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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i wanna boost my d16z6 to a max of no more then 500hp around 450whp would be good i got a setup i wanna do went to a shop and he suggested me the setup then found out the shop is just a tell you what u wanna hear shop

my build so far is
port and polished head
3 angle valve job
1 size over on valves
crower springs retainers and valves with valve guides
crower stage 2 forced induction cam
and cam gear

darton sleeved block with a .2 over on the bore so it would i believe make it a 1.8.
arias pistons and rings, eagle rods, acl bearings

750 cc injectors
70mm throttle body port matched to a skunk2 manifold
walbaro 255lph fuel pump
turbonetics gt-k500
aem fuel rail and regulator

of course ecu and a good tune
does that even sound right to get anywhere near 450hp?
 

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first built turbo honda? if so you might wanna start smaller..sounds like a nice size wallet to..you can also reach your goal and save some money as well..its a good set up for sure and it will put you in the 400's but idt you really need to be worrying about a sleeved block to reach your goals..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
first built turbo honda? if so you might wanna start smaller..sounds like a nice size wallet to..you can also reach your goal and save some money as well..its a good set up for sure and it will put you in the 400's but idt you really need to be worrying about a sleeved block to reach your goals..
the shop i went to told me to sleeve it do to the amount the sleeves can take. plus i wanna use it as a daily driver
 

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sleeving really wouldnt be a bad thing. its starting to get closer to the limits really, and you have a stronger cylinder wall, i also suggest a closed deck sleeve instead of open deck if you do sleeve it.

i would get bigger injectors honestly. i would go up to 1000cc injectors, also are you wanting to do this on pump gas or race gas? if you are going pump then i would suggest a bosch 044 inline pump aswell as the walbro in tank. the walbro is only really good to about 500hp and pushing it to its limits will really shorten its life.

the head sounds great, the bigger valves, ports and everything will free up plenty of power.

i still say to stay away from ACL bearings and go with OEM or Clevite bearings (im not getting into it again, read other threads iv posted in). the eagle rods will hold the power fine. i would also go with a good intake manifold that is port matched to the throttle body and the head for the best flow possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i'm planning on having 2 tunes a high and low boost tune. mostly i wanna be running the car around 300-350whp on everyday drives and when i run into those hard to beat cars have a set boost and tune that would get me above 400-450whp and thats it dont want the car any stronger then that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sleeving really wouldnt be a bad thing. its starting to get closer to the limits really, and you have a stronger cylinder wall, i also suggest a closed deck sleeve instead of open deck if you do sleeve it.

i would get bigger injectors honestly. i would go up to 1000cc injectors, also are you wanting to do this on pump gas or race gas? if you are going pump then i would suggest a bosch 044 inline pump aswell as the walbro in tank. the walbro is only really good to about 500hp and pushing it to its limits will really shorten its life.

the head sounds great, the bigger valves, ports and everything will free up plenty of power.

i still say to stay away from ACL bearings and go with OEM or Clevite bearings (im not getting into it again, read other threads iv posted in). the eagle rods will hold the power fine. i would also go with a good intake manifold that is port matched to the throttle body and the head for the best flow possible.

mostly i wanna do it on pump gas. i was gonna use a skunk 2 intake manifold and have it port matched with the throttle body and head. for the sleeving i am using the closed deck ones from darton. and on the fuel pump i'm not planning on exceding the 500hp i wanna stay close to or below 500hp so i thinkg walboro would do just fine. and on the bearings what about kings bearings?
 

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mostly i wanna do it on pump gas. i was gonna use a skunk 2 intake manifold and have it port matched with the throttle body and head. for the sleeving i am using the closed deck ones from darton. and on the fuel pump i'm not planning on exceding the 500hp i wanna stay close to or below 500hp so i thinkg walboro would do just fine. and on the bearings what about kings bearings?
iv heard mix matched reviews on kings really. i havent looked into them that far, i mainly just have hear-say info on them.

iv just turned into a lubrication and clearance nut and i know for a fact that the Clevite bearings are worth every penny.

also, i really hope you are planning on running proper oil. i suggest 20w-50 oil for any turbo car trying to reach numbers over 300, and atleast a 40 weight oil on any turbo car under 300. if you want to learn more about turbo/engine lubrication look here. http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/145070-turbo-lubrication-information.html

if you really arent planning on going past 500 then your single walbro will be fine. i also would look into a good FPR and liquid filled gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the oil info didnt really know bout it that much. oh and on the FPR i was gonna use a AEM one with AEM fuel rail.
 

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i would get bigger injectors honestly. i would go up to 1000cc injectors, also are you wanting to do this on pump gas or race gas? if you are going pump then i would suggest a bosch 044 inline pump aswell as the walbro in tank. the walbro is only really good to about 500hp and pushing it to its limits will really shorten its life.
Listen to this. To get close to 450-500 you will need bigger injectors. Hit the 1000cc's.

Sleeving isnt a NECESSITY per-say, But If i had the money to sleeve my block I would. Im only at 300WHP. I would recommend a block guard at the least. I ended up buying one after I blew my HG on the dyno, sleeves flexed a little much and blew the seal on the gasket..

New Block guard in, new HG, thing is bullet proof on 22psi.

Rest of the build isnt looking too bad. :bigok:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Listen to this. To get close to 450-500 you will need bigger injectors. Hit the 1000cc's.

Sleeving isnt a NECESSITY per-say, But If i had the money to sleeve my block I would. Im only at 300WHP. I would recommend a block guard at the least. I ended up buying one after I blew my HG on the dyno, sleeves flexed a little much and blew the seal on the gasket..

New Block guard in, new HG, thing is bullet proof on 22psi.

Rest of the build isnt looking too bad. :bigok:
thats what i heard but i also did some digging at the turbodseries forum and alot of people are running less then 1000cc and are getting around 430whp if not more. i know a person who's putting out 600whp and he's running 1000cc's so mines like 150hp less and with a good tune i'm sure to get atleast 420whp i dont have a specific number for whp i just wanna run 350 whp everyday and have another tune for a little over 400 it could be even just 410whp as long as its at 400 thats all
 

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im a fan of overbuilding. plus with smaller injectors they will be working harder/over what they are designed to do and will wear prematurely (start sticking open, etc..). a 1000cc injector wont work as hard as a 750cc injector on the same power, and with the technology we have now, there are many of good programs and injectors out there that are much easier to tune.

also, if you build a motor that can handle 400hp, and you are pushing 400-450 then you are walking that line of disaster... i dont like disaster lol. hell i dont even like pushing eagle rods to 500hp honestly... but thats my personal opinion on it.

also, without proper fuel then you will run too lean and thats never a good thing... especially with all the work you are planning on doing to it, why skimp out on some injectors? i personally recommend the Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc bosch injector (exact same injector as the Injector Dynamic 1000cc injector, but cheaper).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
im a fan of overbuilding. plus with smaller injectors they will be working harder/over what they are designed to do and will wear prematurely (start sticking open, etc..). a 1000cc injector wont work as hard as a 750cc injector on the same power, and with the technology we have now, there are many of good programs and injectors out there that are much easier to tune.

also, if you build a motor that can handle 400hp, and you are pushing 400-450 then you are walking that line of disaster... i dont like disaster lol. hell i dont even like pushing eagle rods to 500hp honestly... but thats my personal opinion on it.

also, without proper fuel then you will run too lean and thats never a good thing... especially with all the work you are planning on doing to it, why skimp out on some injectors? i personally recommend the Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc bosch injector (exact same injector as the Injector Dynamic 1000cc injector, but cheaper).
gotcha but why not just go another 100 cc like say 850 why jump all the way to 1000? the only reason i dont want 1000cc's cause of the gas issue that rises with them gonna have to get a 20 gallon fuel cell to run those. oh and about rods which ones would be good in that area? i had diff ones in mind but the shop i went to told me to use eagle ones i was gonna use crower rods.
 

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crower is a good product, as are eagles. many of people run eagle rods running 600hp with no issue so yes they will work perfectly fine for what you are doing... im just OCD about shit haha. and you will be perfectly fine with 1000cc injectors on a 10-12 gallon fuel cell. i have plenty of friends getting 30+ mpg with 1000cc injectors with a stock tank running over 400hp aslong as they drive it out of boost.. aka daily driving.

and in all actuality, the Injector Dynamic 1000cc and Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc injectors (same injectors) true flow is 900cc's at 30psi of fuel pressure i believe it is. even though you have to redo your injector clips to the bosch style clips, they dont require a resistor box like most of ther 1000cc injectors that are still low impiedance (sp) and require one.

also, idk if bisimoto has them developed or not (they are on their site but just out of stock so idk..), but they have h beam rods that are good to 750hp and are cheaper than the eagles.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well thats nice to know. wonder how much mpg they getting in boost. thats why i want a 20 gallon tank just in case i run boost once in a while i dont have to stop more then i would with a 12
 

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it really just depends on your driving habbits and your tune really man. no matter what size injectors you have, when you are pushing A LOT more fuel in boost to be able to compensate for the air being forced into your motor.
 

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well thats nice to know. wonder how much mpg they getting in boost. thats why i want a 20 gallon tank just in case i run boost once in a while i dont have to stop more then i would with a 12
Unless you are boosting ALL DAY, EVERY DAY, you wont need to worry about burning through SIGNIFICANTLY MORE fuel, to the point where you need a larger tank.

If you are worried about losing a few mpgs, dont build your car, period.

Like was said people are still getting 30MPG+ running 3,4,500whp.

you will be fine with a 1000cc injector. plus it gives you wiggle room if you want more, or wanna switch to E85.

If you get the bare minumum cc for what you want, your going to be pushing those injectors a lot harder. Its not like the price difference for a 1000cc is much different that a 550cc either!

Its your money, but as I say, Its better to have it and NOT NEED IT, than to NEED IT, and NOT HAVE IT
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Unless you are boosting ALL DAY, EVERY DAY, you wont need to worry about burning through SIGNIFICANTLY MORE fuel, to the point where you need a larger tank.

If you are worried about losing a few mpgs, dont build your car, period.

Like was said people are still getting 30MPG+ running 3,4,500whp.

you will be fine with a 1000cc injector. plus it gives you wiggle room if you want more, or wanna switch to E85.

If you get the bare minumum cc for what you want, your going to be pushing those injectors a lot harder. Its not like the price difference for a 1000cc is much different that a 550cc either!

Its your money, but as I say, Its better to have it and NOT NEED IT, than to NEED IT, and NOT HAVE IT
i'm not worried bout mpg on it i'm worried bout taking it on a long drive and running out of gas lol mpg dont bother me but lets say i take a spin on it for like couple hours and have fun on it i dont wanna end up filling up the gas tank 2 times just cause its a small tank.
 

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i'm not worried bout mpg on it i'm worried bout taking it on a long drive and running out of gas lol mpg dont bother me but lets say i take a spin on it for like couple hours and have fun on it i dont wanna end up filling up the gas tank 2 times just cause its a small tank.
If you can burn through an entire tank of gas,2 times, in 2 hrs....Something is wrong...

I dont know where you are getting the idea your going to burn so much fuel. It simply isnt going to happen like you think. you are going to retain basically the same interval for filling up on a general basis.

Dont know what else to tell ya, besides read up and do your research....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you can burn through an entire tank of gas,2 times, in 2 hrs....Something is wrong...

I dont know where you are getting the idea your going to burn so much fuel. It simply isnt going to happen like you think. you are going to retain basically the same interval for filling up on a general basis.

Dont know what else to tell ya, besides read up and do your research....
i did alot of digging lol. but none for how much gas is gonna be used up. this guy i know has 1000cc's on his car and he says at full boost he literally see that fuel gauge drop.... thats the one thing that bothers me if i'm at full boost how long on 1000cc can i stay at full boost till i'm empty if its for more then 50 miles then i'm good with 12 gallon but if its under 50 then theres something i'm not getting.
 

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i did alot of digging lol. but none for how much gas is gonna be used up. this guy i know has 1000cc's on his car and he says at full boost he literally see that fuel gauge drop.... thats the one thing that bothers me if i'm at full boost how long on 1000cc can i stay at full boost till i'm empty if its for more then 50 miles then i'm good with 12 gallon but if its under 50 then theres something i'm not getting.
He's probably seeing the guage drop because of the fuel sloshing to the back of the tank. My car does the same thing with 650cc's. But my guage will level back out near where it was if not exactly the same place as before once the speed and movement of the car even out.

are you honestly planning on doing FULL BOOST, FULL RPM for 50 miles?
You would use a significant amount of fuel doing that... But then again, that is not anywhere near regular driving conditions for our cars, built like this.

Not to mention HOW HOT your turbo and engine would be...

If your worried about running out of fuel in 50 miles, you need to reconsider what you want out of your build...
 
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