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Discussion Starter #1
anyone have this problem? using a t on the back of the oil sensor thingy? i think its cause of the t thats making my oil light coming on and off which scars me so i dont drive it anyone got an idea? i have no oil pressure sensor or anything everything is brand new and built in the car before on my stock motor it never had a oil light problem could the sensor just be lose?
 

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anyone have this problem? using a t on the back of the oil sensor thingy? i think its cause of the t thats making my oil light coming on and off which scars me so i dont drive it anyone got an idea? i have no oil pressure sensor or anything everything is brand new and built in the car before on my stock motor it never had a oil light problem could the sensor just be lose?
using a t on the back of the oil sensor thingy?
is this a question?

i have no oil pressure sensor
if your using a tee, whats plugged into the back of the tee then?

could the sensor just be lose?
wait so you do have a sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sorry about my question haha lemme make it more understanding im running a t in between the oil pressure sensor so i can t a oil line too my turbo get it get it? so the oil sensors at the end and the oil feed is at one end and i want to know if the t thingy do anything to the sensor or my sensor could be faulty or electrical problem i just oil changed and i checked all oil its perfectly enough
 

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Discussion Starter #5
dam i know i had it running before on my stock d16 it never had an issue till now i just put a fresh motor in and its having a problem maybe it could be my wire connections loose? maybe huh let me go check it out since its nto rainign right now
 

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Discussion Starter #6
dam my car got so much problems left too right i got the sensor too work better now i overflowed the motor with too much oil haha i only put 4 quarts some reason it was over the maximum bar i just test drove my car and it died at 3K rpm i was in 4th gear gasing it when it hit 3k i heard a sound and check engine light came on and car died. After alittle bit the car started again and ran really low rpm dam so much problems
 

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Discussion Starter #8
haha thanks man i think i should go get my chipped p28 and put it back too stock is there a way to delete the tune? on the ecu? without getting it unchipped? sorry im noobie when it comes to tuning. this is still my first time ever with a turbo built tuned honda.
 

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I think you need to read more first. If you over filled you car with oil u should be boosting. Also next time use periods.
Now to your problem, it could be the wire. Check to make sure its tight. Check your oil lebel after the car has stay for awhile. And get an oil pressure gauge. If ever thing is tight and you have the right amount of oil it could be a bad/going out oil pump. The oil pressure gauge will help you find out.

+ forgot about the ecu question.
First is the car tuned or base map? Then to return to stock ecu your need to put stock injectors back in and remove the turbo so you won't boost. Removing the chip you don't have to do but you need to open the ecu and remove the jump that makes the ecu read the chip. I thik its j1 or j12 I don't remeber but check google for diy p28 chipping and you can READ some information about how it works
 

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Discussion Starter #12
wow guys major problem so i went by my tuner today and found out alot of things about my car. First off i got a oil pressure gauge installed and my car doesnt build pressure! They are suggesting i pull out the whole motor again and redo the bottom end. Remember everything is new on this car brand new oem honda oil pump too my oil psi is only 20 it doesnt even build up with rev i think the rods are too tight. i have too take it off and redo it
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i know huh shit i didnt plastic gauge my bearings now i gotta take it all apart and hope nothings wrong with it i torqued the rods to 43 pounds maybe its too tight which makes me dont get any pressure? what else could be my problem i got a brand new pump on it
 

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always remember when you drain oil only most of it comes out. its viscosity level varries on type of oil. but its "simple measure twice cut once" apply this to everything
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i had 5-30 oil in my car conventional oil im sure that cant be the problem oh wells just gotta take it out too see hope nothings messed up so far
 

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why would you build a motor and not check your clearances? that is the life of your motor right there, they have to be within a certain spec so that they will have enough oil pressure, loose bearing are not good because thats too much space to create proper oil pressure.

did you even check your ring gaps?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the rod bearings were the only things i didnt do shit i regret i think i did it too tight cause the motor was really hard to turn after it was assembled but i was in a rush and wasnt thinking straight you know. The ring gaps i got that good i have nrp rings and i checked the gap it was okay so i didnt file it or anything it was like .016 and .018 alittle tighter than looser. imma tear down the motor and see whats up;[
 

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i know huh shit i didnt plastic gauge my bearings now i gotta take it all apart and hope nothings wrong with it i torqued the rods to 43 pounds maybe its too tight which makes me dont get any pressure? what else could be my problem i got a brand new pump on it
DUDE.......GRAMMAR AND PUNCTUATION.....USE IT!!!!!:pinch::pinch::pinch::pinch::pinch::pinch:

You probably shouldnt be building a motor, if you arent going to plastiguage, or even attempt to figure out your oil clearances... especially if your guessing on how tight to TQ your rods.

You need to pull your motor, take it to a machine shop, pay them to fix any problems and re-assemble it correctly.
 

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the rod bearings were the only things i didnt do shit i regret i think i did it too tight cause the motor was really hard to turn after it was assembled but i was in a rush and wasnt thinking straight you know. The ring gaps i got that good i have nrp rings and i checked the gap it was okay so i didnt file it or anything it was like .016 and .018 alittle tighter than looser. imma tear down the motor and see whats up;[
one thing i ALWAYS do before installing rings is either:
A. read throught he papers that come with the rings for ring gaps
or
B. call the company and see what they recommend for ring gaps depending on power goals and either NA or Boost set ups since they need different ring gaps. (boost needs bigger ring gaps for the added pressure)

also a fresh motor, even with the cylinders lubed up some isnt exactly "easy" to turn, its still got plenty of resistance on it.

and not to be a dick, but i do agree with a5hatch, take it to the machine shop, have them fix it and assemble it correctly.
 
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