this turbo pressure (I think), and the car overheats. I'm using Honda's OEM Head Gasket and ARP prisioners, with the factory OEM torque.

Does anyone know a way to solve this problem? Do I have to change the gasket? Try to use O'rings?

If you need any further information, please let me know.

Thank you all again for the attention and I hope someone can help me to solve this :)

Have a nice week!!
 

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95 civic coupe
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Greetings!

Hi, friends! Long time no see. How are you?
Finally my several years project is done and the car is running for 1,500 miles+.

My build thread: http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/101413-my-d17a2-turbo-build.html

The car has 2 maps. One with 300whp and other, with more turbo pressure, with 402.6whp. Rev limit at 7,000 RPM for now.

I would like your help, if possible, to try to solve a problem I'm having with this setup. When I use the 402.6whp map, with a turbo pressure of aprox. 1.3bar (near 20psi), after sometime, the water system gets full of this turbo pressure (I think), and the car overheats. I'm using Honda's OEM Head Gasket and ARP prisioners, with the factory OEM torque.

Does anyone know a way to solve this problem? Do I have to change the gasket? Try to use O'rings?

If you need any further information, please let me know.

Thank you all again for the attention and I hope someone can help me to solve this :)

Have a nice week!!


Arp headstuds with factory oem torque? Something's not right there.
You're pushing coolant and more than likely some head lift. My suggestion is to take the head off change the headgasket and inspect the arp studs while you're at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your fast reply, jvtec8k!!

How much torque should I use? The ARP are brand new, I changed the old ones last week. The OEM Honda Head Gasket is ok or should I try a "racing" brand?

Thanks again!
 

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95 civic coupe
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Thanks for your fast reply, jvtec8k!!

How much torque should I use? The ARP are brand new, I changed the old ones last week. The OEM Honda Head Gasket is ok or should I try a "racing" brand?

Thanks again!
Not to familiar with D17 torque specs and sequence, but I'm sure you'll find your answer if you dig deeper. I've stretched arp studs before so i had to get new ones.
 

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OEM is fine. torque specs should be around 70-80ft lbs if i remember correctly and in 20ft increments. id like someone else to clarify this. good luck with your build
 

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OEM is fine. torque specs should be around 70-80ft lbs if i remember correctly and in 20ft increments. id like someone else to clarify this. good luck with your build

I don't have the instructions on me, but yeah it's more then OEM spec. 2 step torque. Should be on ARP website.
 

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if you only torqued them at 24 pounds, you are WAAAAAY under where it should be. i just did a lil bit of digging around and found out that the d17 head studs are the same exact studs as the d16z6 studs. therefore you should be torquing them down at 60 ft lbs.

also, see this thread for more info such as torque sequence n other advice

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engi...eally-torque-arp-head-studs-straight-arp.html
 
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Wow I'm surprised it's been holding together relatively well with that little tq on the studs.
 

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Wow I'm surprised it's been holding together relatively well with that little tq on the studs.
YEah no kidding. I'm almost positive he probably stretched at least one of the studs by now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Guys, I think I've done some wrong convertion math. I'm with the car's tech manual and it clearly says 6.6 Kgf.m = 49 Lbf.m and we used 11Kgf.m. We used more than what the manual demands, right? I think I have to look for a Lbf.m torquemeter.
Attached the D17 manual (portuguese).

 

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Might just be a simple headgasket and retorque fix then let her eat! Impressive numbers btw
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What is impressing me now is that I ran the car a lot yesterday. With and without booster, I really gave it a hard time and it didn't overheat this time. I openned the radiator today first thing in the morning and the water level was OK. Very strange. Anyway, I'll change the head gasket again for a new one and retorque the studs to 60lbsf in three stages. I'll put a video of the car running as soon as I get the toyo R888 back to it. With the Yokohamas the car loose a lot of traction, even in third gear with booster OFF.

Thanks again and I'll be reporting any news from here :)
 

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Try to re-torque it first maybe it'll be fine without gasket change. And hell yes for rippers!
 
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Here we go. This is the only video I made after picking up the car. I was not used to it, yet, so it's a booster off pull. I'll do a lot of videos soon. I hope you like this one and it can show a little of how the project is going:

D17 first pull, booster off - YouTube
Sweet!! :TU: I think this car can run low 11s high 10s
 

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What is impressing me now is that I ran the car a lot yesterday. With and without booster, I really gave it a hard time and it didn't overheat this time. I openned the radiator today first thing in the morning and the water level was OK. Very strange. Anyway, I'll change the head gasket again for a new one and retorque the studs to 60lbsf in three stages. I'll put a video of the car running as soon as I get the toyo R888 back to it. With the Yokohamas the car loose a lot of traction, even in third gear with booster OFF.

Thanks again and I'll be reporting any news from here :)
What I found with mine (not turbo, all stock) was that even with a blown HG, if I kept the rpms lower, and out of v-tec (up to 3k), I could run it for about a week before it started heating back up. Real pain, though.

I think why mine blew again was that as I torqued it down, some of the bolts were sticking and jumping, so I probably over torqued a few of them.

Good luck with it!
 
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