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Discussion Starter #101
Ok. So new cap, rotor and ICM later I got her running better. Also, a nice base setup from Xenocron tuning helped :).

Put the timing cover on too.

I did set up the wideband the the correft ecu pinout btw. I double checked it.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Shes finally on the road
136832

Gotta get that dumptube fast lol.
Little interior love too. Old......
136833

New....
136834

Running a bit rich. Need to figure out how to get it up a bit. I the 10.5 to 12.1 afr range. Still breaking in though anyway so not pushing. Less than 100 miles still. Still on a 7lb gate cut anyway.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Need an air filter and dump pipe.

That turbo oil line needs to be seriously rerouted, and have some heat shielding around it where it goes near the manifold.

That is a fire hazard waiting to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Fear not my friends. This photo came from a screen shot of a video I recorded when I was first starting her up. After I saw this. I lowered the cut to 5lbs and drove in like a newborn, only to get an inspection and soft mileage. This car just about never goes out and wont until I get her to Xenocron ( waiting for my appmmt ). Having a hard time getting a filter on, its squeezed in there real tight, but I will find a way. I did not think about the oil line part..... I will wrap it asap!! I had looking pretty on the mind ahead of practical and function, silly move. It is really hard to get the line in there, especially since the turbo is set reversed than most people do bc it will have AC.

Should I have the dump out to atmosphere or re-circ into downpipe?

Thoughts on the 1000cc injectors I have. Since I dont have the spec slips, will Xenocron be able to figure out deadtimes???

Is there a con to getting a 4bar map or should I get smaller at first? I will install it for the tune as I know I'll need that and injectors to get any real power out.

Is there anything that Im leaving out?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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screamer pipes are easier. just dump it low and away from the oil pan

something like this for the feed line
Fire Sleeve & Tape Kit

as for a turbo filter, you could always run another piece of pipe to get it out into the open area there.

4 bar will be fine. why buy something twice
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Ok, getting dumptube on Friday. Installing Hondata 4 bar and 1000cc injectors. Got the wire fire sleeve for the oil feed line. Then Xenocron will be tuning her up on Friday!!! Will have to get a new clutch line made because the stock one is right in front of the turbo and in the way of being able to get a pipe in there for a filter.
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Discussion Starter #109
Ok. So hours later and lots of money heres where we are.

Dizzy wouldnt time, replaced it.
FIC 1200's, spent more.
Hondata 4 bar ( broke one of the screws )
Had to buy a slim fan to try and get a pipe with filter on ( didnt bc have to move clutch line )
Dumptube done
Ecu would control boost controller. Had to take it in shop and work on it.
Boost controller then wouldnt click, had to replace it.
Tune

Here's where I need some brain power boys:
Started dropping oil pressure when it hit 6800rpms. Enough for it to drop out of vtec.
No oil leaks, checked oil its clean. Did it twice so we stopped.

I'm going to cut open oil filter and check its clean. Ill also check the vtec solenoid and make sure its clean. What else if not those???

Help.....
 

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Edit: Welcome to mod life :)

Oil pan not flat? Dented in the middle, causing oil pump pickup restriction?

Where on the engine are you measuring oil pressure? Is this through a gauge? Can you verify with an actual mechanical gauge? Ive seen weird stuff happen on occasion from cheap electrical sending units.

You say its kicking out of VTEC, so it could be a real loss of pressure. Best to verify with a mechanical gauge at the stock sending unit passage. Do you see a significant drop in pressure when VTEC engages?
 

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Discussion Starter #111
I checked the oil pan, it is mint and flat and good. The oil pressure gauge is on a sandwich plate behind the filter. Its a glowshift gauge. We verified the drop on the datalogs from the dyno runs. 2nd to last he said he noticed the dip on the gauge. So on the following/final run, we watched it on the graph and we saw the pressure dip from around 80 to 60 ish and we could hear/see the power band go flat and stop pulling at around 6800.. we didnt go to 7500 to not do any damage and play it safe. Only got it to 199.4 whp and only got to 6 lbs. Oh yes, need to order much stiffer springs for the gate. If I could post a vid you'd hear it just stop pulling at 6800 after it was kicking in hard. You can hear the crossover at 5500 and then it goes flat. Could a bad vtec solenoid be an issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Ok, so I tried to make a little room to get a pipe and filter on by bending the line and yep, I pinched the line for the slave cylinder. I'm going to just have to replace the whole line with a stainless steel one all the way from the master. Seems like the easiest way to find a solution, the small pipe ( pipe B ) is hard to find.
 

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you can choose to buy a braided repalcement that goes from clutch master to clutch slave. Removes the factory rubber section, helps with clutch feel.

Be aware, the cheaply offered ones on ebay have a decent chunk of them hard to keep leak-free from poor quality control. SO if you grab one, grab 2 or 3. Or just grab a good branded one.

If you make your own, find the fittings you need for two hardlines and a brake hose from the partsstore that fits. you can recreate your own for cheap. Then it would be like factory, hard off the master, soft section for engine/trans movement, and hardline to the slave
 
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