Hi am considering getting a d16 block and installing a d17 crankshaft...has anyone done this? can pm9 pistons be used if so? no intention at all to go forced induction so staying n/a ... heard somewhere rod angle could be an issue? like to hear from someone who has actually done this...successfully i hope...thanks
d17 stroker
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I haven't done this but basically you need to use the crank and rods from the a D17. The crank is what obviously gives you the extra stroke but you need to use the rods because they are thin enough to fit on the narrower journals on the crank. Crower does make an aftermarket rod for the D17 that you could use. Another issue is that the snout of the crank has a wider diameter so you need to have that ground down to fit a D16 crank pulley and timing gear. Now I'm not 100% sure about this but you might need the D17 oil pump since it's also sized for the crank. Another problem here is that there is no hole in the pump for the dip stick for some D16s. I believe the D16Z6 block might be a good choice for this build since the dip stick is located elsewhere. The D17 oil pan and pickup might be optional but I often see them included in the mods for a setup like this.
can d16 pm9 pistons be used in this combo? not sure but heard the crank rod angle is bad on this combo...want to boost displacement and other than boring i think this is my only cost effective approach... i assume an a6 block not a good opinion either? was thinking about getting the z6 block and building that....didn't know that about the dipstick... any machine can cut down the crank snout? just want to know what i amgetting into before starting this thanks
Yes you will have to notch the block to provide clearance for the the rod.
My guess is no, you cannot use the pm9 pistons. The wrist pin size of the D17 rod different (I can't remember if it's smaller or larger). So you need a piston that fits the D17 rods. Of course the D17 pistons fit the D17 rods and the D16 75mm bore.
My guess is no, you cannot use the pm9 pistons. The wrist pin size of the D17 rod different (I can't remember if it's smaller or larger). So you need a piston that fits the D17 rods. Of course the D17 pistons fit the D17 rods and the D16 75mm bore.
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1,732 Posts
How I did it.
Here's my parts list:
D16A6 block
D17A1 crank
D17A1 pistons and rods
D17A1 oil pump
B16A crank pulley
I think I used an A6 pan with a modifed pan gasket to fit the oil pump. I also had to remove a pan stud or two from the pump to fit the pan.
The D16A6 block needed to be notched so the rods would clear.
Pistons sat .045 below the deck if I remember correctly. It was a lot lower than I thought it should be.
Here's my parts list:
D16A6 block
D17A1 crank
D17A1 pistons and rods
D17A1 oil pump
B16A crank pulley
I think I used an A6 pan with a modifed pan gasket to fit the oil pump. I also had to remove a pan stud or two from the pump to fit the pan.
The D16A6 block needed to be notched so the rods would clear.
Pistons sat .045 below the deck if I remember correctly. It was a lot lower than I thought it should be.
if i used a z6 block i wouldn't have to notch the block? is there any affordable hi compression pistons available for the d17? thanks for replies thus far already learned more then what i found by searching (couldn't find much this seems to be an uncommon mod)
noticeable improvement in power?
over a regular d16
thanks that would be great.. may have to run out to wallyworld and get new ink cartridges for the printer! lol would like to print off some info on this
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1,732 Posts
I haven't driven a regular D16 in over 6 years.
I like my ZCs better than the D17 frankenstien.
There's a lot of great info on this link on pistons and rods.
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1160787887
Note the discussion on rods towards the end.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1352993
Look for posts on H-T by Jim Truett. Here's the gist of what Jim did...
"Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 »
Hey man--are you using a d17 crank (94.4) in your d16z6 like it says in your sig? I hear it requires a bit a machining to fit, how did it work out?
Yep, D17A2 crank/rods/pistons. To put it in an A6 or Z6 block you need to notch the block for the rod swing. I used ARP rod bolts so the main girdle needed to be notched for clearance. The D17 oil pump bolts right on, and a modified Y8 main seal flange is on the rear. I used a modified Y8 aluminum oil pan. The crank pulley also needed to be opened up to 28mm to slip over the crank snout.
The low end torque is really impressive, even with my 12# flywheel. It was well worth it since it is my daily driver, and the torque has made it much more fun (coming from a boosted D15B).
I'm using a Y8 block, Crower maxi-light rods and custom Arias pistons to get to ~11.5:1 with a Y7 head. Yes, staying non-VTEC!"
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1160787887
Note the discussion on rods towards the end.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1352993
Look for posts on H-T by Jim Truett. Here's the gist of what Jim did...
"Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 »
Hey man--are you using a d17 crank (94.4) in your d16z6 like it says in your sig? I hear it requires a bit a machining to fit, how did it work out?
Yep, D17A2 crank/rods/pistons. To put it in an A6 or Z6 block you need to notch the block for the rod swing. I used ARP rod bolts so the main girdle needed to be notched for clearance. The D17 oil pump bolts right on, and a modified Y8 main seal flange is on the rear. I used a modified Y8 aluminum oil pan. The crank pulley also needed to be opened up to 28mm to slip over the crank snout.
The low end torque is really impressive, even with my 12# flywheel. It was well worth it since it is my daily driver, and the torque has made it much more fun (coming from a boosted D15B).
I'm using a Y8 block, Crower maxi-light rods and custom Arias pistons to get to ~11.5:1 with a Y7 head. Yes, staying non-VTEC!"
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