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Discussion Starter #1
I'm mostly done assembling my D17 -> Z6 shortblock, and I just wanted to share my experience thus far, and ask a quick question.

Block is a bone stock Z6 block with ~200k mi. Donor engine was a D17A1 with ~30k miles, pristine, beautiful condition internally.

Sticking with stock bore / pistons / rods. Reused original D17 rod bearings, they were perfect, and had perfect oil clearance. Used ACL standard main bearings and thrust washers, have .0015-.002" oil clearance on all. I also used the D17 oil pump / pickup / oil pan / timing gear / crank pulley. Haven't yet verified that stock Z6 lower timing cover will work w/o modification.

The block and girdle needed minor clearancing / notching. One thing I had to do that I had never heard mentioned before, the #4 rod cap barely bumps the oil rail on the girdle, so it had to have minor clearancing done.

For the block, I used a 3 stone hone to prepare for new rings. Since the stroke is longer, the piston moves up and down further than the old crank did, so parts of the cylinder would be used that never had been. This is probably a bare minimum, obviously much better to go oversize and get a fresh bore / hone.

The only problem I have run into so far is that I need to use the D17 rear main cap (goes with the D17 oil pan, slight radius). However, one bolt hole and one dowel doesn't line up. And the dowel that does line up is larger than the hole in the block.

I'm thinking about either swapping the Z6 cap dowel into the D17 cap, or opening up the dowel hole on the block, and using the D17 cap. Is there any cause for alarm running a main cap with only one dowel? 3/4 bolts line up, and the oil pan will also be bolted to the cap. Seems like it should be fairly well located, I am just worried about premature oil seal failure on that end if the cap is positioned slightly out of round.

Other than that, the swap / build has been a breeze. I'm surprised more people aren't doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmm, I was thinking the Z6 oil pan wouldn't fit with the D17 pump. Haven't double checked this, but I think it's correct.
 

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The only problem I have run into so far is that I need to use the D17 rear main cap (goes with the D17 oil pan, slight radius). However, one bolt hole and one dowel doesn't line up. And the dowel that does line up is larger than the hole in the block.

I'm thinking about either swapping the Z6 cap dowel into the D17 cap, or opening up the dowel hole on the block, and using the D17 cap. Is there any cause for alarm running a main cap with only one dowel? 3/4 bolts line up, and the oil pan will also be bolted to the cap. Seems like it should be fairly well located, I am just worried about premature oil seal failure on that end if the cap is positioned slightly out of round.

Other than that, the swap / build has been a breeze. I'm surprised more people aren't doing this.
use the rear man, oil pump, pan and pick up of the d17. as for the dowel pin snap it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That was what I was leaning towards, I'm just hesitant to get rid of dowels if I don't have to. I assume this is what you did on your build though, so I feel a little better about doing it. :D
 

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That was what I was leaning towards, I'm just hesitant to get rid of dowels if I don't have to. I assume this is what you did on your build though, so I feel a little better about doing it. :D
:bigok:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would open up the hole and fit the dowel in. Do you think you could drill it out and get a tight fit? Even if you mess it up, it's just as good as not using the dowel altogether. Same thing with the bolt hole. I would drill one and tap it the best you can. You have nothing to lose.
I think I am going to try to swap the Z6 dowel into the D17 cap first - if that doesn't work or fit right, I'll open up the hole on the block a little to make the D17 dowel fit.

The Z6 dowel is solid, and the D17 dowel is hollow - it's ID is about the same as the OD on the Z6 dowel, but maybe 1/16" larger OD.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Was just out looking at some clearances. Looks like on my girdle, the outermost crank counterweights were dragging on the girdle. Another spot to look out for when clearancing - that's the 2nd spot I've had to touch up that I've never heard mentioned. I should get some pics...

Edit: After glancing through the Super D article again, I do see a lot of clearancing work on those spots. Guess I should have looked at the pictures as well as the text, ha!
 

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rofl. id rep but i gotta spread the love :)
hater...

Was just out looking at some clearances. Looks like on my girdle, the outermost crank counterweights were dragging on the girdle. Another spot to look out for when clearancing - that's the 2nd spot I've had to touch up that I've never heard mentioned. I should get some pics...
here some of my engine pics clearance wise.





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Discussion Starter #17
I swiped your pic and added where I just clearanced - after tqing the girdle down and turning the engine over by hand a couple times, I had a few shiny spots in the metal... :D

 

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I swiped your pic and added where I just clearanced - after tqing the girdle down and turning the engine over by hand a couple times, I had a few shiny spots in the metal... :D

mine is a A6 block so those spots are not in the same spot as a z6 or y8. Thats why yours had to be touched up
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would open up the hole and fit the dowel in. Do you think you could drill it out and get a tight fit? Even if you mess it up, it's just as good as not using the dowel altogether. Same thing with the bolt hole. I would drill one and tap it the best you can. You have nothing to lose.
Ended up drilling out the dowel hole in the block to accommodate the larger D17 rear cap dowels. 17/64" was the bit I used, nice and snug.

Also got the oil pickup installed, and main caps all torqued to spec.

I broke a single pistons ring while installing the pistons, so waiting for the replacement to come in so I can put the last piston in and torque it. Just going to work on other little stuff in the meanwhile.
 

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Ended up drilling out the dowel hole in the block to accommodate the larger D17 rear cap dowels. 17/64" was the bit I used, nice and snug.

Also got the oil pickup installed, and main caps all torqued to spec.

I broke a single pistons ring while installing the pistons, so waiting for the replacement to come in so I can put the last piston in and torque it. Just going to work on other little stuff in the meanwhile.
cool! glad to hear you got it working. keep us updated!
 
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