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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Long time reader, first time thread starter..... Just got done swapping my newly built z6 with p29s into my EH9 last night. I realize tuning is VERY critical but my question to you is, other than retarding the dizzy, never going WOT past 3k rpm (and not letting it sit in one rpm range for too long), what else can i do to make sure this lasts through the break in period?

p29s sitting on FJ R spec rods
acl race bearings
stock p28 ecu
12.2:1 cr
stock head
AEM adjustable cam gear
skunk2 IM
ITR throttle body
240cc injectors
dc 4-1 headers
aem ram air
arp in rods/head
walbro 255lph
blox FPR (yet to be installed)

Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

EDIT: Break in is over!
IT'S DONE! 2,700 miles later... and only $300 to tune at Ericks Racing! The beast is now pushing 133.2 whp and 116.1 ft/lb of torque! Couldn't be happier...now just wait till the head is done MWHAHAHAHAH!!!!

:bigok:

edit: i haven't forgot to post pics of the rod/piston setup, just haven't had the the time...i'll probably just start a new thread with all pics, specs and dyno results...
 

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Classic Man
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16,355 Posts
im curious how u managed to mount the P29s on the FJT rods?


for a break in, make sure you have a PCV system attached, that provides vacuum.

if it was me, id just use a stock ecu, retard the timing a hefty amount, run some 94oct. let it warm up, varying the RPMs... change the oil, go beat the fuck out of it for 20-30 miles, change the oil again, and if u havent started already, start tuning.

change the oil again around 500-700 miles and then one more time around 1500-2000 to a synthetic (just my preference).

prepare for a thousand different break in procedures, but this one has worked best for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
im curious how u managed to mount the P29s on the FJT rods?


for a break in, make sure you have a PCV system attached, that provides vacuum.

if it was me, id just use a stock ecu, retard the timing a hefty amount, run some 94oct. let it warm up, verifying the RPMs... change the oil, go beat the fuck out of it for 20-30 miles, change the oil again, and if u havent started already, start tuning.

change the oil again around 500-700 miles and then one more time around 1500-2000 to a synthetic (just my preference).

prepare for a thousand different break in procedures, but this one has worked best for me.
i sent the pistons in to have c-clips inserted ;x

do you think i should go full retard? (insert tropic thunder joke here)

I know nothing about tuning, so i'm not going to start doing it on my own. Unless someone on here is in Southern Cali and would be willing to throw me a bone?
 

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Classic Man
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well, stock would be around 16deg at the crank pulley, and IIRC about 28-23 degrees in the map. that SHOULD be fine on 94 oct. but if you wanted to be safe maybe retard the dizzy to around 10-12 at the crank pulley.


what type of gas is in the tank right now? you want to drain out anything old and sub-94, just to be on the safe side.

im doing a 13:1 Y8/P29 build right now on the side. im just planning on running a stock o2 sensor with a stock Z6 map for a base, minus a little timing for the break in. however, i know my way around engine management software so its easy for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
91 oct in Southern California :3dtard:

I drove it to work (25 miles) and seems to be fine...i'll check the plugs for any deposites when i get home. I did hear a rattling noise BUT that same EXACT noise was there BEFORE i swapped this motor in, so i'm thinking it's just a loose washer somewhere that i haven't caught (especially with the ES reds in). It's made that same rattle noise since my front end collision over 3 years ago.
 

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most of the break in is done in the first 200 kms. keep the engine varying rpm, and make sure the oil is well filtered and changed way early. Aside from that, TUNE TUNE TUNE.
 

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I just run them like hell.............. I believe the cross hatches act like sandpaper but only for a short time If you don’t get the rings seated thy never will. If its going to blow its going to blow what’s a extra day or two. I like full pressure on the rings to grind them into place = wot.

I tune out of the gate then retune latter / if any problems come around depending on the motor and money involved.

On start up I will unplug the injectors and crank it over a bit to prime oil pressure. Plugem back in and fire it up run it for a little bit drain the oil and refill. I brake in with cheap non synthetic oil.

But I am not normal..............
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just run them like hell.............. I believe the cross hatches act like sandpaper but only for a short time If you don’t get the rings seated thy never will. If its going to blow its going to blow what’s a extra day or two. I like full pressure on the rings to grind them into place = wot.

I tune out of the gate then retune latter / if any problems come around depending on the motor and money involved.

On start up I will unplug the injectors and crank it over a bit to prime oil pressure. Plugem back in and fire it up run it for a little bit drain the oil and refill. I brake in with cheap non synthetic oil.

But I am not normal..............
:bigok:

That's exactly what i've done! instead of running it like hell right now i only go WOT between ~2k and 3k rpm and only in 3rd. My biggest fear right now is :::queue horror music::: DETONATION. I'll be looking into making a "det can" like danz suggested very soon.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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I would go 8-10 BTDC base timing until tuned on 91+ octane.

Who did the piston mods for the FJT rods?

Forget the FMU, not needed with a good tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Engine braking is good for a brand new motor too, creates a lot of negative cylinder pressure to not only mate the rings to the cylinder walls but to scrape crap off that gets by them before they get a chance to fully seat.
Yea, i've been doing quite a bit of engine braking. Glad to see i wasn't alone on the theory!

I would go 8-10 BTDC base timing until tuned on 91+ octane.

Who did the piston mods for the FJT rods?

Forget the FMU, not needed with a good tuner.
8-10 BTDC? before total dead center? (sorry still a n00b)

I first took the pistons to a motorcycle machine shop near my work. They told me they've done that kind of job before but didn't feel like doing it again (maybe cause it's been so long or it's such a tedious process?) so they sent them to JE to cut the wrist pins and grind out a groove for the c-clips. They came out PERFECT! Beveled edge on the wrist pins and all! Sure, I could have just bought different pistons/rods and been done with it but where's the fun in that? :p
 

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Classic Man
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props to you for getting the P29s on the forged rods, i hope the lands on the pistons are up to the task of being worked harder than a stock rod can put up with!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
props to you for getting the P29s on the forged rods, i hope the lands on the pistons are up to the task of being worked harder than a stock rod can put up with!
Thank you! I don't understand what you mean by the ringlands being up to the task?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So far so good...checked the timing today, was already 10 degrees retarded at the crank pully! 100 miles down.

I forgot to mention the AEM adjustable cam gear...:uh:

any suggestions on retarding that? (w/ oem head gasket)
 

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Classic Man
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P29's dont have the most stout ring lands. i just cant quite see why forged rods would be necessary since its almost impossible to build a D with more torque than a stock rod can handle.

for instance, 176wtq on my last turbo build, stock rods, beat on the engine for a year and a half. its going to be my 13:1 NA motor (P29's as well) when i get off my lazy ass.




sounds like the break in is going well. feel free to take it past 3000rpm. just get a det can on that slut to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I completely agree with not needing forged rods in a NA z6. But when I was in the market looking for rods the FJRs where only ~80 more (through the pre-order sale) than what it would have cost me to find the stock z6 rods....and they are just sooo DAMN SEXY! :)

I'll get pics up asap....
 
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