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Discussion Starter #81
I have a hi-flow racing cat. Will it really get much louder with straight pipe vs cat? My exhaust does have quite a large resonator for ultimate sleeper mode. You can see it half way back.
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Heres a few updates!! She's running but clearly rich, I can smell the gas!
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Wideband is not connected yet btw. Ill do that when its tunable, so I dont burn it out for no reason...... sorry for the pic, forgot to close hood completely and put foglight cover back on. Was a bit excited. But she idles perfect!!
 

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Ok, video of those air horns blowing or it didn't happen............ Nice setup!
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Hey guys. Its been a while. Hope your all staying healthy and safe. Got a few updates now that I have some time. Got the wideband installed ( plx ), got a new ecu ( s300 v3 ) and boost control solenoid ( installed unit in ecu also ) so I can control boost from hondata. Two questions:

1. Where can I find the pin I need to add into the A11 plug? The tip that goes into the plug? Can I order somewhere?
2. Need some tuning tips, anyone have any? Initial run seems super lean... it starts perfect at 14.7, then it starts going up and eventually the screen goes all the way and just changes to AFR, wont even read a number....
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For ECU pins, I just bought chopped plugs off eBay. I have an A, B, and D plug with pins and about 8” of wire. I used a few when adding knock, VTEC, and swapping from 3 pin IACV.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Ok. Problems beginning. Afr seems to be reading all the way lean. Started giving an error code after a couple days, #41 o2 sensor heater and now #15 ICM. Now the car wont turnover... pulled the plugs to see whats going on..... do they look bad??? They smell pretty gassed and look fouled. Doesnt that happen if your running rich vs lean??

I went back to the original map I had for the s300 that had no chk lights, but still getting the same two codes and no turn over.
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Discussion Starter #87 (Edited)
I went and got the BKR7E's gapped to .28.... no spark. Still getting the code 15 and code 41. Could my ICM have died just like that? It ran just fine. then went back to try and tune and nothing. That's why I thought maybe something was wrong with the plugs. Help please!
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Discussion Starter #89
I have the original Honda Shop manual. I started with the IG fuse, all good. Of course.... my multi meter is NOWHERE to be found. I did check the spark from plug wire to plug...nada. also checked from wire to the cap.....nada. no sparks.

It does crank btw, just no spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Ok, got her up and running again and a kewl multimeter now. It seems like I can get this car to idle better, my AF starts at around 15 then keeps going up as the car runs and goes all the way up to 20 then I just get a view that says AIR LEAN, with all the LED lights lit up ( PLX wideband ). How can I get this to come down? where do I need to tune some fuel in ( S300 )? Should the o2 option be in open loop or closed loop wideband target?

Also, is there another way to set the timing if I dont have the lower timing belt cover on or do I just need to put it back on?
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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What kind of base map did you load initially when you went to start the engine? Was there some kind of template you chose?

Best way to correct AFR when solely at idle and cruise during warm up is to use the Engine Coolant Temp correction area. You'll see a table with engine coolant temperature ranges, and values below those coolant temperatures. The correction table cell the ECU is operating in during operation will be colored, and as the engine warms up it will blend and begin to color the warmer ECT sections. The values under the coolant temp values in the ECT correction table are either IN ADDITION or SUBTRACTION to the fuel cell values found in the primary fuel tables. This allows you to add/subtract fuel from the entire fuel table as coolant temperature changes, without having to adjust the main table every single time the coolant temperature changes.

Rule of thumb is you need more fuel when cold, and you need to pull fuel when warm. But it sounds like you need to add fuel to the warmer ECT ranges, to get wideband to read back in a normal range.

Use open loop for now, unless you've fed the wideband 0-5V output into the appropriate ECU input, and configured Hondata to interpret the AFR appropriately, just stay open loop for now. Sounds like this is new to you, and if so, it is a LOT to learn right up front, but if you don't have plans on getting it tuned right away and/or have time to burn, and you want to take chances with some street tuning, read the SManager users/help guide top to bottom, then watch videos on other people tuning with SManager to see what they are doing. In either case, reading that help/users guide top to bottom is always a good thing.

But I suggest trying to get the AFR stable with the ECT correction table, then get it to the tuner as soon as possible, and STAY out of boost until then to protect the engine!

Put the timing cover back on for timing if you didn't have timing mark provisions to align things without it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #95
What kind of base map did you load initially when you went to start the engine? Was there some kind of template you chose?

Best way to correct AFR when solely at idle and cruise during warm up is to use the Engine Coolant Temp correction area. You'll see a table with engine coolant temperature ranges, and values below those coolant temperatures. The correction table cell the ECU is operating in during operation will be colored, and as the engine warms up it will blend and begin to color the warmer ECT sections. The values under the coolant temp values in the ECT correction table are either IN ADDITION or SUBTRACTION to the fuel cell values found in the primary fuel tables. This allows you to add/subtract fuel from the entire fuel table as coolant temperature changes, without having to adjust the main table every single time the coolant temperature changes.

Rule of thumb is you need more fuel when cold, and you need to pull fuel when warm. But it sounds like you need to add fuel to the warmer ECT ranges, to get wideband to read back in a normal range.

Use open loop for now, unless you've fed the wideband 0-5V output into the appropriate ECU input, and configured Hondata to interpret the AFR appropriately, just stay open loop for now. Sounds like this is new to you, and if so, it is a LOT to learn right up front, but if you don't have plans on getting it tuned right away and/or have time to burn, and you want to take chances with some street tuning, read the SManager users/help guide top to bottom, then watch videos on other people tuning with SManager to see what they are doing. In either case, reading that help/users guide top to bottom is always a good thing.

But I suggest trying to get the AFR stable with the ECT correction table, then get it to the tuner as soon as possible, and STAY out of boost until then to protect the engine!

Put the timing cover back on for timing if you didn't have timing mark provisions to align things without it :)
Thank You! I will try some of this tomm after I go to bed with my hondata like robgoof suggested. I unfortunately do have time to burn thanks to the virus. I will put the timing cover back on.

I started with the stock p28 basemap.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Thank You! I will try some of this tomm after I go to bed with my hondata like robgoof suggested. I unfortunately do have time to burn thanks to the virus. I will put the timing cover back on.

I started with the stock p28 basemap.
Perfect place to start.

Also, what size injectors do you have? If they are aftermarket, did they come with a dead time slip? There are values you need to program into the ECU to account for changes in vehicle voltage that affect injector on time.

Without those values correctly set, your fuelling can be all over the place. Say you tune the car in daytime, all primary loads off, floating point voltage will be X. Then at night, turn your headlights and blower motor on, voltage becomes Y and your now lean as fuck lol. It does happen. Make sure dead times are correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I kept the stock 240cc injectors. I figured it would be best to start a base on the stock. I do have the 1000cc injectors that I ordered but I do not have deadtime slips or specs. Just checked the package. Now Im paranoid and feel like ordering legit injectors. Those were ebay.
 

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Boosted 1995 Civic DX Hatchback
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What's up DSO crew. I am just about to start my rebuilding project for my Z6 and just thought I'd post it up for anyone interested. I'll be asking for some opinions ( which I have read tons of on DSO and many other places ) but the point of this forum is to share with you guys and ask this group so I will. I will cal this my DSO group turbo Z6 build.

Im starting with pulling my stock motor out ( think I bent a valve missing third right before I decided this ) so this is perfect timing. I messed up and didnt think about photos so missing some.

I decided to go all out while I'm at it. I have had a GSR brake swap laying around with stainless lines and also booster/master cylinder. Seems like the perfect time to try a wire tuck so I think I'm going to give it a shot too.

I'll update with the work so far.

Goals:350-500 whp

Here are my main questions:
1. Injector sizes ( 1000cc ) is the plan. Someone mentioned on of our DSO sponsors/member who does injectors??

2. It's going to be an ebay turbo, anyone know a good kit that retains AC or a way to make one compatible? I have seen many, looking for input from anyone who has actually found/used one.

3. ECU, should I just go with a hondata 300 v3 or are there actually better options ( I will not be tuning, so best for a tuner to work with )

4. Wideband O2? Brand?

5. Do I really need a new fuel rail and FPR ( I probably with get this anyway )? What about fuel filter?

5. Is an oil catch can a must?

6. Adjustable Cam gear necessary? Best tunable brand?

7. When you guys have put your motors back together, do you put back that bracket that connects the ITM to the block?

8. Oil pump? I dont believe the one I'm pulling is a factory Honda. Is any replacement ok? Honda factory only? What about ACL Race oil pump?

9. What about water pump options?????

10. I'm sure I will have many more. Thanks to all who have made it this far down the list and I appreciate it. I only ask to please speak about what YOU have actually used and your opinions on their performance. I have been reading about these builds for over 15+ yrs, just like many of you but dont know many ppl with actual real life experience using parts so thats why I asking, not because I haven't done my own research.

Thanks DSO
Be very wary of an ebay turbo kit. I spent $900 on one thinking it was a great buy and then had to immediately spend $800 on a new turbo and $250 on a new wastegate due to the build quality of the ones in the kit. Spend the money once instead of twice or three times.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Be very wary of an ebay turbo kit. I spent $900 on one thinking it was a great buy and then had to immediately spend $800 on a new turbo and $250 on a new wastegate due to the build quality of the ones in the kit. Spend the money once instead of twice or three times.
Sadly, way late for that. I meant to start as a cheap build then got sucked into spending more and more!!! I will however, plan on working backwords and quality turbo part purchases.
 

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Sadly, way late for that. I meant to start as a cheap build then got sucked into spending more and more!!! I will however, plan on working backwords and quality turbo part purchases.
We did the same thing. I thought i could get what i wanted done for about $8000 and now i have a gray money pit sitting in my garage that i still cant drive yet. Hope to put the finishing touches on mine this weekend or next
 
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