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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Before I start, I'd like to thank you for taking your time to read this post. Have been searching around and have found what I have decided to start up on with my d16z6 turbo'd set up:

Keep in mind that this set up might be driven as a daily and competed at occasional Auto X events.

Power Goals:
~300whp <---Edited
~250+ torque?

Turbo set up:
-Go-autoworks M-intercooler
-Go-autoworks 2.5" Hot and Cold side piping
-Eldebrock 15031 D16 Turbo manifold <---Edited
-Go-autoworks custom A/C Compatible 2.5" or 3" Downpipe?
-Tial 50mm BOV
-Garrett T3 Super 60 Turbo

Engine:
-D16Z6 Head, P&P - Possibly done by Go-Autoworks or someone local.
-Delta 272-2 regrind or bisimoto Stage 2.4 cam?
-Super Tech valve springs
-Stock retainers and keepers
-Ported D16Y8 IM
-Stock B series Throttle body
-ID 1000cc injector
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Bisi. Cam gear
-ARP head stud
-FJ-rods and 75.5 vitaras
-Stock Sleeves <---Edited
-All gaskets/seals/bearings from Honda.
-Ported Oil pump.

Fuel:
-Walboro 255 intank fuel pump
-SS braided fuel line from tank to fuel rail
-Inline fuel pump <--necessary?
-Inline fuel filter

Drivetrain:
B000 D16z6 Transmission
-Mfactory LSD
-4.5 or 4.7 final gear <---Necessary? Or run stock final?
-Stock Axles?

Tune:
Hondata S300

Misc questions:
-I want to keep A/C and run a cast manifold, is the power goal possible? If not, what is more ideal?
-I'm looking at .035" Piston to wall clearance?
-Should I run internal waste gate and run a electronic boost controller?
-Go with 2.5" or 3" Down pipe?

Sorry most of these questions are asking for you knowledge and spoon feeding. Shine some light on any shady questions.

Thanks once again d-series.org.
 

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Yes, Stock will do with the right tune, and looks right on the P2W.

Here is what I sent to the Machinist

Torque Specs:
Rod Bolts torqued at 25ft lbs. Then to 43ft lbs.
Main Cap Bolts torqued at 18ft lbs then 38ft lbs.

Bearing Clearances:
Rod Clearance: 0.0016-19
Main Clearance 1,2,4,5,: 0.0015-18
*Main Clearance 3: 0.0016-19
** Main thing is that Main 3 is a smidge looser. A smidge. And nothing is over .0020. Rather be a bit under. Not too much though.

Bore/Hone Dimensions:
Piston to Wall Clearance: .0035-40
May you please bore each cylinder to a specific piston and label them (1,2,3,4 with arrows pointing to flywheel side, unless you can leave them in)

Cylinder Wall Preparation:
Hone Cylinders with 280 grit, followed by a light 380 grit Brush with a 60 degree cross-hatch per Honda’s instructions.

Pin Fit:
Rod: 0.0006
Piston: 0.0006
*** I didn't find many articles on this, what clearance do you use/recommend?

Piston Ring Gaps:
Top Compression Ring Gap - 0.019
Bottom Compression Ring Gap - 0.021
Oil Rail Gap - 0.025
 

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At that power level that thing is going to be a handful. On the street you aren't going to be able to use all of it, and for AutoX I think it's way too much.

If you want an autoX car you are honestly starting in the wrong spot. Start with the suspension and work your way to the engine. At that power level I'm going to say ... too much for autoX, you are going to be asking far to much of the front tires to be pulling you along and steering at that power level. From the competitive builds I've seen 300 is pushing it on the power side of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
At that power level that thing is going to be a handful. On the street you aren't going to be able to use all of it, and for AutoX I think it's way too much.

If you want an autoX car you are honestly starting in the wrong spot. Start with the suspension and work your way to the engine. At that power level I'm going to say ... too much for autoX, you are going to be asking far to much of the front tires to be pulling you along and steering at that power level. From the competitive builds I've seen 300 is pushing it on the power side of things.
All of this is going into a del sol. Suspension work wise I have gotten down pat, one thing I should of went with was Hardrace bushing instead of Energy suspension :bash: . Power goal, would you say, 300-350whp would be better for the streets and auto X? I want a turbo that has good mid to high range that will boost at least around 4500rpm. Could always lower the boost to compensate for auto X, and have two separate tunes.
 

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dude 250whp auto x sol would be sick with a "down pat" suspension. You can always get a 57 trim turbo, pretty much start seeing boost by 3000rpm and will go well with your head. Perfect turbo for daily/weekend warrior IMO.

and if you dont like the power, then you can always boost more. The Beauty of turbo
 

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^ t3/t4 57trim sees boost by 3k rpm? That's hard to believe, do you have personal experience with it? What size are the housings? I'm interested because I may upgrade to one later down the road...

I thought 235whp/159ftlbs was a handful in my old car at AutoX, you're going overkill imo. I made 300hp/275tq on this last setup and didn't have traction till 3rd.

Stock sleeves will be fine. As for the head do you plan on revving high? If you're happy with 300hp the stock head will be OK. Instead of the money spent on building the head, buy yourself a nice set of r-comps/suspension
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can you give me more in depth knowledge on this "57 trim turbo" please? If you could add a link which would greatly help. Talked with a tuner and I could have him do two tunes, low boost and high boost so each could be used for different events. I do not know how often I will be able to AutoX since it's pretty rare to see one happening here, only heard of 2 events somewhat local.

sde780, what were your tire specs when AutoXing with the 300hp/275tq set up?
I plan to set rev limit at 8000rpm, probably will not even see that high if power isn't made at that range during tuning sessions. As for suspension, will 450 front and 450 rear on eibach gc on koni yellow hold?
 

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For AutoX honestly the smaller the turbo the better (to a point). I don't plan on getting over 300 whp for my set up. If you get a small turbo you end up with a nice smooth power band that feels and looks more like N/A. My current setup I have ZERO feeling of turbo lag and see full boost by 3k. My turbo is a little small and chokes out up top but for autoX there's a lot of up and down in RPM so optimizing low and mid-range power is really the key. Check out my build thread to see what mah tiny turbo can do (td04h-13c ... it's about the size of a small t25).

Your suspension should be fine for a sometimes autoX car. I'm running much higher spring rates but it's all a trade off between comfort and performance (670F/560R). Since you won't be autoxing all that much I'd say that you're suspension is probably fine ... but also remember that in AutoX tires = horsepower (sort of). Lemme 'splain ... the grip threshold of your tires is really the currency of an autox course. The more power you have the more grip you need (simple right? ... not so much). Because our cars are FWD the car has to use the grip of the front tire to do two things ... turn and move. The more power you put down the less grip there is for turning the car (ohai ... my name is understeer, how can I fuck with your run today). With 300 whp that's asking a lot of the tires. You will want to invest in some slicks or you will not be able to keep the power going to the ground for the life of you, street tires just don't have enough grip, and your car will push HARD coming through the corners. I know this from personal experience, I usually run at least one event on my street tires (granted they're not the grippiest thing out there) just because it's cold or raining and I don't want to deal with changing the tires. Last time I did that I was making about 170 whp/ 150 wtq and those tires did not want to hold the pavement. I know that once my current tires wear out I'm going to have to upgrade to big boy sizes to keep it manageable at my power level once I'm done with the engine. Currently running 205s all around ... going to have to find some new wheels so I can run something more the 255 - 275 range.
 

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For your power goals I don't advice sleeving the block, should invest the money elsewhere. Get a really good oil cooling system instead if that isn't in your plans already. Just like everybody else is saying 350whp is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much for autox
 

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300-350whp is too much for autox and you want a lower spool IMO. Greddy kits are nice autox setups because the 15g spools around 2500-3000 and will make about 250whp. darton sleeves on a greddy kit or even for your 350whp goal is unnecessary.
 

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sde780, what were your tire specs when AutoXing with the 300hp/275tq set up?
I plan to set rev limit at 8000rpm, probably will not even see that high if power isn't made at that range during tuning sessions. As for suspension, will 450 front and 450 rear on eibach gc on koni yellow hold?
I was on new Yokohama S.Drives, they're a decently sticky street tire. I'm very happy with my 350f/350r spring rates on Progress coilovers, for DD/occasional auto-x duty it's not a very harsh ride.
 

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Why an oil cooling system? Is it necessary?
For autox ... Probably not the courses are generaly pretty short.


Okay, so such high HP is unnecessary. Two tunes, one for how boost for auto x and other for street.

Any more inputs on what type of turbo? Sizing/spool time? Will search after this post.

Thanks.
Just one tune should suffice. The great thing about these engines is you can put down some awesome numbers and still have good fuel economy. For turbo I would suggest a small t3 or a t25 ... Something in that size range. Seriously though take a look at my build, and 90civichillclimber's and the "snot rocket" (sorry bro forgot your name, someone help me out here). You can see the great power curves you can achieve with the smallerframe turbos.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
For AutoX honestly the smaller the turbo the better (to a point). I don't plan on getting over 300 whp for my set up. If you get a small turbo you end up with a nice smooth power band that feels and looks more like N/A. My current setup I have ZERO feeling of turbo lag and see full boost by 3k. My turbo is a little small and chokes out up top but for autoX there's a lot of up and down in RPM so optimizing low and mid-range power is really the key. Check out my build thread to see what mah tiny turbo can do (td04h-13c ... it's about the size of a small t25).

Your suspension should be fine for a sometimes autoX car. I'm running much higher spring rates but it's all a trade off between comfort and performance (670F/560R). Since you won't be autoxing all that much I'd say that you're suspension is probably fine ... but also remember that in AutoX tires = horsepower (sort of). Lemme 'splain ... the grip threshold of your tires is really the currency of an autox course. The more power you have the more grip you need (simple right? ... not so much). Because our cars are FWD the car has to use the grip of the front tire to do two things ... turn and move. The more power you put down the less grip there is for turning the car (ohai ... my name is understeer, how can I fuck with your run today). With 300 whp that's asking a lot of the tires. You will want to invest in some slicks or you will not be able to keep the power going to the ground for the life of you, street tires just don't have enough grip, and your car will push HARD coming through the corners. I know this from personal experience, I usually run at least one event on my street tires (granted they're not the grippiest thing out there) just because it's cold or raining and I don't want to deal with changing the tires. Last time I did that I was making about 170 whp/ 150 wtq and those tires did not want to hold the pavement. I know that once my current tires wear out I'm going to have to upgrade to big boy sizes to keep it manageable at my power level once I'm done with the engine. Currently running 205s all around ... going to have to find some new wheels so I can run something more the 255 - 275 range.
Somehow I overlooked past this post.. WOW! @ 225 to 275 tire widths! Funny to say, I started my build to be a hardparker and show/meet car. Now I want something that is more useful into the investment I am building. Shaved bay looks hideous now LOL..But hell I am racking up parts to finish the build and I am already in two years into my build. :pinch: I want this sucker DONE! But money is so tight at times. Think about it, I really enjoy this site. Thanks guys.
 

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^i know your pain about wanting it done ive been sitting on a motor and turbo psrts for over a year its killing me i just got the last few things ordered so hopefully ill be able to get it in and boosted by july for the end of the season. this sounds promising tho ill be watching. i agee with 300 being overkill i woulx say 250 max to be enjoable in corners
 

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Somehow I overlooked past this post.. WOW! @ 225 to 275 tire widths! Funny to say, I started my build to be a hardparker and show/meet car. Now I want something that is more useful into the investment I am building. Shaved bay looks hideous now LOL..But hell I am racking up parts to finish the build and I am already in two years into my build. :pinch: I want this sucker DONE! But money is so tight at times. Think about it, I really enjoy this site. Thanks guys.
Yeah to be competitive, even on just the local level, I need some BIG slicks. I'll probably still be running my 195 street tires, just because I really like my GSR wheels, but I have this sinking feeling that I'll probably need to get wider tires for the street too. Hopefully it won't get too unruly as long as I drive carefully, but with a car that is built to flog and practically begs for it ... I don't know how well I'll be able to control myself.
 

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Before I start, I'd like to thank you for taking your time to read this post. Have been searching around and have found what I have decided to start up on with my d16z6 turbo'd set up:

Keep in mind that this set up might be driven as a daily and competed at occasional Auto X events.

Power Goals:
~300-350whp <---Edited
~250+ torque?
Here is a link to a dyno Graph of an a/c Street X kit. It would be ideal for what your trying to do as far as fit, power goals, power ban etc.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/378704_271238142928954_161592270560209_827153_1231604353_n.jpg

I doubt you'll need 300+whp, but the capability is there and readily available. (sub 300, the Standard Street Kit would do great...
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-76804679891414_2192_18295476 )



Much of your list is "overkill" in my opinion. Some (not all) of the things I'd wee out would be:

Secondary fuel pump at that level is not needed. An in tank 340 +ID1000s will be plenty. An upgrade to the -6AN feed line is a plus.

For your goal, I wouldnt sleeve the block or port a Z6 pump. Id focus on a solid tune.

Management...Hondata S300
 
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